Yes, you really could use one for this job. The ball joint I was trying to get off I had to hit the pickle fork so hard the end of it was mushrooming out.
That. lol
Since you have an air chisel these should get the job done.
Also the “short axle” it’s called a CV axle. Short axle might not be wrong, I’ve just never heard it called that. You don’t need to remove it, but it looks like you might have already.
I which I would have read through this post when I first saw it.
Also, I think your Blazer is very nice looking, I really like the painted grill.
Edit: You could go borrow a pickle fork from AutoZone. It’s something they do, I’m not saying buy something use it then return it. Lol
My dad found me one you whack with a hammer. Apparently we have no air head for a PF and I don’t really feel like buying any more than the parts that I need x3
I have not but I am in the process of it.
Its just going to be easier on me atp since I’ve never done this before. Might as well learn how shit goes together.
That should be fine. Make sure it’s clearing all the various metal bits in there. I hit mine a few times before I realized the tip of the fork was hitting part of the lower control arm.
If you have all the parts, putting it back together shouldn’t take long at all. I’ll try to watch this thread as I’m working to see if I can help out in any way, if you end up having anymore questions, but getting the lower control arm out is definitely the hardest part, so the rest should be smooth sailing.
The way I get the tie rod end out is to hit the knuckle surrounding the tie rod end with a 2-3lb hammer. A couple good hard sharp raps will usually knock it loose. First thing is to loosen the nut but leave it on to protect the threads in case you miss where you’re supposed to hit. In your second pic directly below the shank of the screwdriver handle is where to hit. The hammer blow seems to slightly deform the tapered hole or maybe its the vibration. This works on any tapered bolt and hole all the way up to 5ton trucks…personal experience.
I don’t have any pictures on hand, but the part is in and we’re moving along. Whole tie rod needs to be replaced but I’ll do that in a week or two. Its fine for now.
Need to bolt that back in, then the disc brake assembly and then the wheel.
Had to take the tortion bar assembly apart though. Something in the back, either the key or something else, knocked out of place upon disassembly. But thats sorta patched now.
Pivots are in, most of the cotter pins are set up and done, just minor shit now. You really can see where the other a arm get jacked around.
Tie rod bolt doesn’t want to stay still either when putting it back together. Cotter pin is on gr8 but the inside bolt won’t have it. I’ve been at it with an air ratchet and picklefork trying to get it to bind but I get one little lead then nothing.
Should this be sandwhiched all the way down on the shock? Its as tight as I can get it by hand and came super wide open. It doesn’t grab the bushing tho.
That’s unfortunate, but fortunately it’s a very easy job.
I cheeped out and went with a cheep one off Amazon, and the reviews were right about the ABS sensor not working, but I figured I could just swap in my sensor, but that didn’t work either, so if you care about dashboard lights spend those extra bucks on one from your parts store.
Don’t get this one. It’s the garbage one I got. Lol
thread continues!