Hey just a heads-up, if that’s one of those automotive-style batteries and not a rackmount one, you may want to keep an eye on it for overheating or loose terminals. Those larger low-voltage packs tend to have dubious build quality compared to the 24V or 48V ones.
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Its an Eco-worthy 12V 400AH Metal Case LiFePO4. I torqued the cables to their proper specs. But it’s my first time using a LiFePO4 that size. So i have been keeping a close eye on it.
I might do a 48v system in the future. But those seem more complicated. And more dangerous if you get them wrong. And i would want to connect them to my house as a full backup if i go that route. 
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No real difference in 48v over 12v in application. Just the wires can be smaller with 48v.
That maybe true. But it’s harder to find a 48v inverter/charger combo that can plug into a standard 110v outlet. Which was the reason i went with a 12v. I didn’t want to install a dedicated outlet to charge the battery. I wanted a mostly plug and play system. However i guess i could have just modded a UPS to do the same thing.
The 48V stuff is more targeted to off-grid and higher power side so that makes sense. So they would exceed what a 120v outlet can do. Many of the better inverters/chargers can be programmed with an input breaker size. So they will never draw over X amount of amps from the AC source.
I second that!
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Vou could adapt the following UPS project to 110V or 220V.
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replace the unit. it being that old, get a better one that uses better battery tech.
I was looking at a 48v rack mount inverter by the brand AIMS. But i couldn’t find any reviews on it. And i never heard of the brand before. But it did convert 48v batteries over to 120v. But it was expensive.
I have a 12V AIMS inverter/charger. Very nice build quality. I have it hooked up to an AGM car battery as a backup for my fishtank.
Something like this but for sure only 1250 watts. I don’t think they spec out a transfer time, so I’m hesitant to use it on my computers. I seem to recall that the pumps on my aquarium sputter a little when the power cuts over, so probably no bueno for a UPS.
Edit: I can’t recall if it was this expensive when I bought it, but I also bought a smaller unit, several years ago. For sure I wouldn’t pay $800 for a fishtank backup. I think the rating is for continuous power, so that is worth something.
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