Maybe. But it was odd that they threw a fit and just shut it down as soon as it happened.
What does sliger do then?
Mix of steel and alu. Their cases are easier to build compared to caselabs (Well some of caselabs) also they made cases and other stuff prior to these new cases that took off after Cerberus ended up with them as the manufacture. Remember management can fail a company like that too
So, I finally got around to my taxes. Got a computer’s worth back, so this will probably move forward shortly.
Question for those who’ve been following the motherboard scene: are these prices we’re seeing inflated due to 'rona, or is this just what they’re charging?
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rona and it just came out prices / we just reopened prices
when ordering theres been alot of amazon and the like thefts so a secure drop off like amazon locker or making sure you get the box is key atm
and if you haven’t sign up for usps informed delivery so others can’t scan your mail/packages for stuff
I can imagine.
Good advice, thanks.
B-B-Back from the dead!
It begins:
Alright, time to plan the cost:
| Purchased | Component | Selection | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
Case | Sliger SM580 | $320.00 | Included both Pigtail and inbuilt power adapter. Hoping to not need the pigtail.  Also included the PCIe 3.0 Riser. |
 |
CPU | Ryzen 9 3900x | $429 | |
|
Motherboard | ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming ITX | $199 | [3] |
|
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z RGB 2x16 3600 | $164 | Still trying to decide how I want to go with this one… [1] |
|
Linux GPU | MSI Radeon 5600 XT MECH OC | $289 | Expecting this to drop in price when the 3000 series launches. If this doesn’t happen, I’m okay with it. |
|
Windows GPU | RTX 2080 Ti or 3000 series equivalent | $700 | Considering options here… [2] |
|
Power Supply | Corsair SF 600w | $209 | WTF!? power supply prices are a fat F |
|
SSD 1 | WD Blue 500GB M.2 | $0 | Had this from my original build, would consider selling it for the right price and getting something faster. |
|
SSD 2 | WD Blue 2TB M.2 | $0 | Had this from my original build, would consider selling it for the right price and getting something faster. |
|
SSD 3 | Micro 2TB SATA | $0 | Had this from my original build, would consider selling it for the right price and getting something faster. |
Initial Component Total: $2310
Now, none of this takes into consideration watercooling shit yet. I’m still planning that out. I think I’ll just put some stuff in here so I can get an idea of what the watercooling will cost.
| Purchased | Component | Selection | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Tubing | EK ZMT | $18 | Good shit xD |
|
Pump/CPU Block | AlphaCool Eisbaer Solo 2600 Black | $60 | |
|
GPU Blocks | 2x whatever GPU block I need | $230 | I figure the Alphacool blocks are ~115 ea |
|
Radiator 1 | AlphaCool 280mm XT45 x-flow 16FPI | $90 | Hoping this will fit as a top-mount rad in my case… If not, I’ll switch to a dual-pass and see if that works out. |
|
Radiator 2 | AlphaCool 240mm ST30 dual-pass 12FPI | $70 | I would like to fit this in there… But I’m honestly not sure if I can. I’ll take measurements when the case arrives. |
Watercooling component initial total: $408
I’m expecting to spend somewhere in the order of $50-120 on additional components needed.
Alright, I don’t really know what to do about fittings. and I’m also not really sure what size tubing I should run. Anyone have some suggestions for this?
Any other advice for the loop configuration?
I’d like some advice on loop additives and whatnot, since last time I did a loop it spawned zerglings.
Lastly, if anyone has any info on FPI vs heat load, I’d love to hear it. I’m trying to get up to speed on what FPI rating is best, and if this looks like enough rad to cool the system.
Footnotes:
[1] Someone help me out here, do I want 2x32 slower or 2x16 faster? I’m concerned about memory bandwidth for Looking Glass since my display is 3840x1600@75/90, and I absolutely want to continue playing games at this resolution.
[2] So I’m going to be playing VR games in the VM… I need lots of GPU for this one lol
[3] Since I’m playing VR Games, I’m hoping to get a motherboard that has multiple USB Controllers so I can pass one through to the VM and hook up the USB link… I think… I remember something about a USB C protocol for hooking straight into a GPU that Oculus was working on, but I don’t remember if that’s taken off or if the Index supports it (even with an adapter!)
3 Likes
G1/4 fittings can’t really make use of anything bigger than 1/2" OD tubing. You could use tubes and fittings which are bigger, but you wouldn’t get any added flow rate from it since the threaded holes that the fittings fit into are only so big. I went with hard tubing in my new machine because I’m insane. It looks cool, but don’t do that. It just makes everything harder.
Two things that can really save your ass when it comes to ITX + watercooling are rotary right angles, and the adjustable fitting extenders. The rotary ones are nice because they can still spin when fastened down all the way.
Distilled water and Swiftech HydrX as a biocide is what I’m using. You could toss a silver kill coil in there also if you want a little more anti-gunk protection since silver is a “natural” biocide. I’m not a big fan of the premixed stuff since it’s often got all kinds of dyes and stuff which tends to gunk things up over time.
Looks good to me heat-load-wise. I tend to just get the biggest rads that will fit in the case, and not really worry about FPI that much. You might need to use something like those skinny 15mm thick fans from Noctua on the bottom rad as it doesn’t look like there’s a whole lot of room down there from the pictures.
3 Likes
Hmm, not so sure about your GPU setup - you are aware you will need four GPU slots but only have three available, right? Is the plan to watercool both cards, therefore only requiring a single slot for both cards? Or will you only need a single water block for the “monster” card and let the 5600 XT be a dual-slot Air cooled?
My understanding is that you plan to pull in your heat from top and bottom and push out heat to the sides? If so, not a bad plan. It will make everything NOT water-cooled slightly toastier inside, but still well within specs, and would reduce dust buildup inside the case. If you live somewhere cold keep that puppy on the floor for happy feet (or pets) 
Anyway, you probably already thought about this, just checking to understand your thought process. Nice build project regardless!
This pump block combo could be of interest to you. I’m probably going to get one to do my DIY AIO (was looking at the Eisbaer LT and Apogee before), but it would be a good sub for the Eisbaer in your case.
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Yeah, for ITX builds something like that could be pretty nifty if for no other reason it saves you from having to find a spot for the pump. So long as you’ve got a reservoir in there somewhere you probably won’t have any problems with air getting trapped in the pump just because it’s not at the bottom of the loop.
I drilled a few holes and used two of these plus a few extra fittings to mount my res on the back of the case. I did that entirely for ease of filling and draining, but depending on the size of the case something like that might work for an ITX build also in order to save usable space inside the case.
@SgtAwesomesauce I just noticed that the rotary fittings I linked earlier are for hard tubing. You’ll need different ones for soft tubing, but there should be plenty to choose from.
Awesome. This is just what I’m looking for. I’m not a big fan of dyes either, especially because I’m doing opaque soft tubing. Doesn’t make much sense. This build is targeting function over form.
Yeah, the bottom seems like it’s gonna be tight. I’m going to break out the calipers as soon as the case arrives and do the math to make sure it all fits properly.
Thanks for sanity checking the heat load.
Thanks for the heads up. 1/2in OD or ID?
I’m just going to snag the largest size ZMT that EK sells and go with it.
I’m fully aware of this issue. My current solution is to watercool both cards, and since most 5600xt only have ports in “one slot”, I’m going to either find a single-slot mounting plate or take a dremel to the existing one, and make sure whatever high-end GPU I get will only be dual-slot (or dremel that as well)
Hmmmm 
I looked at it and it appears to be too tall. I’ll have to confirm this when I get the case in. See the SM580 has a max of 55mm for CPU coolers and that Barrow cooler is 64mm. 
When I get the case, I’ll have to see if I can make up that 9mm by repositioning things a bit…
Ahh, gotcha. I’ll be sure to check that when I get the fittings.
I’ve thought about going that route, I just don’t really want to “cheat” and go outside the case if I can avoid it.
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If you’re using thicker walled tubing like the ZMT stuff, then yeah 1/2 ID might be a better choice. I’m using 1/2 OD, but the walls of the tubing are super thin, so it works out about the same.
I guess you could use something like ZMT with the right sized compression fitting, but barbs might be a better choice. A compression fitting of that size would be pretty chunky and you might run into trouble threading them into your blocks properly without it running into things. If needed you can get adapters like those 90 degree rotary fittings with threads on both sides though, so that should still work.
If you can’t tell already fittings can be kind of a rabbit hole here. 
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now if only it wasnt borrow
(guess you can swap out the pump at least )
Isn’t that a DDC pump?
Yeah, that’s why I was looking for some guidance. I just want something quick 'n easy.
I guess I’ll figure it out eventually.
it is but i am leery of barrow metal quality (Not that its a huge deal to be honest) But from watching the review its seems to be standard ddc but he didnt mention if it was swapable. (could have weird screw locations / size etc.)
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Yeah, I’d give it a go if it weren’t for the height…
I just realized that the Eisbaer Solo, with the res in it is too tall as well.
I’m starting to think I’ll need to go with a standard waterblock and rock an external pump/res. Which might actually help with air bubbles…
how too tall is it?
you specking slim line fans and rad? (or fan only on 1/2 of rad + slim rad)
Eisbaer LT, if it’s powerful enough
Do as densetsu, external mo-ra 360 rad and d5 pump-res combo.
He is already on that path for quieter operation when at desk, still needs a set up her can mover around tho .
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