Joy! These are hot-swap using “Kailh’s hot-swap sockets” according to the Ducky site.
Do you think I will be able to “clean up enough” using q-tips and 90% alcohol on the PCB pads on the top and the switches on the bottom (assuming I see no sign of coffee entering the actual switch package)?
There is a dual-layer PCB if I need to go there (see the web page).
A big frustration for me was the fact that the RGB LEDS DO NOT shine through the legends AT ALL. So in dim light I cannot see the white legends against the bright yellow keycaps. I can see all the LED activity around the edges of the keycaps (which actually masks the legends even more in dim/no light).
By the way I wanted as a priority the MX Clear switches, and high quality all around of course and beautifully fun aesthetics, but why would you bother with backlighting on a keyboard if you can’t see illuminated legends? I would be happy with a single appropriate color shine-through with no LED fireworks
I am considering using a dremel to shave some of the underside of the keycaps (based on where the LEDs line up) to achieve shine-through, but that seems like a lot of very detailed work with probably inconsistent results . These are very nice keycaps otherwise, and I am afraid finding something online to replace these would cost as much as a new keyboard. Comments?
Keyboards are stsrting to become the new audiophile money sinkhole. Beware
On a separate note, I am starting to have a disdain for the KSA profile keycaps as it has discomfort during intense gaming (my kid is forcing me to do platforming games). My middle finger hurts now.
I want my OEM/Cherry profile that is flat and easier on gaming sessions.
I might switch back to a low profile too. Im starting to like those more than the full height ones.
Famous first words! Once you swap switches the first time and start to learn that there could be more and something even better out there down the rabbit hole you go!
But dont worry, were here and we have been down this rabbit hole and can help.
I have a very dust discolored black Steelseries Deskpad underneath it.
Right now I just swapped to Cherry MX Ergo Clears. It feels punchier vs normal Browns. The Keychron Gateron Pro G Brown(?) that came with the keyboard has a significantly lighter actuation.
Now that I think of it, I wonder if the discomfort I feel on my finger is because of the profile of the keycap vs the higher actuation force…
Any small numpad or F key ‘sub’ board recommendations?
Looking at an amazon one cause its affordable, fast and pre-built but offff course, wouldn’t mind doing something more custom and niche especially if it has VIA support.
I like the BBpad look and layout, but I like that the Murphpad supports VIA. Will be reprogramming to be F keys (nob is a nice bonus, I guess I would use that to control system volume). If the Murphpad has enough memory that in VIA it supports multiple layers then it might be the best option as its layout would allow F keys then a layer to be a typical num pad.
Yeah I haven’t been able to get on the keychron train. I was very tempted by the Q1 w/ nob (looked like a legit competitor to the GMMK Pro) and I think I remember seeing the Q0 when it was being pre-marketed but I ended up with neither. They are always sold out and the reviews to mod them seem like they are mediocre. All the Q1 mod vids just couldn’t get the sound where I like my keebs to be.
The Murph should be fine with several layers, and if you get really tight on space you can just compile the layers into the firmware using QMK.
I built one for a friend who cant solder, and I will say the SMD LED were a challenge. I ended up using solder paste and a rework heat gun to get them right, I just dont have a steady enough hand to do it with a tip.
Do ya’ll have some fav switches? I’m liking my Akko Piano Pros, but I know people swear by some others. Morandi’s, Holy Pandas, Gateron Milky Yellows, etc.
I ended up having to build my own to get the quiet operation that would not send my partner into hysterics over the noise, while retaining the large tactile bump I enjoy from being a graybeard typist from the 80s.
I made mine starting with Kailh Silent Box Browns, and Kailh Box Royals.
I used the bottom housing of the Box Royal
“hammer” of the Silent Box Brown (little green nub that transfers the bump from the stem)
spring from the Box Royal,
Stem and top housing of the Silent Box Brown.
What I ended up with is a switch with the weight of a Box Royal and a tactile bump that is between the Royal and Silent Brown, but with the dampening sound of the Silent Brown.
