Greetings!
I’m a new owner of a Level1Techs 1.4 Display Port KVM Switch - Dual Monitor - Four Computer 10gbps.
My current setup is as follows:
Monitor:
Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 - G95SC
Devices:
Personal PC: RTX 3080 + AMD Ryzen 9 5900X Running Windows 10
Work PC: RTX 3080 + AMD Ryzen Threadripper PRO 3975WX Running Windows 10
Work Laptop: 2021 M1 Macbook Pro 16"
The KVM is connected to the monitor via a 1M Club3d Displayport 1.4 cable
Both PCs are connected to the KVM via 2M Club3d Displayport 1.4 cables
The laptop is connected to a 1M Club3d Displayport 1.4 cable to a Cable Matters USB C Multiport Adapter (USB C Hub DisplayPort 1.4)
Currently I’m experiencing a few issues that I would appreciate help resolving.
After switching away from my personal PC and then returning, the display never returns. The only solution I’ve found is to restart.
My work PC display signal appears to break down above 60hz. The output jitters and periodically goes black. [UPDATE] This appears to be solved after adjusting settings in nvidia control panel
Laptop display signal also seems to be incredibly weak, even more so than the work PC. Similar but pronounced symptoms observed. I tried bypassing the USB C to displayport adapter and using a Maxonar USB C to DisplayPort • 8K 60Hz Type C to DP Cable which works when plugged directly into monitor but no displays are found in the settings.
Please let me know if there are any additional details I can provide, thanks for your help!
Hi! Thanks for reaching out. Hopefully we can solve your issues
I’ve seen this issue. When you switch from a different pc channel, back to this one, does it come back?
Ex: PC1 is black → switch to PC 2 → Switch back to PC1
You just need a better cable here, probably. That particular one might be dodgy. You could get a fiber optic cable to solve this issue probably if the Nvidia settings don’t seem to permanently solve it, or try exchanging that one.
Is the laptop connection USB-C → DisplayPort, or DisplayPort → USB-C? Can you clarify how it’s hooked up?
I’m a little confused by how you’re listing the laptop connections. I think they’re backward? The MAC is the video source, so naturally, it would go first in the chain:
Mac Pro (USB-C Out) → USB Hub (USB-C In)
USB Hub (DisplayPort Out) → KVM (DisplayPort In)
Mac Pro (USB-C Out) → KVM (DisplayPort In)
?
These cables and their source-destination direction are very important for troubleshooting lol
For option 2, quality USB-C to DisplayPort cables are very difficult to find and do not go both ways. We recommend the Moshi USB-C to DisplayPort cable specifically. It’s a little pricey, but the quality is worth it:
I looked up the cable you mentioned, the listing looks like it should probably work, but I have no experience with them. The reason Wendell recommends Moshi is because it’s one of the few he’s tried that work as intended.
Also, I’m a little skeptical of the cable. Having no display output is strange.
Can you try changing your resolution down to 1440p@60, then swapping to the USB-C → Displayport cable? It might be that the res & refresh rate is just too high so nothing is being displayed.
Sure Wendell recommends FIBBR. Fiber optic cabling is special because it’s basically lossless quality. Instead of copper (which degrades over distance) there’s glass/laser magic involved to keep it strong over loooong distances. https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-Ultra-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B0C3CT6D6W?th=1
I just tried this, no luck
Additionally, I tried plugging the usb c hub displayport directly in the monitor and was able to get full resolution at 120hz.
Okay i’ll give this a shot
I can’t find any sleep related settings, can you be more specific?
Nice! We’ve had a few people give success reports with those active repeaters.
Unfortunately the answer is no, and no. Signal boosting or anything of the sort would ultimately cause more problems/compatibility issues. The KVM does not manipulate/control/change the signal in any way. Doing so would interfere with variable refresh rates and all kinds of stuff. The goal of the KVM is to be as invisible as possible, therefore it is as universal and compatible as possible with any new hardware and firmware that may come out. Basically, modifying the signal opens up a whole can of worms that come with their own problems. It’s better to not, and find fixes for the minor outlier issues.