Printing in PLA. The corners do lift. The bed is glass, but I’ve tried with masking tape and without to see if things would stick better. Doesn’t seem better either way. With the bed temp at 70 the corners still lifted.
I level pretty much before each print, and it seems like usually when the nozzle is at the center I can’t slide a piece of paper under it. At each corner I level it so the paper is just starting to catch between the nozzle and the bed. The glass may not be perfectly straight
I was going to try a brim, see if that helps the warping and maybe sticking. Then again, the buildtak surface looks nice, so I’ll probably get that. Hold off printing anything until that gets here, don’t want to waste more material.
Glass is great for remaining flat, which is why some people use it on top of aluminum. If it is getting too hot it could warp perhaps? If you have some kind of straight edge, you could check it.
If there is no gap at all, the tip could scratch the glass, or it could get blocked. So you want to get the paper under where you are printing.
Have you tried hair spray? Many people say it works well for adhesion. Check for vids online about that, never tried it personally.
Corners lifting can be a pain, skirts help with that. Sometimes the model will just do it if it has rounded edges. You could try re-orientating it.
I’m using the Creality CR-10S, and I was reading that some people were getting glass that was ever so slightly warped, or had low/high spots. They’d go down to the hardware store, get a 12x12 mirror, and any issues would disappear. I’ll check it with a straight edge, though.
I was thinking about using glue sticks or hair spray, but that sounds so messy. I may pick some sticks up tomorrow just to test with, though.
I am using Cura currently. It seems very simple and user-friendly. I was playing with Slic3r, but that seems more difficult to use. Also seems more powerful.
I’ll double check the level. The fact that the tip was so tight at the center does bother me. Maybe I’ll loosen the corners just a bit to see what that does at the center.
The brim can help with the corners lifting, also make you first layer super slow, it really helps to stick it down.
The anycubic print surfaces are great if you’re looking to upgrade & they make one for the CR10. I’ve had mine since December & it still looks as good as the day I put it on.
I tried flipping it, and then I started having adhesion issues. I may try sanding it with 220 grit, but I do have a pack of BuildTak coming on Tuesday.
Oh God. My mom knows I have a 3D printer. She likes loom weaving. I told her about thiniverse. First thing she does on there is search for weaving. “Ohhh, I need this comb!” “Ooooh, this is two hundred dollars, you need to make this!” “Look at these shuttles!” “Ohhh, a foot loom!”
I saw a max speed of 200mm/s on an amazon listing, which would only apply to X & Y axis. That’s 12,000 mm/min.
Z and E are probably fine. Don’t be too concerned about these values, the defaults will be ok unless you want to print really fast. And what effect it will have, I don’t actually know. Maybe if you use the built in slicer? I tend to slice and then upload the gcode file to octoprint, and let it print.
As for invert controls, if you use Octoprint to move the hot end around and it goes the wrong way, check the appropriate invert control box.
Octoprint and a webcam are a game changer. I have been using them for ages, and never had any issues with them. I use an old PS2 eye camera since I had it lying around. Now i can check on it from the other room.
Some people use Raspberry Pi camera also. GoPro’s would work independently if you get the Wifi model.
There is this site, which is a bit like an aggregator: https://www.stlfinder.com/
It will index a bunch of places, including ones that list models for purchase.
I don’t use any other places, tend to assume it doesn’t exist if I can’t find it on either of them.
I tend to use autodesk 123design mostly. Easy to use and has fillets/chamfers etc.
If I have something more complex, I’ll use Fusion 360, which is free for non-commercial stuff.
I have also used scad, which is pretty neat. But can be tricky to do basic things like chamfers, which are a one step operation in Fusion 360, and just as configurable.
That sure is a nice site. Sort of have to know what you’re looking for, but it makes it easier when it searches so many places. I’m trying to find some ammo can organizers, and all I can find is the one with the three baskets.
Fusion 360 looks cool, but there’s no Linux support. I’ll take a look at scad, or OpenSCAD.
A finer layer height can also squash the filament more, making it fatter so to speak. I usually print in 0.2mm. If i go finer, I usually run into these issues.
What infill percentage are you using? And top layers? Just looking at the bubbling effect on the top of that SD card holder. Some infill (15% perhaps) and 3 top layers should help that, and give a good finish on top.
Print one of these, and post the results:
It is a good troubleshooting model.
OpenSCAD works on Linux. If you want to really get teabag deep in parametric design, give that a go. I have used it to make some knobs for various things. Just print out the cheat sheet and look up the net for functions people have made.
Finally, I did find some ammo boxes on thingiverse ages ago, printed some out for a work mate.
