Vortex Race 3 keyboards back in stock. 75% layout, PBT DSA keycaps. I saw MX Browns, Clears, and Reds as an option. They may have more, but I didn’t check because I only care about Browns.
I saw the story in my Facebook feed, but it was for another site. Checked Amazon, and they’re there too. I meant to order one the last batch they put out, but I hesitated and then by the time I decided they were sold out. Made sure to scoop one up right away this time.
There are more now, afaik: G910, G810, G Pro, G310 and K840.
But they share one common thing, they’re all Logitechs, i wouldn’t believe a keycap company would invest in such a select group of buyers, kinda like MiTo once told me, the only reason he doesn’t design Romer G and buckling spring sets is due to the general lack of customers, there’s just not enough people interested in buying these sets to justify such an effort.
So, switches, Gateron or original Cherry?
I’m done with the browns on my Anne Pro, i barely need to touch them for activation and that’s no bueno, i need something heavier, preferably linear.
I was thinking about getting some Gateron blacks or yellows and putting 67g or 80g springs on them, what do you guys think?
I never unsoldered and resoldered switches to keyboards, but i’m gonna wing it, i mean, how hard can it be?
I have finally bought a mechanical keyboard. I have gone to stores for the sole purpose of grabbing one, but I could not justify paying $100+ (CDN) for a keyboard.
So I saw a budget board in PCPP the other day. The original price slots the board in the $100+ range, but was on sale for $30… Canadian. At $30, I felt okay purchasing a mechanical keyboard… so I did.
They switches are not Cherry MX, they are Kailh (Blue). 50 grams of actuation force and 4mm of distance needed to strike a key. Windows Key lock is about as fancy as the board gets (…and play/pause/volume fn options).
The first thing I noticed was the weight of the board… this thing is heavy (2.7 LBS). All the keys feel sturdy, and so far all of them work. The caps are not injection molded, so the paint will wear off eventually… at $30… I don’t really care.
Is there anything I should look for in a mechanical board? It feels nice so far. The rubberized pads underneath feel good and the extendable feet are also rubberized.
Things to.look for are largely personal preference, but they include things like the layout (ANSI, ISO, JIS, DVORAK, COLEMAK…), switch (linear, tactile, clicky, silenced and their weights), board size (40%, 60%, 75%, TKL), case (milled acrylic, sandwiched layers, milled aliminium, wood), case colour, programmability, lighting (yes/no, static colour, RGB, per key colour setting, underglow…), modability (plug in mods, soldering, hot swap switches and so on), key plastic (ABS, PBT, POM), key legend style (pad printed, dye sub, double shot, shine through, blank), key colour and colour schemes. Oh and cables.
Pretty much any aspect of the vaord can me modified to your taste.
The easiest and most instantly gratifying is key caps. I like colourful, blank PBT but also have more normal lettered keys on other boards.