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3D Printing Starters Guide, FAQ, Helpdesk, General Talk Thread



I wouldn’t have minded so much if it was cheap, but it’s made in Australia, so I was supporting a local business & paying to do so.


Well, then there is no excuse. I didn’t know they existed until now though. Some examples of engrish throughout their website. If you only got one roll, probably not worth chasing up through ACCC.


Should I get a Creality CR-10? What’s up with the S model? Never done 3D printing. Use case would mainly be just random things that pop into my head that range from small to large sized and possibly prototyping for my dad’s side business.


Looks like a good machine. Large build plate, simple design. Plenty of reviews of it on YouTube, so watch a bunch of them to get an idea.

The S model looks like it improves some things, mentioning a dual axis lead screw. It wouldn’t be easy to add an extra Z screw and servo yourself. Only having one Z-screw could lead to a small amount of slop or movement in the z-axis as it moves. It would only be small, but given the width of the unit and the layer heights of 0.2mm, it could have an effect on large prints.
Spring for the model S if you can.

There has been some talk going around about machines from China (Specifically the Anet A8) catching on fire. Typical safegaurds have been disabled in their firmware to try and catch thermal runaway etc. So be cautious. I don’t think that specifically applies to this printer, but worth thinking about.

Creality have recently released the code for their printer, keeping in line with the Marlin GPL from what it was based on.

Finally, there are discount codes floating around for GearBest. If you do decide to get one, check these out.
In short, it seems to suit your use case.


It looks like GearBest is mostly out of stock right now. Are the ones on Amazon alright to buy? I’d like to get it by the weekend so I can start playing around with printing stuff.


I dont know what company CCTREE is that I am seeing but Creality 3d is the real McCoy


They might still come from Chyna. Try


Looking at this one:

Aaaaand it’s ordered. Should be here on Friday.



I ordered the printbite surface for my tevo tarantula. Only took about a week to get to me in the midwest from the UK. I have to say its JFM…I wont use glass again. Cost me about $40 with shipping but the time/effort saved is worth it.


This is precisely why I use credit card for everything online… backcharge. Sae the emails and pictures so you got something to go on… backcharge it. Wait 45 days to see if they responde after you are refunded… and drag it on. Stuff like this my credit card company would be 100% behind me.




Nice one! Now the fun begins. Go to and print new bits for your printer!


next thing


Thanks for the Link. I had been search on Amazon and could not find a Genuine Creality 3D CR-10s.

I am planning on picking one up for maker prototyping and automotive prototyping. Going to be a fun summer!


nek minnit


Very frustrating when something’s been printing for three and a half hours, and is 75% done, then it breaks free and falls over.


Yeah it can be!

Or if you leave it running overnight and it makes a bird’s nest.

Pics? Might be able to add more support structures.

Don’t get too angry, that is all part of 3D printing.


Printing this :

Was doing the main cabinet without the cover. Just started printing again, this time with the cover too. Cranked the bed temp up by 10 degrees to 70.


What are you printing in? 70 too high for PLA, too low for ABS.

If the part is not adhering correctly to the bed, there are a few things you can do to fix this.
Add a skirt in the slicing process, a single layer of material around the first layer to increase the surface area. This can also prevent corners lifting.
Or you could add a raft in extreme cases, such as printing ABS and it is being a pain, or you have many small pieces that wont adhere.
Are you printing directly on the glass? How does the first layer look? If it appears to lay a bit loose on the plate, and not get squashed onto it a bit, try reducing the clearance. manually level but make the fit a bit tighter. I have no experience printing on glass, so others may have more info.
I print onto a buildtak surface, and regularly clean it off with isopropyl.

You could flip that piece on its roof, so the sides are up in the air. You may need to add manual supports under the round screw sections.