Brainstorm, what do you think about … The use of the previously mentioned power supply and add this…
Power will be provided via USB-A 5V/2A(2.4A) and at the output we will have - DC Jack 12V(2A?). Adequate for connecting devices that OP wants to power.
That’s the theory… 
Thanks bud!
I presumed if the V goes up, the A goes down.
so 5V2A one side, turns into 12V0.7A or whatever the losses and stuff is.
But if router and such is fine with <1A then OP saves wallwarts etc
Okay, let’s forget the simple stuff.
I don’t see much point in sticking to the fact that it has to be USB…
Buy one of these power supplies and plug in the cables and you’re done. 
Fair enough. This was how people in the old days will do it.
Since the proliferation of Quick Charge, particularly QC 3.0, there are better ways to do it. QC 3.0, for example, supports output any voltage between 5V and 20V. So whatever voltages OP might need is already baked inside OP’s “USB board.”
However, QC requires a digital negotiation process. Otherwise, you can’t get the voltages higher than 5V, and current higher than 2.4A (@5V). That’s how the Chinese “QC 3.0 trigger device” accomplishes.
Do you have a quick device that will do the job right away? I’m asking out of pure curiosity.
OP probably wants to connect a few devices at the start, but I speculate that more than 4-6 ports or more would be useful. It’s slowly starting to look like art for art’s sake and there’s little point in doing it if the main reason is to reduce the number of power supplie per device.
The PP mentioned by @QuarkyPhysicist seems to be the most sensible so far.
the Pine Power did look like great way to do it
Thanks for all input
Will QC 3.0 work if I use type-a to type-c and use the type-c connectors
And maybe this too power it all
Don’t have anything atm
Will not the 4-port qc3 board know if I use type-a to type-c with the plug I showed.
Otherwise I’m looking at
[Kr60.41]Typ-C PD QC AFC Snabbladdning Decoy Trigger Module DC 5V 9V 12V 15V 20V Output Laddare WIFI Router Smart Speaker Camera Modulkort from Elektroniska komponenter och tillbehör on banggood banggood://prod-1970579?channel=googleshopping&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_pt&utm_campaign=aceng-pmax-se-all-en-220402-meruem&utm_content=meruem&utm_design=-
Chargers have become much more intelligent in recent years with proliferation of Quick Charge and USB Power Delivery. It’s no longer like in the old days, simply connecting two analog wires, current will start flowing in a way you may want.
To get anything >5V or >2.4A (@5V or above), two ends need to go through a digital negotiation process. It’s handled by a chip soldered on both ends i.e. inside the charger, and inside your device.
Only smartphones/laptops commonly have such a chip. Router/Wifi and etc are essential dumb devices as far as power supply is concerned. They don’t have such a chip to do the QC/USB PD negotiation, and ask for the necessary voltage. Hence, ‘smart Chinese sellers’ come up with “trigger devices” to tap into the rich set of voltages available from QC and USB PD chargers.
Just a quick note on Pine’s power supply. It’s huge, ugly. I don’t know guys at Pine is known for good PSU design. My advice is people can simply get a multi-port GaN charger from well known brands, and pair up with “QC/USB PD trigger devices”. These triggers come in various forms and could be as convenient as an integrated usb cable.
That’s probably all I have to say on this topic. Good luck
Not sure if others have mentioned, but I quite like PoE these days, have USB lights powered by them and the switch has scheduled on/off controls that’s really handy.
I am not sure that will do what you think it will do.
The USB-C connectors, might fit in the peripherals, but I’m not sure you want to be sending more voltage down USB cables than they are designed for.
What is the reasoning in the back end?
Wanting to save space, or to convert stuff to USB?
If USB, you Might be able to find versions of hte devices that un nativley on USB.
then just run one powered USB hub to the cabinet / box that will house them.
Otherwise, line voltage into the cabinet, and one of the 12v DC power supplies Tim mentioned, with a buck / step down converter to any devices needing 5v power?
There was a project last year where someone made an awesome all-in-one box:
but it was not USB
If o go with this kind of cable then it doesn’t matter if it’s usb2 ?
http://is.gd/create.php?format=simple&url=https://www.amazon.se/gp/product/B0B1D9HG1T/ref=sr_1_26?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_ET32G4H3Q97TVKYSBGXK
Just to recap a bit.
This is the board I’m planning to use get 2 or so.
If I use the board from above and use a
usb-a to type c and use kind of dc plug
“If now it’s correct size/volt
http://is.gd/create.php?format=simple&url=https://www.amazon.se/dp/B09TW781BN?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_7MA1YFYAH3RFQPCJXW8A
But I can do it with a psu and breakout board it like to build stuff they might be stupid still fun
It is to save space less cables from different spots.
This board seems interesting as well cost twice as much.
http://is.gd/create.php?format=simple&url=https://a.aliexpress.com/_msM2tJG
Aren’t USBC charging mode negotiations an analog process? Basically a resistor on both ends where the resulting pin voltage determines charging mode? Or is QC a more complicated process?
I think that USB can go to 30 volts with this year specs.
This is the old way and super unreliable. So dumped into rubbish bin. Now it requires two silicon chips to do the handshake.
If you want to transmit/receieve data through the USB ports as well as just power devices, you might just want to stick with powered USB hubs designed for such a purpose.
For poweing wifi devices, you might want to look at PoE.
Check out the Box-of-Everything @Trooper_ish linked to.
It uses a single mains power (120/240v AC) to 48v DC power brick for its input then 2 step down DC to DC converters to drop the 48v DC down to 12v DC to power the modem and 5v DC to power a raspberry pi. The DC to DC converters I used in the project can be adjusted to output anything from very low volatge up to 60v out, as long as you do not exceed the power bricks rated output capacity (amps) you will be good to go.
The Box-of-Everything has been working flawlessly since I built it and it now runs a portable recording studio with 7 cameras as well as wifi and a home assistant on the RP4.
There is a down side to running everything from one power source, and that is realibility. If something goes wrong, your whole setup will fall over.
For a lot of people, good power boards and some cable managment goes a long way. I hope this helps!
PAWS
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