pull the keys, make a bucket/large bowl of warm soapy water, soak the keys and scrub with a tooth brush or similar.
For switches, pull them from the keyboard if they are hotswap, if not you will want to remove the tops housing of all the switches, set aside the springs, and similar to the key caps wash the stems, and top housing in warm soapy water with a brush. Bottom housings will need to be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. I would use a stiff bristle paint brush (think art project not house project) to scrub and apply alcohol to the various areas of the inside of the switch.
Springs will need to be cleaned with alcohol but can be done in a batch with a brush and bowl.
PCB will need to be removed from the case and cleaned with alcohol as well, again stiff bristle brush and any other lint free cleaning cloth like microfiber or kim wipes
You should go ahead and lube everything when done, using krytox and a small paint brush. You can find video’s on youtube for that. Make sure to lube the bottom part of the housing, the spring, the stem, and top part of the housing. If it moves it needs lube. The lube will also help keep liquids out in the future.
I will need to study up on this, figure out how the switches need to be removed to clean. Do you think these are hotswap? The damage would appear to be underneath this white, looks like a complete disassembly should be done? Hopefully there is a way to do it from the top side?
yeah unfortunately there is no way to tell from the top plate if the switch is hot-swap or not, you have to look at the PCB to see if they are soldered in place or put in milmax or sockets.
Joy! These are hot-swap using “Kailh’s hot-swap sockets” according to the Ducky site.
Do you think I will be able to “clean up enough” using q-tips and 90% alcohol on the PCB pads on the top and the switches on the bottom (assuming I see no sign of coffee entering the actual switch package)?
There is a dual-layer PCB if I need to go there (see the web page).
A big frustration for me was the fact that the RGB LEDS DO NOT shine through the legends AT ALL. So in dim light I cannot see the white legends against the bright yellow keycaps. I can see all the LED activity around the edges of the keycaps (which actually masks the legends even more in dim/no light).
By the way I wanted as a priority the MX Clear switches, and high quality all around of course and beautifully fun aesthetics, but why would you bother with backlighting on a keyboard if you can’t see illuminated legends? I would be happy with a single appropriate color shine-through with no LED fireworks
I am considering using a dremel to shave some of the underside of the keycaps (based on where the LEDs line up) to achieve shine-through, but that seems like a lot of very detailed work with probably inconsistent results . These are very nice keycaps otherwise, and I am afraid finding something online to replace these would cost as much as a new keyboard. Comments?
Keyboards are stsrting to become the new audiophile money sinkhole. Beware
On a separate note, I am starting to have a disdain for the KSA profile keycaps as it has discomfort during intense gaming (my kid is forcing me to do platforming games). My middle finger hurts now.
I want my OEM/Cherry profile that is flat and easier on gaming sessions.
I might switch back to a low profile too. Im starting to like those more than the full height ones.
Famous first words! Once you swap switches the first time and start to learn that there could be more and something even better out there down the rabbit hole you go!
But dont worry, were here and we have been down this rabbit hole and can help.
I have a very dust discolored black Steelseries Deskpad underneath it.
Right now I just swapped to Cherry MX Ergo Clears. It feels punchier vs normal Browns. The Keychron Gateron Pro G Brown(?) that came with the keyboard has a significantly lighter actuation.
Now that I think of it, I wonder if the discomfort I feel on my finger is because of the profile of the keycap vs the higher actuation force…
Any small numpad or F key ‘sub’ board recommendations?
Looking at an amazon one cause its affordable, fast and pre-built but offff course, wouldn’t mind doing something more custom and niche especially if it has VIA support.
I like the BBpad look and layout, but I like that the Murphpad supports VIA. Will be reprogramming to be F keys (nob is a nice bonus, I guess I would use that to control system volume). If the Murphpad has enough memory that in VIA it supports multiple layers then it might be the best option as its layout would allow F keys then a layer to be a typical num pad.
Yeah I haven’t been able to get on the keychron train. I was very tempted by the Q1 w/ nob (looked like a legit competitor to the GMMK Pro) and I think I remember seeing the Q0 when it was being pre-marketed but I ended up with neither. They are always sold out and the reviews to mod them seem like they are mediocre. All the Q1 mod vids just couldn’t get the sound where I like my keebs to be.
The Murph should be fine with several layers, and if you get really tight on space you can just compile the layers into the firmware using QMK.
I built one for a friend who cant solder, and I will say the SMD LED were a challenge. I ended up using solder paste and a rework heat gun to get them right, I just dont have a steady enough hand to do it with a tip.
