Is this UPS good for a PC , and 2 display s?

Cyberpower
LE1000DG 1000VA UPS Battery Backup w/ 12 Outlets.
I have a PC and two displays: 24 and 27"

Well depends on how much W your configuration has and how long you want to have it run?
Usually one does not backup the screens unless you want to keep doing what your doing.

If the max ratings of all the devices are below 900W its ok, if not you need a bigger one - but look the data sheet how long it will supply battery power at what load.

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Those 1000VA do not mean much. Depends on the power factor of the UPS to give you a good watts output. I guess a 100VA should be around 700W so I don't think it's enough. Also depends on the configuration you're using and how much power those two monitors use.
Look at the detailed specs of that UPS, bring out the calculator and do some simple math.

P.S. be sure to buy a pure sine wave UPS because the APFC circuit in the modern PC's power supply can damage your pc if the input it gets it's an approximated sine wave (or worse it's a square wave).

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I have a 4670k, gtx770, 2 drives , 850W PSU. But obviously I don't fully load the PSU.

I will probably just plug one Mon. And the PC to the ups.

I think I will get a ups within sine wave, out of my budget

Are PC power supplies realy that inductive/capacitive that the phase-angle plays a role?

All EATON and APC ups I ever saw output a nearly perfect sine-wave even more precise than the line

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Sure, that's why the power is measured in volts-ampere (for the UPSs) and needs to be converted into watts through a power factor (which basically is the phase-angle, as you said). The number you get after the conversion is the watts of power is able to handle and it's what matters.

So this ups is good for my PC?

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I was not aware that PCs have such a big phase-angle, and thus the powerfactor plays such a big role.

@Member1 as @MetalizeYourBrain said above, it's a math game - the data sheet of the UPS in question and the labels of your power supplies will give the data. You either can calculate it yourself - or at least post us the values... but if you want the easy route - just go vor 1500VA, not that much more expensive and will work - and even keep your system up a little longer.

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@MetalizeYourBrain @Th3Z0ne
I have the evga 850 g2.
These are the
POWER SPEC
https://goo.gl/images/kHiOYl

AC Input 100 - 240 VAC, 10A, 50 - 60 Hz
Rail +3.3V +5V +12V +5Vsb -12V
Max Output 24A 24A 70.8A 3.0A 0.5A
849.6W
120W 849.6W 15W 6W
Total 850W @ +50C


This model of ups is the only one that is on sale at my local computer store
Thanks!

Since you're using a 850w PSU, I personally wouldnt go with a 1000 VA. UPS's typically shut down if they are overdrawn for a short period of time, so best to go with something that supports higher loading.

These are great, and can be occasionally found for ~$130. Outputs a pure sinewave as well.

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http://www.apc.com/us/en/tools/ups_selector/

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PSU capacity does not mean anything. How much does your PSU draw?

I could have a 1500W PSU and my PC will never use more than 350W.
I am using a 685VA (390W) UPS for my PC only (not recommended but it works just fine). It has a 700W PSU. I plan to get a bigger UPS soon and use the older one for my screen.

FYI:
What worked great for me is plugging an LED light bulb into my UPS. When we had a power failure I had light for 6 hours!

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Sorry, my response was implied as if Member1 ever planned to use the full capacity of the PSU in the future; sort of drafted the response without proofreading.
Anyway, I agree with that general statement. However, from personal experience, I've encountered a few overdraw scenarios a in the past, and it is not pleasant. At the time, I had a 750w PSU, and purchased a GTX 460 2win without considering the limitations of an IBM 750VA UPS that was connected to my PC.
Long story short, I had no issues, even under gaming, until I encountered conditions where a game would request full utility of the GPU, causing the UPS to beep furiously for a minute or two, followed by a shutdown. If I had to take a guess, it explicitly ran on battery, rather than load balancing between what it could draw from the wall, and the reserve power on the batteries.

Given the hardware M1 is using, I doubt (s)he will ever encounter that situation; but it's important to take the UPS into account in the future, if (s)he decides to add more demanding hardware to the UPS

PS: I have more recently switched over to that CP1500 UPS, and have nothing but praises for that unit. Transformer buzz is non existent, and kicks on a little fan to cool the power components whenever the batteries go into use. For the $30 difference(if you catch it on sale), it is well worth the premium

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I agree and have had that situation. I had a nice APC UPS (they are the best IMO) but it died after many years and the 3rd battery change. The CyberPower 685VA replacement was all I could afford and just barely adequate at the time. Also I wanted a UPS that could use the brand new battery I just purchased.

When I upgraded to a R9 390 GPU the system drew 400W from a 390W UPS and made it unstable. No shutdowns though, just beeping and BSOD's. I had to get a GTX 970 instead.

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Or you know upgrade your PSU you really want to be sitting at the 60% range when drawing full load, thats where your PSU is at optimal efficiency (I aim for 60% as it will bump your low end to higher to keep it in the measure range if you are using lower 80+ cert PSU, usually the sweet spot is in the 50-55 range)

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I will probably just buy the one I linked. If it doesn't work I will return it

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Idle: http://i.imgur.com/KHSFmEX.png
100% CPU load: http://i.imgur.com/VL11Y89.png
100% GPU: http://i.imgur.com/FGM7aBc.png
CPU + GPU @ 100%: http://i.imgur.com/wDI7Jme.png
Test: http://i.imgur.com/L8pF1Pm.png
playing overwatch: http://i.imgur.com/W6Z1yG6.jpg
Also tried unplugging UPS, PC stays on.
Do the results look fine?

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^^^^ Looks fine to me. I think the only thing you'd get by going to a bigger unit is longer battery life

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I agree, but I just want to have some time to shut of my PC