I can appreciate those parameters. I’ve tried both of those scenarios / builds in the past.
But I do mind dust…. But dust has not been an issue in these past few builds.
My enemy is heat and noise, so quiet and cool were the goal
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I still have that case in a box, along with 4 white (BMW) LM10 mice, 4 red, and the headsets, just never got around to that build, …one day
Thermaltake had some great mice more than a decade ago
The P1, 3, 5, 6 cases were awesome as well
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then focus on that and forget about dust/positive air pressure and youll be set
ThermalTake is not what they used to be but they still put out some solid products. I’m assuming you have the white version of the GT given the 4 white mouses. Back in the day enthusiasts chose the Level 10 GT as a favourite for modding because there was so much to work with. In my case (ar-ar) the mods are mild, comprising of an extra internal RAID cage, an extra fan in the top right side panel (dampened with of all things, pink rubber erasers) and some LEDs inserted in the handle under the red transparent racing stripe. The effect is reminiscent of the tail lights of vehicles at night on a highway over a distance and I find it in keeping with the original theme of the GT.
As for the argument of risking dust in your build I can only say that unless you’re in an extremely dust laden area you’re fine. I’m going to state something that may not be all that popular, but in my well over two decades of PC building it has been my experience that open case cooling beats positive pressure. In fact, even with positive pressure, a closed case will become an enclosure that keeps dust trapped in the components over time. An open enclosure such as yours actually maximizes circulation and helps to keep dust contamination down to a minimum. I can only say to those who disagree that they should get a P3 and test it for themselves. (I got mine for less than the price of a decent test bench and these units also make for terrific test benches.) I’m not suggesting that positive pressure is a bad thing but even with positive pressure intake is required and over time dust will get drawn into the case and the sticky dust will find a new home regardless of how many filters are employed. Environment is also a huge factor.
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I would like to add that the presence of a high qualify ceiling fan make open cases work much better.
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All things considered, I think the current build meets exceeds what I was trying to achieve in quiet and cool.
I don’t think I will be able to effectively air cool the next iteration, this latest build required a lot of configuration and planning
Planning on doing something EPYC? (Just curious.)
If / when I do the next gen release of Epyc (above the current Zen) above the uber 9684x, if I can’t make /optimize the cpu coolers, then I may consider a hybrid cooling solution. May also consider a peltier build I’ve been experimenting with.
I have also considered a a custom air cooler, that is reasonable and feasable.
For liquid cooling, not my fav, but I have an idea in mind if I am forced to resort to it.
Some of this is also influenced by the GPU designs (dual or quad 5090), as they affect space and other factors.
work in progress.
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remember that peltier is about 20% efficient. There is also a serial vs parallel issue. In order to move a lot of heat, you need a lot of surface area, ie cold plates, and hot plates.
There is not enough surface area on the cpu to use a peltier cooler to cool it, you first have to move the heat elsewhere. At that point it is hot, so dissipate it with a simple water radiator. Now the liquid is warm. At this point you can get a second CPU block and a cpu air cooler (of the same type), put the peltier in the middle (maybe add a second pump in series), and the output water is cool.
pump >> cpu block on cpu >> radiator >> cpu block on peltier with air cooler >> pump
It is often easier to just use water cooling, and stick the radiator in front of an air conditioner where the exit air is usually around 55F. I would not recommend direct contact of the air conditioner fluid to the cpu block as that usually results in condensation, and having to buy a new computer.
see linus tech tips for an example on how to do it badly.
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Hopefully we will be on zen8 when they make a new CPU socket. ie 9xx8.
Word on the street is that after the current Epyc (Turin), AMD is going to change sockets again for their flagship products.
It makes sense, AMD is using ~1,400 less pins than Intel’s flagship socket with SP5.
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Interesting!
I haven’t seen a RAM disk that survives reboots since my Amiga days with the Amiga recoverable Ramdisk setup 
try also tech ingredients on youtube. namely
and
they are pretty good
Sir, LOL, I think I’ll somehow slog along with what I have, suffering quietly of course, despite having AC throughout the house 
Grazie!!!
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Completed prototyping the heatsink, they performed
as intended, reducing temps a further 2-3C from prior design changes and tweaks
and put in place
Happy PC
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So next on the to do list is to replace the other cheesy lightweight short small heatsinks for the Mosfet / voltage regulators etc that came with the board. This time I was able to find them halfway across the globe and specific to this board:
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@JayVenturi, Did you create the new heatsinks, or did you purchase them? Why are you replacing the lightweight short heatsinks?
I read this thread and I think: Wow. It’s very impressive what a person can do once they set their mind to it, and do not have a cat.
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That desk gives me anxiety
@JayVenturi I wanna reiterate that your posts are appreciated on this forum
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