Token's lvl1 blog- edit -- Token's rantings

Dogo in question is the lighter brown mutt that is a mommy figure for the pup behind her.

I have no idea why she freaks out with those noises and its been worse as she ages.

A neighbor two houses down had a smoke alarm low battery chirp and we had to close all windows and doors. It was super faint with the door open and she was shaking and looking for hiding spots.

Ok that note, anyone now of an audio setup i can use on the TV to cut off any sound at that range? I basically avoid gun tuber channels now.

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Failure to replace the battery should be punishable by lifelong imprisonment! I don’t understand how people can live like this.

As for the audio, I have no idea. You’d have to check the original range first to see which direction to go.

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Yeah I have a lot of audio visual receiver (AVR) homework to do. Crossing my fingers a decently priced AVR that had some Gucci equalizer feature to cut out specific frequencies.

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@PhaseLockedLoop

Prepping a two Raks one cup build. Was initially going to have discrete boxes but liked the idea of just one.

Much bigger case to hold a meshtastic flashed radio and its filter, and a meshcore radio.

Sorting out coax runs, wiring etc

If i hang it “portrait” style i can get the 8-10 inches gap between antennas. That or one of the antennas will have a coax run and be up higher.

More mesh parts

And holiday cheer

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@PhaseLockedLoop bumped into something on Amazon better than the super cheep shark fin antennas that are supposed to replace OEM FM/AM antennas-

These cheesy shark fin warning lights that are solar powered.

For $23 I get a magnetically attached shark fin shell with solar panel? Not bad to then try hacking it up, remove the light stuff, put a regulator in for the panel and a RAK kit that has small PCB type antennas (915 and BT).

https://www.amazon.com/Warning-Antenna-Magnetic-Waterproof-Replacement/dp/B08YXMN5WY/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=0I2nO&content-id=amzn1.sym.4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631%3Aamzn1.symc.5a16118f-86f0-44cd-8e3e-6c5f82df43d0&pf_rd_p=4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631&pf_rd_r=5GQRC0QZQAV4XC2RC0AA&pd_rd_wg=Ae6GS&pd_rd_r=37370123-5ad3-4ab1-a239-b9b3500ec2f0&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1

No big deal if it doesn’t come out working and just have to regroup and make something better.

Solar panel does look way too small though…

Probably better off giving this a shot:

As much as I’d like to do a more permanent install, its a big pre for me to be easily removed for updates, self contained (power, mounting etc).

Worth trying. We need bigger solar panels in the north

Am I doing it right?

https://forum.level1techs.com/t/the-lounge-2026-edition-aka-there-is-no-memory-in-my-wallet-edition/243649/433?u=phaselockedloop

My new off grid G2 pack

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Jebus is this powering a e-bake or something?!

Wishing BLE mesh was a thing (an well sorted out turn-key thing)

Was sniffing around for such a thing because @PhaseLockedLoop I’m likely making my roof-mast mounted meshcore a repeater and therefore would have to run a meshcore client in the house for actual bluetooth connection with the app. Not a big deal except I would then have limited range within the house. The roof mast client solution was awesome, because of angle of attack (roof, ceiling) I had BT coverage everywhere.

So if mesh isn’t a sorted thing, I guess I can do a client build with a big fat wifi antenna to get the most out of that BLE signal.

@PhaseLockedLoop i keep changing layout, antennas etc so always waiting in parts but I’m nearing assembly of the “two mesh one cup” build.

Decided to double stack the two rak4631s as I didn’t have room to put two of the mounting kits side by side. Will likely regret this and should have just double stacked them in their own plexi mount kits and use Velcro to stack them. Upgraded the included single battery tray to a dual. Bottom flashed to latest meshtastic, top to latest meshcore.

Solar panels have this cheesy labels on them so popped them off then added grommets to be tiny spacers between the panel and utility box in hopes the panel acts like a solar shield and that little air pocket and flow insulates the internals in the ute box.

Some of that 3m marine goop on the back bolts and under the solar panel and now curing

Question for you, should i parallel the solar input on both boards to the battery pack or just have one board charge the batteries?

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One mppt should charge both batteries. Ideally you should just have one mppt… one battery pack… then go to the boards. Why not get an adafruit bq board

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Copy that, thanks.

Just working with what i got, but that looks good.

Meshtastic rak4631 is up and running, test is good.

Meshcore repeater setup i just cant get working or im being way too impatient with advert being received by my client. But i think its the firmware because the board won’t even power with the battery input, only over USB it does and im able to configure it over USB. Had me sh$tting bricks i borked something on the board but now that i flashed meshcore client its up on battery input and good comms to my other client.

Id call it a day and put it on the roof as-is but i really feel a meshcore repeater up there would greatly increase my reliability with some local contacts i have.

How the hardware currently looks

With the grommets inserted into the four edge holes i got that tiny gap I wanted

Airframes cavity filter, two 18650 batteries, two RAK4631s stacked on each other. Meshtastic client bottom, meshcore repeater top.

Skinny antenna temporary meshtastic antenna, once on roof its getting attached to a short run of coax to a biggum antenna. The thick boy is meshcore.

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What solar panel is that

We use a different filter from wehooper it’s much smaller and much nicer… a small cavity filter

And I just learn of this now? Dang. These airframes ones are huge. I can’t find them in the googles, have a link?

So I have this ancient Anker wifi repeater/bridge thing that I had to find some obscure forum post hosting it’s user manual in order to look into how to make it host a printer on my network.

It kind-of sorta worked. Linux would work great on it, but windows would constantly drop it.

Finally broke down and made a pi print server.

Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W

This guide: Raspberry Pi Print Server: Setup a Network Printer - Pi My Life Up

Expressed in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdwqQjDjMzU

Only exception, the printer does have an ethernet port (just in a room with no jacks) so when you get to the CUPS screen adding the printer, it doesn’t flow like the guide and vid does (USB only printer). With the printer’s USB plugged into the Pi it still presented as a network printer and I needed to use the network bullet to add it (circled in blue)

Successful print from my Windows PC, TBD if the added printer stays working after reboots, hibernates etc. Will boot up the nix box eventually and see how that works, and test from the phone as well.

Also need to punch a hole in the firewall to let that print server’s IP and relevant port(s) into a VLAN for a work laptop to have access to it.

Overall pretty stoked. This is my second attempt at a pi print server and it went way more smoothly (maybe cause I’m not drunk?)

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Might have to throw more hardware in yet again… Seems RAK4631s flashed with meshcore only work when powered over usb.

Im debating if repeater is important enough to me vs just running the client up on the rooftop…

Looking at this for the step up from 18650s to usb-c 5v.

I brought both T-Echos with me (one meshtastic and one meshcore) driving around town and yeah, meshcore was about 80% delivery rate of what I sent from different locations, meshtastic was 0%- I got nothing over meshtastic.