Mechanical Keyboard Corner

gg Vortex. The QC on some of their keyboards have been abysmal whenever they’re in a quick production run. My ViBE has 2 non-functioning keys at the bottom row upon arrival, of which I’m not somewhat concerned about. But here’s the biggest one that is critical to the keyboard’s functionality.

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Yep. You saw it. The USB port just crusted off like nothing. The repair job might seem feasible but the difficulty is in question. At this point, I’m not sure what I do here, since I wouldn’t know if there’s any warranty on it. Bought it from Drop, when they had a drop on this device, just in case anyone wants to know.

TBH, this is a very portable and nice keyboard, and I would hate it to go to waste or selling it as non-functioning.

Massdrop are good about replacing defective stuff.

You could repair it, not super easy but not too hard either if you have soldered before and have a desoldering kit.

Plenty in the mech communities could fix it so they might buy it if you decide to sell it.

I’ll probably ask them first. People have complained about QC issues in the past and mine’s one of them.

Again, it is a very nice keyboard and I don’t want to sell it. But the quality issue strikes me. For example; have you ever hard of a case where a user tries to pull a keycap but they ended up pulling off the switch stem as well?

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That is an issue with my Uniqey C70, never bothered to ask support about it.

[Edit]
I’m planning to replace this new mold mx clears anyway. They’re just shit

The MX Clears on mine feels authentic to type on. Too bad the normies of many well-known manufacturers don’t include this option a lot.

I’m looking into just repairing the board. I got some decent soldering skills, but one thing that is killing me is my soldering iron collection doesn’t fit in too well. Like one would have the perfect fine tip but a very weak power output, while the other one has a scorching power output but the tip would be too big for small electronics repair/DIY job.

Vortex bought a bunch of old mold MX Clears, so they are the only source of good ones now

First time I ever head of TTC switches. They are very thin.

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Interesting, the first I saw of them was as another MX clone. Low profile switches are getting popular though, this looks like another clone, but I forget of what.

Edit: I remember now, they also have funky all orange switches, housing and stem. That’s how I saw them first.

Are they “Choc” clones?
https://www.kailh.com/en/Products/Ks/CS/

So here’s a question…
I spilled a soda on my keyboard. I drained it, opened it up and it turns out the plate on the top is full of holes.


So I opened it up and it turns out I can’t separate the PCB from the plate. The switches are holding them together.

I am 97,3 % sure the soda has gotten between the plate and the PCB where I can’t clean it up.

So the question is, what can I do?
The only thing in my head is just run it under tap water and let it dry a few days…
Is there other way?

PS: I would also like to point out 2 years later my 35€ keyboard keycaps are in absolutely pristine condition, compared to some people who buy 150$ keyboards and replace their caps in 6 months.

A friend of mine spilled a soda on his laptop once…pulled the battery and aired it out overnight, still works years later. I don’t think there’s any need to “clean off” the sugar etc, as long as the board’s dry it should probably work. If you want to clean it anyway I’d probably use isopropyl instead of water. Keep it upright and point a fan down the length of the assembly until it’s dry.

And yeah, there’s no way to separate the place and board without desoldering the switches. Are those caps the weird plasti-dipped kind?

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Not really sure… It looks like they are painted transparent plastic and the letters and numbers are left unpainted and then there are some extra stuff like arrows and what not, that seems to be painted on top…

I’m just worried… I rather wash it off…

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this is why i keep two keyboards, i have three times spilled Red Bull on my keyobard, The fix for me was filling a bucket full of water, puting the entire keyboard in, And then after a few hours turn the keyboard (becose it is longer then the bucket is high). So the entire keyboard gets soaked.

A few hours after that i put it on my heated bathroom floor and let it lie there upside down for more then 24hours.

The keyboard im typing this on has experienced that twice. And the last time was about two years ago.

Good Luck.

PS: i have had several years of electronics in school, unless your keyboard is super special and has condensators in it, Wich will be empty after a few dayes anyway, or batteries that you for some reason decided not to remove, You are fine.

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Oh yes… I have my lovely CM Devastator. I love that cheap garbage. But I love my mechanical as well…

Honestly that was kinda my idea as well…

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On that note, i just ordered my first mechanical keyboard, i’m quite excited :slight_smile:
But i’m worried it is not great, Since it is some local scandinavian brand. But worst case scenario i will trade it for some Noctua Fans

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And if for any reason some of the switches are sticky after cleaning, some contact cleaner will fix that.

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You have to desolder all the switches to get the plate off (I did this recently to clean a board).

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I literally bought the cheapest keyboard I could find - Natec Genesis Thor 300 with Outemu red switches and white LEDs…
The keyboard is nice. I still love my devastator but honestly I like the mechanical. I can’t say it’s a huge difference but there is a difference and there is adjustment period, especially if you have linear switches.
Expensive doesn’t always mean good. Good means good.
What do you have?

Yeah, I’m not doing that… Not that big fan of doing those kinds of stuff…

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How do they feel?

any tips on an ergonomic pcb for mechanical keyboards? I’ve seen ergodox, however they are flat, I prefer angled like on the old microsoft ergo 4000:

https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/products/keyboards/natural-ergonomic-keyboard-4000/b2m-00012