I have been doing some research and the x470 chipsets which all had fans and the regular x570 chipsets with fans all run much hotter than the CPUs - apparently vendors do not consider 75-80 excessive for these chipsets.
Well this is basically fine.
69C shouldn’t be a problem. 
He’s very lucky on that board. I had to pull the plug to prevent my x570 sensor going triple digit. With some airflow I get 65-75°C in normal operation. I will get a 40mm fan soon because passively cooled x570 is just bad design.
I’d rather take a shitty fan you can replace rather than passive cooling that doesn’t work and has no mounting brackets for a fan.
The interesting thing was that even when they replaced thermal pads with best in class thermal pads and improved aiflow, they could only get a 2-3 degree impovement. I am definitely going to keep an eye on my chipset temps especially when pushing the GPU since it sits right over the chipset.
Now that I know I will not do any major changes for the chipset temps at this time, I have to finish stabilizing the hardware and load Win 10. Then I will do several benchmarks and tests.
I have to disagree on this one. My x570 Asus Dark Hero is passively cooled and it sits pretty reliably in the low 50c’s Last time I looked it was 52c. When it’s under a load it gets up to 57c, but that’s about it. I suspect the size of the heat sink has something to do with it. I also have set my fans to always run even on my 3090 at around 74% speed. As it’s so quiet at that speed i can’t hear it anyway. So my case always has a decent airflow going… But the motherboard has no dedicated chipset fan.
I finally have my system running in an open HB Evo case. I turned on the front fans (remarkably quiet) and seem to be getting a little cooling effect.
As @zenstrata suggested, I removed the plastic decorative cover on my chipset heatsink. Not sure what the thinking is with ASUS on this - it gets covered by a slot-one GPU so no apparent reason for it. I t should probably be marked as “remove after shipping and oogling for a few minutes”.
The chipset seems to be cooler now with the front case fans and the heatsink cover removed. I say “seems” because every time I reboot, I get a different temperature. I am not sure how accurate the ASUS sensors are. HWInfo has the chipset as 59 degrees as I type this, lower than the ASUS BIOS screen was showing.
I have installed Win10, checked for BIOS updates (I already have 0402), added the Wifi driver, updated the Win chipset driver. Installed Radeon software.
I downloaded Unigine\Superposition Benchmark and ran a few - a little disappointing since I have only a 6700 XT, but it will have to do for a while.
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I have two 3GB spinning drives in the two hot-swap bays since last night. I had to turn off “allow hot-swap” for these SATA ports in order to get the machine to boot. I can’t remember how this is supposed to work for true hot swap, but I will be fine with two cold-swap bays for now. The bays have a really nice tool-less mechanism and I will be taking advantage of that for many SATA drives I have collected over the years.
The Coolemaster HAF HB Evo case is a great case for taking to another location such as a LAN party it is a nice cube shape, and it is stackable. I do not find it to be a great test bench case, but is still a decent test bench case. Swapping components in and out is just not as easy as I want it to be, but it is better than most cases. I have to fish out lots of dropped screws, even thumb screws because of the tight angles in some areas. It does have great air flow, and a neat two story organization.
Is it me or is it really frustrating trying to build in an all-black case with all-black components, and all-black screws? I need multiple bight lights AND a flashlight.
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That’s a really nice build, however I’m a bit puzzled by those chipset temperatures. I had the MSI X570 Tomahawk with my 5950x and I’ve never seen them rise above 60C. I had 5x SATA HDD of various capacities, 2x NVMe SSDs, 1 x SATA SSDs, 1 X Blu-ray drive, 1x Soundblaster Z PCI Card along with a 3080 FTW3 Ultra running on 64 GB of 3200 CL16 RAM.
I used an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 cooler which I suppose has a VRM fan to cool things down.
I then transferred my 5950x to an ITX build (same cooler, RAM, 2x NVME SSDS, and 3080) on the MSI B550i Gaming Edge and even then my chipset never goes above 55C.
I would’ve thought the X570s boards are a bit better in that regard.
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Currently HWInfo is showing the chipset at 55C. I may be the thermal pad is settling in.
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Progress has plateaued a bit - still taking care of my friend at her house about 21 hours a day. But my system is on her dining room table so I am getting some things done.
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The Chipset temps are ok and stable. After some intense Civ 5 turns the temp was 60C. I think it is a combination of it settling in to the heat pad(s) and the removing of the heatsink cover.
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I have a Blu-Ray drive arriving today - the old one I was going to use would ID the disk but never could read it. I think it is a victim of a move - should have been more careful and removed it from the system it was in. Will use this newer tech LG drive with MakeMKV and libredrive firmware, so thats good
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I have looked at cases and was disappointed in the the storage options for the Fractal Torrent. That case is designed to give air support to liquid cooling I think. I do want to go Fractal though so after researching their current cases I settled on a Fractal Design Define 7 in white with light tempered glass. I like the size and the plentiful storage options. I looked into the optical drive strangeness and decided I can make it work. Plus I got a good deal at $139 and in stock! Kind of a 180 on the black color scheme but without all the RGB I think it will look good and highlight the motherboard making the black components easier to see. I already have a white Define R6 and love it. I may do some case-swapping before it is all over, and could even leave this build in the HB Evo. The Define 7 arrives in a couple of days.
So meanwhile more benchmarking and a little Civ 5.
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My LG Blu-Ray burner arrived and I have installed it.
I have flashed it with a lower version firmware to allow it to run in LibreDrive mode.
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I know it’s been a while, but i’m guessing since you haven’t posted anymore in this thread you must have gotten the pc done? Perhaps put up some pics in the Official Post your PC guts thread!
A couple things, if you want better airflow you can add another fan to the back, and one to the top to improve airflow.
If the top fan is too thick, and won’t fit on the inside of the case due to the size of your heat sink, you can always mount it on the top like I did. I basically cut a hole in the screen underneath the side of the fan shroud to hide it, then ran the wire down through the hole and plugged it into the motherboard with an extension wire.
This picture shows how the fan wire is ran and the way I mounted mine on the outside. I had to buy a 3rd party 200mm fan grill.
I suggest having the fan set to exhaust. I tried the other way too, pushing air into the case from the top, but this did not work well and created hot-spots where air was not flowing properly and heat built up much more than it should have. Exhaust is definitely the way to go with the top mounted 200mm fan. Noctua makes a good 200mm fan, it’s not super cheap though, about 25$ as I recall. Ouch - nevermind, it looks like the prices have gone up on fans too, it’s 36$ now for the fan =/
The noctua fan fits just fine with the existing screw mount points. Even though coolermaster tried putting them in odd positions to make it difficult, Noctua was smart and has those extra bump outs on their fan shroud so it will work anyway with their fan. You will need to pick up 4 longer bolts and nuts from your local hardware store if you go with the top-mounted variation like I did.
Thanks I have been putting off moving the machine to my Fractal 7 case, wavering on it.
I have bought another SSD but the heat sink is so thick I can’t put it under the Creator heatsink and I can’t secure it with the Asus SSD clip either. Will post more on these items soon, dealing with many other things right now including incubating eggs.
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I’m guessing you mean an NVME M.2 drive is being problematic (ssd may be technically correct, but it is unclear as an ssd could also mean a sata connected drive)
You could use a PCIe card with M.2 connections on it, but that would mean buying one of those cards.
Something like this would work. Currently 18 dollars on amazon.
If you buy this, put it in the slot furthest away from your video card, if the ProArt board is anything like mine, that will put it on the motherboards PCIe lanes instead of pulling the lanes from the CPU.
I got this: --S-a-b-r-e-n-t 1TB R-o-c-k-e-t NVMe 4.0 Gen4 PCIe M.2
The heatsink seems to be nonremovable, trying to find a picture.
I currently have it in the M.2 section farthest away from the GPU as you say.
I kind of feel like I got ripped off, not that isn’t a good NVMe, but the packaging is very limiting - should have sent it back. I was a victim of newegg’s marketing of an item that will not really work for most modern MB’s I think. I can’t find an image of it online even on newegg and amazon!
It makes me think this was perhaps a one-off for PS5s or something. I dropped my guard and ordered this on impluse because I had an older 500GB NVMe and didn’t want to waste the PCIe 4.0 slot. I have a feeling this one won’t perform without the massive heatsink, the current heatsink I see online actually has heatpipes.
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OK I was totally off - this is an XPG
XPG GAMMIX Gaming S70: 1TB Internal PCIe Gen4x4 M.2 2280 (NVMe)
And now that I have focused on this I see my solution - 2 screws
I also see why it won’t fasten with the ASUS “Q-latch” - the m.2 pcb is offset from the bottom of the heatsink - so it will have to be removed from the heatsink to use the Proart heatsink system. I question whether this will work with most M.2 slots on motherboards as is.
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That is quite a heat sink on there. I see why it’s a problem. I had sort of the same issue with the overly large heat sink on the one I picked up.
I just took off the heat sink and used the one that came with my motherboard and it was alright. But I did monitor the heat on it, and before I had all my case fans properly installed, it was getting a bit too warm for my comfort. After I set up fans for proper airflow, I have had no problems with heat. currently it’s sitting at about 38c with my motherboards heat sink. (under load mine gets up to around 45c, which is perfectly fine)
I don’t see any heat pipes on the one you posted, that’s just a big piece of shaped aluminum. Heat pipes have liquid in them and are hollow to move heat through evaporation and condensation using the liquid in the heat pipes. If you have semi-decent airflow in your case, I would not worry at all about using the heat sink that came with your motherboard - the motherboards heat sink should work fine.
If you do take off the heat-sink that came with your NVME M.2 drive, there will be a sticker underneath it, do NOT remove that sticker! it is a special metallic heat-spreading sticker and is meant to be left on even under a heat-sink.
I suggest you try a program called Crystal Disk Info to monitor your drive temps and lifespan. It’s a good little program and it’s free, been around for a long time now, but is still kept up to date by the original developer. He’s japanese so his web page is a bit different. But I can vouch for it. It’s a good program.
Here’s a link
Good, heard of it
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