I’m only considering moving to another platform because Nikon has some nuances with different types of lenses in terms of compatibility that go beyond just the mount. I don’t know how aware are you of them, but they have like at least 3 ways of autofocusing. There’s AF-D, which has this kind of like flat head screwdriver connection so the body does the focusing. There’s also AF-S, which has the focusing motor built in and you can manually focus that lens on any body; AND then there’s AF-P, which uses electronic signal to instead tell the motor how to focus. the difference between AF-S and AF-P is that the latter can’t even be manually focused on a camera body if it doesn’t support it, while AF-S can be manually focused on anything, even if not attached to a camera. Both my current body and the D610 lack the support for AF-P, which is the newer standard, making it kind of harder to find a compatible lens. Sorry for the wall of text, it’s just something that has driven me crazy for past year.
Do it, but I still recommend that you take multiple shots to get rid off most of the noise.
Huh? I’ve never heard of that technique. I know that astrophotography uses flat frames, which are about 50% gray. I think they’re mostly made to help remove the vignetting, but don’t quote me on that. Generally the multiple exposures work by having a composition with constantly same data or close to it. Since the noise pattern is always different, filtering it out with median stacking will pretty much dissolve the noise.
Yeah, that sounds like a nightmare and a half to figure out what lense to get for the job. I didn’t want to invest FF money into a new camera so I got a Fuji X-S10. Decided to get in the easy way.
I will!
Why am I like that…I meant to talk about DARK frames! A white frame it’s just all 255 and doesn’t add any information. You’re much smarter than me!
How do you like the Fuji? I was interested in that platform as well at some point.
I don’t quite remember, what dark frames do. Weren’t they mainly for removing hot pixels? I’ve tried to subtract the hot pixels before but they still remove some funky artifacts more often than not.
I think it’s great. I didn’t hit any walls when it comes to functionality against my skills and the amount of first party lenses is huge. Some are less good than others but you’ll never gonna buy one you’ll regret. It’s not a professional camera, doesn’t support the fastest SD cards, can’t record indefinitely at 4K, no 4K 60fps, it’s not water resistant (should not be used when it’s raining) but all of these things have never been a limiting factor for me.
If you want to look at some RAW shots let me know. Or just scroll back a bunch in the forum, I uploaded some.
It can also do that. Along side giving a noise map for noise reduction.
Ahh… they capped the X-S10 in a couple ways for video?
I have the X-T4 and that one can do the (DCI) 4K at 59,94 fps and I expected the X-S10 to be able to do that as well because they share the same sensor.
In that case it doesn’t really matter that it doesn’t support UHS-II cards, because it doesn’t need the added speed for the recordings.
But yeah… There are lovely options in the 1st party lens line-up from Fuji!
More than enough for me as well. I don’t really want to go into the heavy full frame lenses, which is a major reason why I switched from Nikon to Fuji. With Nikon I felt like if I wanted something better than a kit lens, I’d have to go full frame. But those lenses get heavy so fast…
Yeah. It can do 4K DCI @30fps for 30 minutes at the time. Past that the camera is scorching hot and warns you that it’s gonna shut off. Mind you I experienced it the summer heat. I don’t know how it would fair in winter or even outside while shooting for 30 minutes straight.
But at DR400 the video is incredibly good with almost no editing required so I’m happy with that.
I was wondering if I should get one just for faster transfers. Maybe it’s just me always going for the best of the best
I think I inadvertently struck gold with the 55-200mm. Still wondering if I should get the 10-24 or the 16-55 or 23 for portraits. In my ideal world I’d just buy them all hahaha
Sounds great! A friend of mine borrowed me his Sony A6000, which isn’t weather sealed either, but I’ve seen people take it out during some pretty rough weather. I’d rather not try it myself, given that it’s not mine and I don’t want to pay for it
I’ve also “drowned” my D3200 with some snow and high humidity as well. It’s not much but it’s something I would’ve felt very uncomfortable with few years ago.
I’ve bought only 1 lens for my Nikon that I was sort of disappointed about, but more so because I don’t find the focal length very useful for my type of shooting. It’s much less of a fault of the lens itself.
I’d be delighted to see some shots, sure!
I should honestly give it a try.
I feel you. My 70-300 FF lens is quite… heavy. Feels like I’m working out when carrying it.
So… around 25℃ outside and 70~80% humidity?
That hasn’t posed any issues for me with the couple short films I’ve recorded. Though I honestly don’t care too much about it. If filming wasn’t an option at all, I wouldn’t mind at all.
Yeah… I’ve got the 16-80 F4, which is a great all-rounder for me. But I would like to get some more tele range. I’m saving up for the 70-300.
I’ve also been eyeing that 10-24 F4 lens, but for now I’ll want tele more than wide
Yeah, I get that. I’ve held some nice full frame bodies and lenses and the results are awesome. But if I had to carry around that bulk, I wouldn’t shoot photos at all.
And no, a phone just isn’t an alternative… the feeling is just completely different. The whole tactility of a camera, especially the X-T range from Fuji with all their dials, are what makes the process of taking pictures fun. If you cut that out, I don’t see any need to make photos at all.
Oh yeah carrying all that weight around is a nightmare, especially during summer when it’s really hot. I generally don’t like using my phone for photos at all. Neither my current one or the last one work with Open Camera app, thus I’m missing out on slower shutter speeds. Not to mention the dynamic range or zoom lenses. The sharpening of default apps tends to be really bad as well, almost making your images looking like watercolor.
I’m generally happy with my Nikon in terms of tactile feel. It would be nice if aperture was on its own dial as well but it’s by no means necessary.
There is a D7100 on sale here at a second hand market. I swear there was D7200 as well but it’s not there anymore. the D7100 goes for 320€ with 2 batteries and M42 adapter for lenses. I am kind of tempted, but it’s not marginal enough upgrade IMHO. It does offer autofocus for AF-D lenses, as well as having built in timelapse and AE bracketing. Also has quite a bit better battery life, dynamic range and ISO performance. I’m still dreaming of that D610. One day…
I don’t know if you ever tried them, but some Nikon lenses do have the aperture ring on them, BUT the camera has you set the aperture to highest number and you control it electronically instead. I recently thrifted a Nikon film body along with 4 lenses and found out about it that way. Such a tease.
I haven’t tried those kind of Nikon lenses…
But if I were to go Nikon right now, I would dive into the mirrorless options and not bother with adapting those old ones anyway.
The second hand full frame bodies are at pretty decent price right now and my money is kind of tight. If I knew the FTZ adapter would work well with my lenses, I would consider going with Z50, just maybe.
Photography gear isn’t really a cheap part of this hobby
I was lucky to get a good couple hundred for my old body & lenses and got a nice payout when I left my old job. Otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to afford the X-T4 set I got.
I really love the convenience of mirrorless over a DSLR though. I wouldn’t go back even if I got some great gear in return.
In my experience the only drawback is a bit shorter battery life. But that hasn’t posed a problem for me yet. And I could just recharge on a USB-C battery bank to fill up on the go if I needed to.
The Z50 does seem like a nice option. It’s about €850 new or around €700 used (in prime condition) here. And an FTZ adapter would cost another €200 to €290 (depending on the model). That’s quite a steep entry if you’re budget isn’t that big.
@MetalizeYourBrain
I did some audio/video work for my old job; managed the technical side of a recording studio. Got to play with a bunch of Panasonics there. We could easily feed them into a mixing panel for live broadcast and cut out on a lot of editing work for recordings.
Learnt a lot, but also that I didn’t like that whole thing for myself
I had a 55-300 for my old Nikon, I really love the range. So I’m looking forward to getting something like that again. And I do like that those newer Fuji lenses are all properly weather sealed, because rain and high humidity are pretty much unavaidable here. Eyes the current 97% humidity
That wide lens seems great, but I do think that I’d use such a thing a lot less than the standard or tele ranges. I’ve done some stitches to create wider views. They’re awesome and I’d do them more often if they weren’t such a pain to get right…
Z50 goes 1000€ here. and the first gen FTZ adapter goes for 260, second gen is only 20€ more(if it makes any difference.) That’s pretty much running for 1280 in total already for me if i were to go brand new. I haven’t seen anything Nikon related on sale here for second hand and I don’t really trust ordering abroad, or more so I’m not really up to dealing with a problem if anything came up that way.
I honestly don’t feel the difference between mirrorless and DSLR. My experience is between D3200 and Sony A6000. Sony still has mechanical shutter so the noise is there. My friend has vintage lenses on it and having peaking through viewfinder is nice, as well as real time changes in preview for aperture. I still tend to grab my Nikon. It might be that I don’t get along with the interface of Sony, it might be the focal length of the lenses or all of the above. I can’t really pinpoint my gripe with it.
Also for some reason I can’t get the intervalometer to work on the Sony the way it needs to work. It takes 1/10 second shots in between the ones I want, thus cancelling every second shot. Might just be defective gear though.
I saw Sony A7 II with a 28-70mm kit lens on sale for just under 1000 few months ago, brand new. I really wish I went for it, but money was tight and still is. But it could’ve potentially been very good purchase.
The 70-300 has even more reach due to crop factor! A friend recently got it and it’s an amazing piece of kit. Barely larger than the 55-200, if at all!
Luckly yeah. And you don’t pay significantly more for it.
I took a couple photos with it and the look at 10mm is so goood! It’s wide almost distorted but if you look in the corners is not. Though it’s not as sharp as the 16mm I have.
That’s why I wanted a wide lense. It would also save me time when I’m out shooting for whatever reason. I could get a single shot and, if the time allows, the necessary shots to try and make a stupid detailed one.
I’ve held some Sony bodies and they just don’t work well for my hands. And the menu system is an abomination (haven’t seen the new one yet though).
For me the biggest advantage is seeing the actual final product in the EVF as opposed to trusting the metering on a DSLR. I really love the direct feedback of turning the dials and seeing the changes. That’s the main reason for me to have switched systems to Fuji.
And I mostly use the electronic shutter, even though the mechanical one of the X-T4 already is so silent… When I’m in a quiet area like a botanical garden, it still feels too loud
