I have contacted the seller asking for a partial refund. I will see how that goes and keep you guys updated about that.
That's just one example, there are other defective pixels. I'm still waiting for a reply, expecting one in a day or two as I sent the question over the weekend. Will post back whether I get the partial refund or not.
Totally agree on factory calibration. How do you get the calibration to stick? As I've written before, mine resets each time the monitor goes to sleep or is turned off. And the only way to get back to calibrated profile is to turn the Color Bypass on and off (so that's a lot of annoying button/remote pressing multiple times a day). What are your steps to calibrating this (or any) monitor? The Picture tab settings you use? I got a calibrator just after buying this panel, so any info would help a lot! :)
Which tab in the OSD menu settings are you talking about not sticking? Because the monitor settings actually stick through sleep and a hard cold switch off at the wall. I'm not sure why it doesn't stick for you, I take it you're on the latest firmware version?
If you have a colorimeter, it's always better to calibrate yourself. As every panel is different and the colours can't all be the same on every panel, but they are similar. Hence why using other people's calibrated profile may look better at times, or even make it worse depending on the panel.
Can you tell me the brand and model of your colorimeter? Because if it is supported by ArgyII CMS then you can use DisplayCAL (also known as dispcalGUI) then it is recommended that you use that tool. As ArgyII CMS is open source with many features and functionality that is way better than the default software that comes with your colorimeter.
As for the settings for it, it's subjective. Personally I like color accurate results that you see in real life and photography. So therefore the whitepoint would be 6500K, gamma of 2.2 and 120 CD/m^2. Though 120 CD/m^2 is pretty dim in a bright room, so I generally use closer to 200 CD/m^2. 120 CD/m^2 is pretty good for indoors and low light conditions.
I guess I could post the settings I use for DisplayCAL, but it's pretty self-explanatory. But feel free to ask if you need them or any other pointers.
I have a X-Rite ColorMunki Display. I used the bundled software, so maybe that's a problem. During calibration, the UHD400 turns off for a moment, while my Dell U2713HM doesn't do that. I'll try DisplayCAL tomorrow, as it seems my device is supported. Can you post the Picture tab OSD settings you use? (and Color too, if those in the photo aren't final).
I recommend you read that, as it covers everything you need to know before calibrating.
The settings I used can be found in my mini review. But I do not recommend you use them, if you're calibrating yourself using your own colorimeter. As the whitepoint accuracy is different from panel to panel. However I do recommend that you turn up your saturation to 60 before you calibrate and leaving your gamma at 2.2. I tested it and it seems to give more gamut coverage. The other settings do not matter much, i.e. hue, contrast, brightness is all subjective to people to people.
Also when you're installing the ArgyII CMS USB drivers, you will need to disable driver enforcement signing before you boot into Windows. A lot of people don't do that and their Colorimeter will not work with DisplayCAL.
Does this forum have a DisplayCAL or dispcalGUI tutorial? If not maybe I can make one up that might help introduce people into using the software.
Great news! AccessoriesWhole gave me a partial refund of the difference between the non pixel perfect listing and the pixel perfect listing which is $73USD.
Overall I'm very happy with the support they offered, they were very fast with their response and processed the refund straight away.
Great news! After recalibrating with DisplayCAL, my UHD400 doesn't reset to factory calibration after rebooting, etc. I'll probably mess with calibration now a bit more, but overall it's finally usable for me! So thank you again wavezero for the writeup on DisplayCAL ^_^b
No worries, though I been a bit busy to do a tutorial. Plus, I feel I would butcher it when it comes to explaining the details, compared to the excellent write-up by the DisplayCAL's team on their site. Very polish and easy to navigate site if you ask me. All I can do is give what settings I use and that's it. Besides as you see, the program is pretty self-explanatory, even with the advance option turned on.
All the best with tampering with the settings, I notice calibration quality is still quite good with faster speeds. So I wouldn't worry too much. Personally I use medium speed.
Those of you who have purchased one of these recently. Is your panel aligned properly with the bezel or is there a extra thick black bar on the top and left sides of the panel? I have a friend interested in buying one and this was one of the things that made me return mine. I'm not paying $600 for a monitor that isn't even in the center of the bezel.
Awesome thanks. Myself and a few others in this thread had ghetto oriented panels way back when these first became available. Looks like it will be OK to purchase now.
I recently purchased the UHD400 Pixel Perfect from NewEgg as a replacement to the AMH A409U that was returned due to two clusters of dead pixels. This monitor seems to be almost perfect except I'm noticing that it has these faint vertical lines everywhere on the screen. It is very visible on plain or continuous flat spaces with one solid color. What I'm trying to determine is this a bad monitor or is this what every one of theirs looks like? I have attached a picture to let you know what I'm talking about.
Edit: It is quite hard to see from that picture but it is much more visible in person and when you view the full resolution of the picture you can tell.
This is 100% brightness. I've tried using other settings to see if they can go away. I read that sometimes bad connections with your cords can cause this so I tried multiple brands display port cords with the same results.
Hey wavezero, thanks for the calibration work you did - as a photographer looking for a new monitor yours is a textbook example of what I'm looking for in a review!
A request: Could you confirm the srgb and adobergb gamut percentages? In your initial review they seem quite low - does 10-bit or anything like that help out? or at a lower brightness?
The reason I ask is that I need a minimum of 100% srgb for my photo work and the price and size are right for the uhd400, I might be kidding myself but I wish your numbers weren't true!
First off, sorry I messed up with some parts of the review. Like with the calibration numbers, I got mixed up a bit with the first and second one I did. As when I wrote the mini review it was like 2am or so (wasn't free til later in the night).
The sRGB gamut is actually 98.3% and AdobeRGB is 74.7% not 68.0%. I believe the Panel is definitely 100% sRGB, but you are gonna have to be tweaking a lot of the settings and doing a number of runs with your colorimeter. I personally don't have time to mess with the settings too much as each calibration run takes about 45mins to do.
The brightness should not affect colour gamut coverage at all, possibly gamut voliume but nothing too serious. 120cd/m^2 is pretty low brightness, I used to run that on my monitors for video production and some photography work in my spare time. I know a lot of photographers are going to yell at me for saying this, but brightness of the panel does not affect colour accuracy, especially if you cannot see your monitor in a bright lit environment. It's really personal choice if you ask me. The whole 120cd/m^2 is just meant to make your monitor look closer to a printed paper's brightness in a somewhat lit room. Who really cares, as long as the panel is colour accurate.
I hope that helps, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I'm gonna recalibrate after 1 or 2 month of usage. Maybe I might hit the 100% sRGB mark this time around.
You legend, Thanks so much for getting back to me.
It's a toss up for me at the moment between the 400 and the Iiyama Prolite X4071UHSU-B1: The prolite has 100% sRGB + 88% adobeRGB from reviews, however it'll cost about $900AUD to ship from the UK to Australia as opposed to the cheaper UHD400 from Korea. Decisions decisions.
If any other options pop out at you let me know, I've been doing nothing but researching panels for the past 2 days and I think I need to go outside.
Quality control on these is absolutely horrendous. 3 of them now all with glaring issues. This one does not turn off or go into standby while the other 2 did.
I'm going to tell my friend to just skip Free sync for now and get a 4K TV as a stop gap.
Edit: For those curious these won't go below 35hz-60hz for free sync when modded (stock 40-60hz).
Edit 2: This things Freesync does not work properly. Something funky about it. Side by side with a UHD490 and it's pretty apparent.
Edit 3: Yeah guys for those of you interested in buying these for Freesync I would hold off. It passes the stationary windmill demo but as soon as there is any panning of the camera or movement in any game there is micro tearing going on. I tried it side by side with a UHD490 which was buttery smooth with Freesync on where as this UHD400 looked like just v-sync off with hard to notice "mini tearing."
