not with that attitude
its a top open in window just some plastic and tape
or other portable ac unit duct window cover
not with that attitude
its a top open in window just some plastic and tape
or other portable ac unit duct window cover
… my windows open inward lol
the picture was to give a idea of what i was suggesting … its ghetto but would work
Maybe I’ll just go for a portable A/C with an extension cord after all. Just really not looking forward to the electrical bill lol
I will settle for nothing less than a portable chiller controlled from return water temp using an arduino.
Please advise when you have completed.
0.9HP and cools up to 180W?
That sounds abysmal ![]()
Nvm, 1.67kW cooling capacity lmao
Thats for the laser power its designed for. Those lasers pack a ton of heat into a tiny space for thermal transfer so its gotta get the water pretty cold quickly.
You know, you’ve given me a great idea.
You know bathroom tiles? If I cover every single wall, floor and ceiling with peltier cells, I can make it look legit while sacrificing my neighbours instead.
You could also get one of those 12V mini fridges and use that as the reservoir for your liquid loop.
Maybe even run it from solar.
Probably wouldnt keep up with constant load but it would be funny.
Industrial or Aquarium chillers are what extreme water OCers used to run way back in the day. Run the water cooling loop through them and set the temperature the water should be. Uses a lot of power, but the nice thing is they have anywhere from 500-2000w capacity usually depending on size and you can set the specific temp you want the water to be so you can try and maintain just above dew point.
All that heat has to go somewhere though, and Im guessing the reason you want to dump out the window is to exhaust outside the house? Chiller wouldnt really do that. Though you could just buy some small dusctwork and a duct fan and basically suck all air from around the chiller away and dump it out somewhere. I once looked into this and would have done it myself but I simply didnt have the time.
OMG the electrical and heat load
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Ya, it would work. lol. But you would probably be using something like 10+ kw if you did that.
Honestly I love your out of the box thinking. Yes most are wildly impractical, but I miss the days when we used to see projects like this a lot.
Just run the tubes outside, EZPZ
I already have a mini fridge with a compressor, don’t really want to sacrifice that though lol
Yeah, pretty much.
I have a closet that has a ventilation duct running through it, unfortunately the wiring to the main fuse box also runs through that duct so I can’t just run a hole saw through it and set up a rack there :v
Yes, but the thermal load would be my neighbours’ problem ![]()
Some AC-units come with proper kits to do that.
I reckon the correct way of doing this is to grab an ultrawide monitor and turn it 90 degrees, then use automotive hybrid body adhesive to stick it in place. You can then take a hammer and carefully pulverize the window to make a hole for the A/C unit’s exhaust.
Since we are just brainstorming, maybe you can use a large water reservoir to dump the heat into for a while, and then use that water to wash yourself instead of heating water with a dedicated water heater.
Depending on heat load, size of the reservoir and how often you and others in your house need to shower, it can work. Must run some numbers to find out
The water is included in my rent, I think it’d unfortunately just end up being a very expensive shower conversion.
Also, I did consider using running water at some point to cool a lower power PC
Turns out it would use a lot of water
I’ve also considered odd solutions such as running heatpipes into the concrete for a very bootleg geothermal solution. Needless to say, it would probably just end up getting saturated in a few minutes and dumping 90% of the heat on the inside of my apartment anyway.
I suspect at least four things have been overlooked.
As to the wider discussion, it’s unclear if the required ΔT of water temperature over ambient for the loop has been considered or how that backs up into loop components, maintenance, processor temperatures, and shading requirements. There’s an external rad in Arizona thread that, IIRC, got into this a few months ago.
I loathe dealing with reselling sites. I’d rather mangle some cheaper gear with solder since it’d be more of a fun experiment than anything practical anyway.
Would still be interesting to run a side-by-side comparison of both methods though.
I live in Sweden. During the hottest weeks of the year it might be roughly 30c outside. The ambient temps inside are usually fine for cooling performance even during extended stress testing. The problem is that *my* tolerance to heat is much lower than that of my gear lol
So I managed to find a sealing kit that works with my window and an air duct, gonna 3D-print some adapters and mount them to the CPU’s radiator exhaust.
Would the rad fans have enough pressure to move it outside on their own, or will I have to get a duct fan (or 3d print some more case fan adapters to put along the duct)? ![]()