the ASDF keys began intermittently not working just normal typing. within a couple hrs or less of trying different things to see if i could nail down a pattern to make them fail or work, they stopped working completely. There was a lot of dust and debris in the tray so there could be a very slim chance that just finally cleaning out the crud could fix it? i dunno, might try putting it back together just enough to test later today.
Yes, yes you would.
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Plate mount boards suck to service.
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Unless hot swap. Still not super easy but much better.
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Raspberry pie built into model m?
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coughs
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This is one of the most mad scientist things I’ve ever done.
Oh an zork text to speech without a display connected.
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the keycaps arrived from china woo. i’m disappointed with the pink legends/lettering of both of these sets. They do not appear to be hot pink or neon pink IRL. i would classify almost all of the pink on black of the neon set as low contrast with the only exception being the arrow keys and those are more of a mid contrast. the blue on black of the midnight set are pretty high contrast and match my expectations set by pictures of the neon keycap set. the neon set has no keys that match what i thought they would be going by the pictures on akko’s website.
the difference between the pictures and what i’m seeing with my own eyes is so stark that i started to wonder if there was some photographic trickery going on with the website’s pictures. the amazon review pictures prove me wrong tho. there’s no way that every review pic there of the neon set was altered to boost the color of the pinks, this must just be the way she goes.
so i was gonna take a picture of the keycaps i have in front of me to show the difference… and to my horror, the pinks look neon to my moto G6’s camera.
i would also classify the blue on dark purple caps in the neon set as low contrast and not what i expected from looking at pictures. even tho i like the blue on black keycaps from the midnight set, they’re still a bit lower contrast than the yellow on on dark grey and dark blue black caps that came with my keyboard.
sad!
also one of the novelty key’s stem is missing a wall at the end of one of the cross ends, the same one in both sets that looks kind of like a animal paw. just like the pic below from one of the amazon reviews. the keycaps that have this defect don’t sit very securely on the posts that are in the plastic box they come with and probably wouldn’t sit securely on my keyboard either. not a huge deal since it seems to be just the one novelty cap but man, once i notice one thing i don’t like i’m gonna mention every little thing i find lol.
edit
pic from my A6000 with everything set manually gets pretty close to what i see with my eyes. the INS|HOME cluster is the most/very accurate to how i see these pink legends that i thought were going to be more contrasty and ‘neon’ ish.
maybe they might look better in a brightly lit environment but that’s not my style.
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If you are worried about then cap being secure on a stem a little cling film or seran wrap on the stem should take up the slack.
i think for the missing wall on a cap stem that making the key stem bigger wouldn’t help much, could still slide off/around because it’s missing a wall. maybe wrapping tape of some kind around the cap stem would help tho. maybe i should test that…
popping it onto a switch it seems to be just fine. the case that came with the caps has only the vertical part of the cross, not a horizontal part, so it slides right off of that.
also putting the cap with missing wall on the stem in the cap case the wrong way works too.
In that case it should be fine on an actual switch.
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In case it’s useful or interesting to anyone, I just finished scanning my copy of the first edition of the IBM Keyboard Operator’s Guide from December 1992 (SA40-0749-0, P/N 1370430).
It’s not an in-depth technical document (as the title should imply), but it’s still a cool snippet of history and will give you an idea of the sort of documentation IBM once supplied for its Model M keyboards. One of the more interesting things about it is (if I’m not mistaken) is one of the earliest references to the IBM Model M5-2 (Model M with an integrated trackball on the top-right corner) keyboard.
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Updated my apple style Japanese caps. Trading Katakana for Hiragana and correctly italicised legends.
Old caps:
Now I can think about dyeing one of the sets into an new version of Borderline layouts possibly for an 1800 again… Hmmm we will see.
Also saw a Lofree from Xiaomi. Looks great for a travel board. So many boards…
It seems to come with stickers for “personalisation” but it is aimed right at me, my entire portable set up is stickerbombed. It is taunting me.
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Consolidated most of my keeb stuff into one place.
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Anyone have a good recommendation for keymapping software for Windows 10? I was wanting to have FN+ W A S D keys act as my arrow keys, but the Razer Synapse software for the Huntsman Mini won’t allow that because they have already set the Fn + W to act as volume up and won’t let you change it. [The ‘FN’ key is what they call their Hypershift key which doesn’t register as anything on its own when pressed.]
I was hoping to use the Application key as a sort of second Fn key, I remapped it to be ‘F24’. Now I need a software that will allow me to map ‘F24’+ W A S D to act as arrows.
Apart from the razersoftware it is probably not possible. maybe if you can rebind it to someting that can be rebound again with authotkey?
That portable keyboard actually looks really cool, altough i really don’t need it…
Working on lubing and filming my switches, i didn’t expect it to be this tedious, and i also broke one switch by putting the stem in backwards 
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Yeah, it sucks
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I wouldn’t want to do it, but I foresee myself heading down that path eventually. Make sure I’ve got plenty of time to kill, and a good podcast to listen to…
I’ve got silent Alpacas on the way, that I hope are good enough out of the box.
I hadn’t heard of AutoHotKey until yesterday after my post. I think that’s going to be the ticket. Going to check it out this evening.
