Yeah I think you’re right, what water block is it exactly looks like a Corsair
As a small update, the numbers of both the CPU and GPU after a 1 hour synthetic stress test. The fans have been hard set to 100%, and the water temps are 38.2c average.
Okay, good news is, there is an order and all that’s wrong is the order of the inlet outlet
Bad news is you have to disassemble the system and drain the loop to get to the CPU block
I’d take that over a faulty CPU, let us know if that’s not the case
Damn I really thought I nailed it, sexy setup btw
I’m out of ideas
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As am I, again wondering if this is even an issue… Have from the beginning. But I can not find any numbers to compare against… I still feel like it’s a strong possibility that it’s just the way the 5800X3D is. As I’ve said I know from Gamers Nexus, Jays Two Cents, and LTT that the 5800X3D has special Thermal properties do to the 3D cache.
No it definitely shouldn’t be that hot, stock prism coolers are cooler than that
Wonder is my Asus MB is doing something it shouldn’t. I know that the OC stuff should not be available for X3D chips but would there be some stupid AI thing that could be borking it? There is that HW info “Power reporting deviation” percentage that has always been funky for me despite what settings I have changed.
Voltages and CPU-power values look fine to me.
The temperature difference between your water and CPU is puzzling.
Have you tried to get that air bubble out of the block?
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Oh that bubble (and it looks like every other bubble) has been long worked out, that Picture is like 2 weeks old now, that was from right after I finished it. That was like 2-3 days before noticing the odd temps and thus this post.
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I also find the delta between the per core and average to be odd. Not to mention the fact that at no point does it throttle at all according to HWinfo…
I think you can get away with a stick cooler space wise, you don’t have to drain the loop to test just remove the CPU block and have it hang out of the way
If it’s still hot then it’s the CPU being busted
Or motherboard I wouldn’t put it past Asus given their recent quality issues and corner cutting
Unfortunately I can’t, the only air cooler I have now is an old NH-D15 and it literally does not fit because of the MB CPU socket location… that and I would have to also take out the rear rad… the 5800x3d does not come with a stock cooler either. The air cooler I used before was a NH-A12A that I have since made another system with and sold to a friend… literally out of my machine and into the new machine…
Guess I can try calling the only computer shop in town and ask if I can borrow an air cooler for testing, but I doubt it. Not to mention I would have to get more paste again…
Few things here:
Looks like you’re dumping hot air into your 120mm rad. That’s going to completely negate the radiators ability to do anything useful.
Second, what exact models of radiator do you have? Different radiators have different fin densities, thicknesses and whatnot. All of that vastly contributes to your systems ability to dissipate heat. For example, I’ve got an ITX rig with 2x240MM rads. The top rad is 48mm thick while the bottom is 25mm thick. The cooling performance delta is approximately 75/25 in favor of the 48mm rad.
What’s your fan profile look like? Are these fans designed for radiators?
Do you have a temp probe on your loop? If not, get one. Knowing the water temp is incredibly important for us to be able to diagnose why your CPU temps are so high.
Lastly, I have a 5700g in my rig. It’s… frustrating. The CPU gets quite hot, but doesn’t overheat. I suspect AMD’s IHS bonding is less than ideal on some CPUs.
Don’t even get me started, Asus arbitrarily dropped MB RGB control for JUST this MB model even though it uses the same Aura chipset as the rest of there x570 line… love the board, but yes Asus has really been dropping the ball when it comes to software and recently hardware as well…
I refuse to use ArmoryCrate… it literally install 98 other softwares last time I checked… unacceptable!
But I digress,
Might be worth giving OpenRGB a try
Wrong, I have been in contact with the likes of Jays Two Cents and as I have 2x 140mm fans adding intermediary air it is effective. I have also confirmed this by turning said 140mm fans off and yes the water temps go up. So that rear rad is definitely working IF the 140mm fans draw in fresh air mid way.
Front 240 is a “EK-Quantum Surface S240” the rear is a “ Hydro X Series XR5 120mm Water Cooling Radiator”
Yes, there Corsair ML120 RGB ELITE Premium. And when forced to 100% water temps are 38c
Yes where do you think I’m getting the water temperature from…
This is also what I wonder is happening.
I have, nope not going to use unless it get MUCH more feature rich…
I have RGB and keyboard/mouse profiles almost per game, so…
Ahh, bummer.