Yeah, decent noise gates, good distance from the mic if possible.
And like @SgtAwesomesauce said Zilents or other interanly silenced switch will do a lot. I have the Zilents and the U4 Boba, I love both, I prefer the tactile profile of the U4.
Can also put foam or padding in the bottom of the case and under the board to stop the transfer through to the desk.
RTX voice and having a mic close to my mouth helps, it doesnāt activate unless i talk and it even filters out my AC.
cherry reds + O-rings VS cherry red silents
iām impressed
Got some more switches on the mail today, with Aliexpress coupons i got these for dirt cheap and they feel preeeety good on the hand , I think Iām gonna use them on my ID80, instead of the Akkos i originally intended to use.
Bought all the parts for my āendgameā, at least i hope as it is a bit more expensive than i kind of budgetted.
Case/PCB: YMDK Melody 96 Black/Blue with Aluminum underside and brass weight, with hot swap ANSI layout.
Switches:Keebwerk Bushi, from my testing they come out above some of the other tactiles like pandas/zealios/zilents (i have 10 different tactiles)
Keyset: already have them (ordered last year) PBT Infinikey Amalfi
( https://prototypist.net/products/group-buy-infinikey-amalfi )
Other stuff:
Durock screw in stabilizers
Switch films (only a couple of euro and it might be needed)
Foam padding for under the plate
I know iāve kind of gone off the deep end with the keyboard stuff, letās just call it a hobby?
My biggest issue with some of the other tactiles is that the electric actuation point is a bit lower than the ābumpā, as i get more used to a keyboard i wonāt press as hard and then donāt bottom out. sometimes i get double clicks and sometimes it wonāt activate. Also, i like having a tactile bump right away instead of a ādeadā zone.
I have this. I do wish there was a gap separating arrows and numpad from the main typing area, and lock lights would be nice. It can be difficult to home. High contrast key caps help.
They donāt fit all switches just FYI. They didnāt physically work in my holy pandas. Iāve mostly seen them used on gaterons and I think they work with stock cherry.
Yo
YO
I want.
Itās cool, but Iām not sure what Iād do with it.
Waitā¦ is that starting to matter in this hobby?
I just have too much crap that sits idle.
I feel both these repliesā¦ Deep.
Macros
So many macros
i took my corsair k60 with dead/failing ASDF keys mostly apart, tested the switch contacts with multimeter, they seem fine. tested the diodes around the A-F keys, they seem fine too.
any suggestions? i only have access to the bottom side of the circuit board right now, if i need to take every switch apart to separate the circuit board from the aluminum top plate iām done with it.
i donāt specifically know how the K60 is built, but generally it could be an issue with the matrix. How do they fail? does it also fail when using other buttons in the same row/column?
the ASDF keys began intermittently not working just normal typing. within a couple hrs or less of trying different things to see if i could nail down a pattern to make them fail or work, they stopped working completely. There was a lot of dust and debris in the tray so there could be a very slim chance that just finally cleaning out the crud could fix it? i dunno, might try putting it back together just enough to test later today.
Yes, yes you would.
Plate mount boards suck to service.
Unless hot swap. Still not super easy but much better.
Raspberry pie built into model m?
coughs
