Gaming, on my Tesla, more likely than you think

Doom 2016 ran it at something like 75c.
Other than the VRAM baking itself, decent enough. I’ll either add another fan, or more thermal pads, or both. The cold plate stays hot enough that I don’t think thermal pads to it will help the VRAM. The 40mm VRM fan running off 5 Volts is acceptably noisy.

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You might get away with just add thermal pads on the back of the pcb and onto the back plate and how bad was it to split the fins fro
The vapour camber and if you’re find one a corsair hg10n980 will fit the pcb just needs the power plug for the tesla cut out but other than that it’s the same pcb for that and that will just need a aio and it’ll be good to go with so pads on the back of the card for the memory on the back but usually pick they adapters up for 15 quid when they turn up usually unused

How bad was gettimg that heatsink to mound to the vapour camber

The M40 has thermal pads on the back. Give me a minute and I’ll upload a video how I removed the fins; it was pretty easy.

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Aye just curious on how they soldered it to the plate and if you look at the adapter I listed you could just put the heating you’re using on it as well instead of the aio and job done

I don’t like water in my PC BTW.

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Nice mate and got you no worries it was just a thought that’s cheap and works with heatsinks but thanks for the video mate I enjoy hardware myself and all this kind of stuff

As a BTW with yousaying how hot the plate is getting check the heatpipes and that they are all working still

I do wish some companies would sell accessories that would make it easy to mount a standard CPU cooler without limitting us to Asetek. Personally, I think using the same mounts as LGA 2011 would be the way to go; nothing needs to go through the plate.

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I’ve soldered many heat pipes, many failures; i usually hear a hiss when they fail. I may add some of the solder back to fill gaps, maybe throw a copper sheet over that. I just desoldered then sanded what was left; it could certainly be better contact. Also, I wouldn’t expect the plate to get so hot so quick if they weren’t working.

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I do to but there is no demand unfortunately and it’s
All about the money but go back say 2015 you could do stuff like this much easier and find resources and that but people don’t innovate they just use and throw away they don’t try new things unfortunately

I got you and yeah might just be the gap I did have a thought maybe you’re just cut up the fins to give clearance to the heatsink and once you’ve filled th pipes back in just solder the cut up fins back on and that should work

And items hot fast got you well as yousaid doubt itd work but thermal pad between the black plate and the heat pipe plate might help the memory out but if it’s keeping under 80 on the memory it’s okay on it but you know what you’re doing and appreciate you sharing you’re experience of get to g this all up and running

I popped the heat pipes.

Then replaced them with copper plates.



It seems to do a little better now; ambient might also be lower though. I think the extra thermal pads would be enough to make me happy.

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It sure helps.

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someone tried elden ring on a tesla k series? can you share the performance ?

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Just read on 780ti performance it’ll be very close to the k40 and take 20 percent or so off for the k20x

Dancer mate

I’m sure part of the question is if it’ll even run. That fan was fine for 3 hours playing Doom.

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Okay so I just had problems with Eldon ring with a r9 280X and the game has some problems with dx12_11 cards, 980 worked fine

i’m playing with r9 280x and m40 . It start the render on the menu with the r9 280x and switches the m40 once it load the game.
strange but it works , for what i tried no crashes.

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