What’s good everyone? I am having issues with my low budget Ryzen system. I want it to work right, but it’s being a butt.
So what’s wrong? First the system will random reset like someone hit the reset button, except my case does not have one, and when this happens usually I have to unplug it and let the caps drain before it will turn back on. I have tried replacing mobo, cpu, drives, psus, all but the ram so far.
Second issue is when I want to try to run a monitor off of the cpu directly. They motherboard and CPU support such multi-monitor setups, but I can’t get the system to work when I install the graphics drivers. When I install them it splits the monitor into 2 sections, cutting off both so you only get half the desktop visible and the bottom of one is a blurry mess. Then randomly it will go to a flat solid color. Blocking anything from being displayed. This is fixed by removing the graphics drivers. Also the Vega Graphics onboard do not show up in the device manager, but they did at one point before. But that was a install of windows ago. I have tried different monitors and it seems to be an issue with the drivers.
Those are my Ryzen issues now here is what is in my system
Specs
Ryzen 3 2200g
Asus Strix B350-f
Patriot DDR4 2800mhz 8GB
Asus Phoenix GTX 1060 3GB
Sandisk SSD Plus 120GB
WD blue 250GB HDD
Lite-on Blu-ray
Dell 1100w Silver PSU
Alienware Area-51 ALX
Windows 10
Latest UEFI 4011
Latest Windows Update 1804
Latest chipset drivers 18.10
Ram is at 1.2, which is what the XMP recommends. I have tried adding a little bit more voltage, and did not help. Right now it’s a 3.85Ghz @1.4v with extreme LLC but it was doing this crashing thing even at stock speeds and volts.
check bios update… then i would reccomend for kicks… unplug, remove battery, and reset bios. Then try again all in stock. Another question what are you doing when it crashes? surfing? gaming? editing? also check win10 multi processor see if it runs on one or all of them.
I would say drop the LLC a little, could be a voltage issue under load spikes. Maybe the GPU or some component on the mobo doesn’t like the peak voltage. Also if that doesn’t work, look at dropping the memory frequency to default for the ryzen chipset. Most memory are binned for standard intel chips and even with my 3600MHz memory with Samsung B-die of which works best on ryzen, still only manages 3000MHz with lose timings though that’s partially down to the board I use (Also Asus)
Either way, I would look at those two issues as they are very common points for random freezing and restarts on this platform.
This is no reason that I can see. So far when my system crashes the fans usually max out. But, no certain thing causes it. During games, during reboots, just checking my email.
RAM is still an issue it seems, i can only run my non-RGB Trident Z at 2800 15-15-15-35 on my 2700X + Asrock Taichi x470 combo, but it is a (non AMD specific, dual rank) 3000 kit.
If everything works at stock (like, proper bios defaults) then you have an overclock or other bios settings related issue.
if it fails after loading BIOS defaults, check your heatsink/power connections and if they’re all good you have an RMA situation to figure out.
If i was to take a blind guess i would say it is the ram… not sure how many slots you got for ram on that board, but swap the sticks of ram into the other slots… and make sure they are in the proper way for your dual channel.
Have you disabled the iGPU in the bios?
It’s one thing to deal with amd and nvidia drivers sharing a hardrive full of games but if this is a new system I would go with disabling the igpu and a fresh install.
One one system I have (Kavari) the default for mem is 1.5v but the ram needs 1.55 to be stable. It said 1.55 on the little sticker.
Can’t adjust with mouse and I found out months later I had to use the “+” key to adjust the voltage
At first I would just plug in the drive you want the OS on. Then after everything is good plug in the 250gb and blue ray later and let Win install the drivers. Also check the 250gb if it is just plain old SATA instead of SATA 3 when you plug it back in, after everything is good of course.
Hope this helps and congrats on the new build
I have tried disabling the igpu, removing the dedicated GPU, moving the ram around to different slots, running just one dimm at a time, running at all stock speeds, including having my ram at 2133mhz. I have replaced every part in the system but the ram and gpu. I tried using a titanium rated psu, using the wall outlet and not my surge guard. Only thing I haven’t tired really was removing the front panel cables to see if that is somehow causing it.
That could be a heat issue?
usually if your PC just randomly craps out and resets it is caused by heat.
Remember you’re not just running a CPU, but also a GPU.
All heat measurements are done as if you’re running a CPU and a seperate GPU, but the CPU he knows whats up,
if he detects that GPU+CPU combined are above XYZ degress he’ll reset.
Basically your cpu can be i dunno what be running at 60 degrees C, but if you GPU is running 40 degrees C then it’ll shut down.
Id drop the CPU overclock, and just OC the GPU .
Running a IGPU, the cpu cycles is not your problem anyways.
I had sort of the same problem on the 8750(I think it is called), normally it weas rock steady OC’ed, but if i played firefall? again it is years ago.
I risked random resets, appearently there was something in taht game which caused either CPU, or GPU to heat up, and cause a “safety” reset.
In case it is not heat, what kind of PSU are you using? it is not some looooooow voltage one right? like 120-250V give and take some,
That can cause some havoc as well, if you’re straining your CPU.
If what you’ve done includes resetting to BIOS defaults (it’s unclear if you have done this, and whether you have returned CPU clock speed back to normal until this is sorted), and you’ve tried running both (or all) sticks of RAM one by one and the problem is still happening i’d do an RMA as soon as you can.
There’s little point banging your head against the wall trying to figure out why hardware doesn’t work when it is broken…
Basically if it doesn’t work at out of the box settings, and you’ve swapped ram around, isolated other hardware, swapped PSU out, etc. either the CPU or motherboard is either broken or unfit for sale.
I’d RMA the board first, as i suspect it is possible a dodgy capacitor or something like that on the board and perhaps speed-shift is causing the machine to die when there’s a change in power load.
Maybe turn power management off and run high performance in windows and see if problem is less? But at this point you’re just trying to diagnose how new hardware is broken (not just that it IS broken) and that’s not really your problem. If it’s broken, RMA it.
I have returned the motherboard and cpu already. This is number 2 for both. I have not returned the ram yet, but I might. I just cleared the CMOS and loaded defaults for the mobo. Still did the crashing thing. Going to RMA the Dimms soon, but I have tried using one at a time in different slots. Nothing seems to affect the crashes.