Has anybody ever heard of or done this?
http://printtable.com/
I made an enclosure for my printer from ikea furniture but it isnt this
Interesting. I’d like to get my hands on some samples for mechanical testing. I can see a huge market for this if it produces equivalent properties as traditional methods.
made some things for quakecon
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What software do you use with your Prusa? I know its open source but im looking for some direction. Im getting pretty comfy with 3DS Max and Blender (kinda), but are there other modelling programs I should be using specifically for 3d printing?
Prusa Slic3r
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Protective coating for smoothing and finishing 3D printed parts that does not melt plastic. XTC‑3D® fills in 3D print striations and creates a smooth, high gloss finish. The need to post finish is almost eliminated. XTC‑3D® can be applied to both SLA and SLS prints. It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media such as EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper.
smaller cheaper cr10, still bigger than prusa i3 mk2s in every direction and less than half price
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I got my new power supply installed yesterday , back in printing action. I opened up the old power supply and wierd I didn’t see a burnt out capacitor or anything…My turn knob is a little sloppy and I found a place online that sells parts for these things. I might just spend the 13$ and get a new led screen/knob etc.
The writer of this article thinks this stuff looks weird but I disagree. Nature is the best designer.
The point is that stuff like this would be impossible to manufacture without 3D printing.
In this video the engineer inputs the “hard points” for a chair, clicks GO and the computer ‘evolves’ through many analysis and design iterations before spitting out an optimized part.
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I’m looking at learning to use a 3D printer. I’m hoping to use it to print things (I’d otherwise have to have printed by people) for cosplay and just random things for around the house.
I’ve been looking at the Creality3D CR-10 and Folgertech FT-5 as they have a large build volume (which I hope will make it easier for the props) and are fairly inexpensive. My worry is the horror stories about both missing parts or worse, fires from poorly power supplies or badly wired units. Would I be better of spending more and reducing the build volume slightly for something like the FlashForge Guider II?
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Good to hear you’re back up & printing. I have heard of a few problems with those knobs. I’d probably grab the parts & try & fix it too. I couldn’t stand not knowing what the problem was 
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I haven’t heard of any fires with the CR-10, though I don’t use facebook, which is where most users hang out to discuss them. There is a fairly large community there that would be worth visiting.
The wiring job on mine is good. I’ve taken my power supply & control box apart quite a few times now to modify things or check something for other CR-10 owners & it all seems perfectly fine.
Regarding problems or missing parts, they seem to respond fairly well, @Sensai just got a new power supply after a failure, so may be a better source of information on that process.
The CR-10 is a really nice printer to learn on, set up is very simple. If you plan to make cosplay props, then the build volume will come in handy.
@Mora … It sucks for me not knowing the cause of the failure… and replacing a part is not even close to solving a problem, unless that part happened to be the problematic system. I honestly think the LED screen/knob for controller was the cause. Strange I can find every single part inside the controller box, except the power supply unit(the silver box).
I may just go with a CR-10 then. I’ve been watching a lot of videos from makers and am really excited to start getting into it more.
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