Living with BEV's in the United States in 2025: What is it like?

I was surprised to not find a thread to this effect here already, so I guess it falls upon me to create it.

Because there are so many keyboard warriors out there either praising the EV experience, or spreading unfounded fears about it, I figured we could try to have a civil and non-political discussion about the realities of living with the Battery Electric Vehicles of today.

What brings me here?

Well, in a matter of two weeks we went from a three ICE vehicle household (Mine, Hers + backup hauler) to a two BEV, one ICE vehicle household, and I’ve certainly learned a lot in the last few weeks since that happened, so I figured it would be fun to share and compare.

Firstly, our vehicles.

Hers:

2025 Volkswagen ID.4 Pro S AWD with optional larger 82kWh battery:

Mine:

2025 Audi A6 E-Tron Quattro (100kWh):

Both are very nice vehicles. It was driving and riding in hers that also convinced me to consider electric vehicles.

The VW has an estimated US EPA range of 263 miles. The Estimated range for the Audi A6 E-Tron Quattro is 333 miles.

The smoothness and quietness of these vehicles in operation is spectacular. Once getting used to them, stepping back into my one remaining ICE vehicle (which admittedly is older at this point, but it is well maintained) feels like going back in time.

I’ve learned there is a reason most BEV’s are SUV’s or cross-overs (in addition to the fact that this is what the market demands these days).

At least with the A6 on Audi’s PPE (Premium Platform Electric) platform in a Sedan (or Sportback as it were) configuration, you wind up sitting a bit higher than most are used to in conventional sedans, due to the battery being in the floor. This took some getting used to at first, and I am still not sure I am a huge fan of it, but it is a tradeoff I am willing to live with.

A lot of people have so-called “range anxiety” when it comes to battery electric vehicles. I have to admit, I was still a little bit uncertain about this part of electric ownership too, but the truth is I got over it really fast even before buying my own, just by experiencing my better halfs car.

For daily driving the range simply does not matter at all.

She drives approximately 9-10 miles each way to work 5 days a week with a few errands sprinkled in in between. It is rare she drives more than 35 miles in a day.

I drive even less these days. At least most days. My drive to work is slightly longer at about 13 miles each way, but being hybrid, I work most days from home. While I used to drive quite a lot when I was younger, sometimes 30k miles per year, these days I drive a whole lot less.

It is pretty rare either of us use more than at most 10% of our batteries in any given day. So even if we stay between 20% and 80% as is recommended in order to minimize the wear on the batteries, we can each get more than 6 days worth of driving without charging.

But that brings us to home charging.

I installed one of these chargers on our house:

So, we can charge when we are at home and parked, and with a 240v 40A Level 2 charger, there is more than enough charging capacity to charge from empty to 100% overnight should we want to. (though we never would)

A <10% of the battery daily drive worth of power, charging at home takes less than an hour on either vehicle.

In theory, you could just top it off every night, and have 80% (or more should you desire, at the cost of higher battery wear) available in the morning, every single morning and never have to stop anywhere to “refuel” again.

The convenience aspect of this is huge.

While people worry about the inconvenience of dealing with range and charge times, I’d argue that in daily life this worry is completely unfounded. Daily driving an EV is much easier and more convenient than daily driving an ICE vehicle. With an ICE vehicle you eventually have to go to a gas station and refuel. With a battery electric you never have to. You just drive home, plug in, and you are all set. You also never need to get an oil change, need brakes a lot less often (since most of the time you are using regenerative braking)

This is a huge quality of life improvement. Never need to stop to fill up, and rarely need to schedule appointments for maintenance.

In reality though, we do not charge every night. In an attempt to be kinder to the battery both of us have separately concluded that we’d rather minimize the number of charge cycles.

She prefers to drive the car until it has about 20% charge, and then charge it over night back up to 80%. With this strategy she winds up charging it about once a week.

I took more of an engineering approach and read up on all of the charge cycle and wear information on the site “Battery University”. Particularly they did a study where they compared different charge cycles (25% → 100%, 40% → 100%, 50% → 100%, 25% → 85%, 25% → 75%, 45% → 75% and 65% → 75%) and determined the number of charges each of those cycles it would take before the battery degraded to 90% of its original full capacity.

This became a little bit complicated because the different charge cycles would provide different amounts of miles, and a shorter charge cycle (like 65% to 75% would result in much less wear per charge, but it would also result in many fewer miles of range…

So, if you instead only charge when you need to, while each of those charge levels would result in more wear, you also have the fact that each of those charge cycles provide more miles, and thus you don’t have to charge as often, so there are fewer charge cycles.

Of the cycles Battery University tested, I analyzed the data and instead expressed it as number of miles driven until the battery reaches 90% capacity. This turns it in to a comparison between more, shorter charge cycles, and fewer longer charge cycles.

According my my calculations, of the cycles they tested, The 25% - 75% charge cycle, only charging when needed when it gets down to 25% produced the best results, with an estimated 478,688 miles before the battery is reduced to 90% capacity.

The worst was obviously the 25% → 100% charge cycle, which only - per my estimated calculations - would get me about 250k miles until the battery is down to 90% capacity.

Then also read up on the fact that for long term storage, it is best to get the battery down near about 40%, as this results in the least amount of storage wear. My assumption then was that there are two components to battery wear. Charging habits / use and time. If 40% is best for long term storage, it is probably also best at reducing the time component of battery wear even during daily use. So I decided to center my regular charging at about a 40% average by charging from 20% up to 60%, and then driving until I need to charge again. This results in fast charging, and very minimal battery wear.

All of this has also allayed my fears when it comes to battery wear. Even if I do worst case charging when it comes to battery wear, I should see 250k miles of driving before the battery capacity drops to 90% capacity. I’ve never put 250k miles on a single car. Have you?

My Audi came with a years worth of free DC Fast Charging through Electrify America. Because of this, I have decided for the first ear to just charge it at DC fast charging stations for free instead of charging at home where I pay for the electricity.

While we have yet to actually take either vehicle on a round trip drive longer than ~70 miles, charging at DC fast charging stations has given me a bit of insight what it might be like going for longer drives where I may have to actually charge on the road in this car.

But DC Fast charging worsens battery wear, right? Well, I thought that too, but it turns out it doesn’t really on modern EV’s.

This got lots of people scared because of early battery electric cars like in the first gen Nissan Leaf, which didn’t have much in the way of active cooling/heating and protection for the battery module, fast charging (and even regular charging) would cause the battery to heat up and exit the optimal charging temperature, which would rapidly result in battery degradation.

Luckily in modern EV’s, this is no longer the case. The cars will use their heat pumps and push coolant through the battery pack to bring it up to optimal charging temperatures before starting charging, or keep the 4temperature in check when it heats up during charging, in order to keep the battery pack in the optimal temperature zone for charging when DC fast charging, and this almost completely eliminates the accelerated battery wear from DC fast charging.

It is not without its downsides though. On hot days, the heat pump can sometimes not fully keep up with battery temperatures and when the heat pump can’t keep up and the battery gets too hot during charging, it will throttle the charging slowing it down to the point where the charging can still proceed without excessive battery wear.

My Audi - if connected to a charger that can deliver it, has the ability to charge at up to 270kW. This is quite a lot. Typical Electrify America DC fast charging stations can deliver up to 350kW, so my car can use most of that. If connected to a 270kW+ charger, Audi’s official specs for a 10% to 80% charge is only 21 minutes, which is kind of nuts.

Now for various reasons (limited power to the charger, hot day causing battery to run hot, etc.) you don’t always hit this max speed, but my real world results have been pretty favorable.

Today - for instance - but battery was down to about 25% do I decided it was time to charge. My closest Electrify America charger is at my local Walmart (about 4 miles from my house). I decided to take the opportunity to do some shopping and charge my car while I was inside.

The problem I ran into was quite the opposite one most people worry about when it comes to EV charging.

I set the car to charge to 60%, and went inside to start charging. 9.5 minutes later I got notified that the car was at 60% and done charging, and I had to return to the car and move it or risk being charged idling fees. So I had to stash my cart with its two items in it and go move the car, before coming back and continuing my shopping. Luckily the cart was still there when I got back.

Today the temperature was only about 80°F, and in these weather conditions the car was able to sustain its max charging speed for a 25% to 60% charge.

The previous time I charged at Walmart, I didn’t even bother leaving the car. I was just giving it a slight top-off. I had a work event to drive to the next day, and wanted it up at 80% just in case I needed to do more driving than anticipated. I was at just over 60%, set the charge target to 80% and plugged in. I expected this to take about 2.5 minutes, but in reality it wound up taking just over 5 minutes. Why? Well, it was 95°F out for starters, so the car was probably unable to keep the battery in the ideal zone, and throttling the charge speed on me a little.

Still, even on a hot day, I was able to add about 70 miles of range in about 5 minutes, which really isn’t bad.

Lets say at some point in the future, I am on my way home from a longer drive. I anticipated being able to make it on one charge, but lets say it was unusually cold out, and the heat pump consumed more battery keeping us warm in the car than I had planned, so I am running just short of enough juice to get home. I now know that even on a hot day, I can stop at a DC fast charger along the way for just 5 minutes, and add enough extra capacity to get me all the way home.

But if I really need to, I can stop at a charger while en route, and on an average day that isn’t really hot, expect to go from 20% to 80% in about 16-18 minutes, adding as much as 200 miles of additional range in that time, until I’d need to charge again at 20%.

So I’m pretty happy with these results, to the point where I probably wouldn’t be scared off from taking the Audi on a road trip if I had to. Though I haven’t actually taken a road trip longer than the ~120 mile each way drive to my parents house for the holidays in YEARS.

It’s not all sunshine and rainbows - however.

The reason I had to go to Walmart to charge today was because last night I had planned on doing the same at a different Electrify America charger at a nearby mall. My better half needed some cosmetics (or moisturizers or something, I don’t know, I’m a dude) so I asked her if she could get those at the mall, and she said she could, so we decided to make this a mall for cosmetics + dinner on a Friday night outing while allowing me to charge while we were inside.

When we got to the mall, I went to where the chargers are, and found that while there are 6 dedicated EV charging parking spots, there are only three chargers, and all the chargers were occupied.

We pulled into one of the empty EV spots and decided to enter the mall and look for her cosmetics while waiting for a charger to become available.

When shopping was done, we decided to go back to the car and charge it while eating dinner.

But when we got back, all three chargers were still in use. One of them was done charging, and had been sitting idle for 23 minutes accruing idling fees. But while the offending vehicle was done charging, you can’t just go up to a car and yank out the charger. They are usually locked until the owner removes them.

There was also a driver with some sort of Mercedes EV who hadn’t been there when we arrived the first time waiting to charge now, pacing back and forth around the chargers and waiting to be able to charge.

We decided it wasn’t worth waiting, and went on our way getting dinner elsewhere. But it seems underwhelming to only have three chargers for one of the states largest malls.

It also highlighted that these mall parking lot charging stations don’t have any kind of natural queuing flow when it comes to who’s next. I don’t even know what charging etiquette is like. Is it always first come first serve, or do I lose my place in the queue if I leave the car and go inside?

To be fair, the Mall did have a few other brands charging stations, but only Electrify America is free for me (for the first year) so I didn’t want to use those.

Anyway, so this experience taught me that there can be potential difficulties when it comes to charging on the go in a potential road trip scenario.

I can easily picture a big driving holiday (let’s say Thanksgiving) causing there to be a lot of traffic on the road, and chargers along your route being in use and unavailable. So while charging is better now than it was with older models, more capacity is definitely needed to meet demand.

I still plan on primarily using DC fast charging for my car for the first year (because who doesn’t like free “fuel”?) but honestly I expect my life to become slightly easier when I revert to charging at home like my better half does with her VW.

I guess in conclusion I’d suggest that EV’s are much more convenient than conventional vehicles when it comes to daily driving like commuting, driving to errands around town and the like, unless your driving for such purposes is excessive to the point where you would need more than the range your EV can provide on a single charge in a day.

As long as you stay under the max range of the battery, charging at home overnight with a level2 EVSE charger is just very convenient. If your driving is on the lower end of the spectrum (like ours) you can even get away with level 1 charging (standard plug, 120v 15A). It might take 6-7 hours just to charge from 70% up to 80%, but if you plug in whenever you are parked at home, you can absorb occasional longer drive days over several days of charging. You don’t need to hit your charging target target every night (though this might become an issue if trying to drive longer than typical distances more than one day in a row)

For road trips, as long as you pick the right car with high capacity DC fast charging charge speeds are much less of a concern than in the past. Audi tends to have high charging speeds. My A6 is 270kW. My better half’s VW is 170kW, so a bit slower. The Lucid Air can reportedly charge at 200kW-300kW (depending on equipment level). Teslas - depending on the model - can range from 250kw up to a reported 500kW (though I imagine keeping the battery cool at 500kW charging may be a limiting factor) and they also have more charger availability than others, though they are opening up their charging network to other brands which ought to help things)

The uncertainty is going to be chargers availability on busy driving holidays. I’m not sure if I’ll need to charge when I go to my parents house for Thanksgiving, or if topping it off to 100% before leaving will give me enough range to make it there and back (it depends on how much using the heat pump reduces range) but I guess I’ll find out at that time.

TLDR version:
So in conclusion I guess I’d say, it’s neither as doom and gloom as the nay-saysers would tell you, nor is it as fantastic as the BEV fans would suggest, but it is still quite nice.

The best part of it is during daily driving around town. Range is never an issue, and charging takes zero real time because you just plug it in in your driveway while sleeping and you start with 80% (or 100% if you want to wear you’re battery) every morning no matter what.

The worst part of it is probably for road trips. Charging speed has improved to the point where it is actually really fast (but still amusingly slightly too slow to just want to stand there and wait, yet slightly too fast to actually get anything of real value done while it is charging before you have to move it or pay an idle fee.

And on hot days, things might charge more slowly. This might be more of an issue if you live in a really hot climate. (I have only seen slowdowns when it is in the 90’s or above out)

Additionally battery degradation is a non issue unless you plan on putting over 250k miles on the car (and if you baby the battery, maybe not unless you plan on putting over 480k miles on it)

I will undoubtedly learn more over time, and will post back here with my experiences.

I’d also like to hear others experiences, tips and tricks, etc.

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Sorry about the weird edits, deletion and then resurrection of the thread.

I was having some strange issues with image corruption on upload which I still cant seem to figure out, but through several retries I eventually got it to work.

Not sure what is going on. I wonder if it has anything to do with me switching from Firefox to Librewolf.

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Thanks for sharing those experiences. What you described enforces my belief that a BEV as the only car is still unusable for me in PL. As a secondary daily it would be awesome, but also too costly with our income.

What I can see at our malls is mostly a single charger in the corner of the parking lot. Nobody uses them but when adoption in Poland starts it will be not enough. Chicken and egg problem, I know. Only the wealthy buy EVs and they all have chargers at home. Until the statistical employe can afford a new BEV from the dealer the electrification won’t take off.

I hope that when I’m able to afford a BEV all of it will improve to the point that it really will be more economical to own an EV instead of an ICE.

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It will be obvious later, but we’re in the US - Vermont specifically. Location matters a lot.

My wife has had a Chevy Bolt since early 2020, and I bought a Tesla model Y (long range AWD) at the end of 2023. The charging experience has changed over time, and it’s still pretty variable when you’re on the road. Broken chargers, wide disparities in cost, crowds/lines, etc. all contribute to less-than-stellar experiences on the road.

In the 5 years we’ve had the Bolt, we have only had to buy tires (one set of snow tires, one set of summer tires), and we had to do a brake job just this year. Total cost of service has been $1200 - we did get a replacement battery under warranty, so the battery is only 2 years old. I don’t count tires as service - every car needs those. The tires that came with the car were terrible - nothing to do with it being an EV, they just weren’t all that good. We’ve got about 45k miles on that car, and at least two seasons left on both sets of tires. Tire wear is probably a little higher than with other vehicles, but it’s nowhere near as bad as some people make it out to be. The Tesla has required no paid service in the 20 months I’ve had it, though there were a couple of minor issues that were fixed under warranty.

We have a level 2 charger at home, and my wife also has access to free charging at work. Here’s where things get very different for different people. We have a house, and I’m handy with electrical things, so it cost us next to nothing to install a charger. The charger was actually provided by our power company for free, and we could have gotten a second one for free when I got the second EV. We have a couple of special EV charging rates available here, and we chose one where we get a discount for “off-peak” charging. The rate saves us about 5 cents/kWh, so instead of paying $0.20/kWh we pay $0.15/kWh, as long as we charge overnight or on weekends. If we can’t charge at work for free, we end up paying between 3 and 5 cents per mile.

Interestingly, the home charging situation is different for my sister, who just got a used Bolt. She lives 8 miles away, but has a different power company, so the EV rates and rules are different. Her power is less expensive overall ($0.16/kWh standard, $0.08 for EV charging), but her off-peak EV plan requires all EV charging to be done off-peak. If she charges for 5 minutes during peak hours, she loses the off-peak rate for the entire billing cycle.

The way those rates are managed is through the charger, which is connected to Wi-Fi so it can talk to the power company. (That’s a requirement to get the lower rate) The chargers can be set to only charge during off-peak hours by default. You can override that by unplugging and re-plugging the car, and that override can be disabled as well.

Charging on the road is much easier with Tesla superchargers. The nav system tells you the charger max charge rates, the cost, and how many spots are expected to be open when you arrive. The car conditions the battery for the fastest charging while you’re on the way. Most of the other charge networks are kind of like debit cards - you put money into an account, and charging is paid from that account. When it runs low, you have to put more money in. With Tesla, you do need to have an account (with an associated credit card), but you don’t need to put money in the account, it just charges your credit card as you go, like at a gas station.

Charging speed is usually not an issue, even on a trip. The Tesla can do 250kW, but not for very long - like 5-10 minutes. That said, 6 minutes at 250kW is 25 kWh of charge, or about 100 miles. Plug in, stretch, pee and grab a snack, and you have another couple of hours of range. Lather, rinse, repeat. The Bolt has slower fast charging, only about 50kW, but that’s still fine. It gives time to get some food and relax a little while charging, so even though the trip takes a little longer, you generally feel better at the end. (It’s recommended that you stop every couple of hours anyway, for alertness and other health reasons)

I won’t get too deep into towing/hauling - EVs can work for this, but it really comes down to individual needs and worries.

One key thing to point out is that the charging landscape is excellent for homeowners, but not so much for renters. The cost of charging on the road is lower, but not much lower, per mile than typical ICE cars. Most charging networks charge between $0.32 and $0.45/kWh, which is about 8 to 10 cents/mile. That’s not far off from a reasonably efficient ICE car (gas prices are around $3/gallon right now, so maybe it’s 15 cents/mile, given that cars aren’t made for efficiency these days). For renters, or anyone who can’t charge at home (like if you don’t have a driveway), you still have to go somewhere to fuel up, and you’ll pay a lot more to do it.

I have seen a charger attached to a telephone pole. There was a QR code at eye level, which you could use to activate the charger and lower the cable (it was about 15 feet up the pole). With more of that kind of neighborhood charging available, things may change for renters - at least for convenience if not cost.

This may change in the future, but right now EVs are great for homeowners and maybe still good but not as great for others.

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This is a good point. EV’s are only cheap if you can supply the power yourself. Here in the netherlands I do have my own house, but normal houses don’t have their own garages here. There are only public charging stations, the one in my street costs 0.61 euro per kwh and 0.30 euro per hour that you are there (fast charging on the highway goes to 0.85 euro per kwh!). With the large battery version of the ID4 that is 52 euro per full charge. Buying that in gas costs 57 euro.

For now i went for an ICE car, because the electric cars are just incredibly expensive. paying 20.000 euro extra for an electric car that costs as much. At some point i will go electric, the government aim is to have everything electric by 2030 (that’s not going to happen!)

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Yeah, unfortunately they are not a cheap option.

We only wound up with ours because VAG has been running unbelievable deals in the U.S. lately.

Demand for EV’s has significantly softened in the U.S. over the last couple of years, and most manufacturers have had inventory that has been difficult to sell.

Couple that with that the new administration here is discontinuous the Federal Tax Incentives for EV purchases. You can still get up to $7,500 in a federal tax credit when you buy an EV, but that ends at the end of September.

So VAG made an aggressive push to get their EV’s off of their dealer lots starting in July.

Our vehicle purchases started primarily because my better half had been forced to purchase a new car in 2022, when some idiot hit her and totaled her old Toyota Prius she had had since 2007.

IN late 2022 when this happened, automotive supply chains were still all messed up from the pandemic. She shopped around for a replacement but was never able to find anything she wanted. The really weird part was that for a while there brand new cars were actually cheaper than used ones (I can’t explain that one at all, but it was what was happening) so after failing to find anything she liked, she eventually settled for a 2022 VW Tiguan. She always disliked that car, and felt kind of resentful that she had felt forced to buy it rather than get something she actually wanted.

So, when she had it in for service at the dealership last month, and they offered to buy it from her for more than she still owed on it, even though we both knew this was just a trick to try to get her to buy a new car, she was willing to entertain it.

And that’s when she found out she could lease the ID.4 with AWD and the larger of the two battery packs (82kWh) for just $390 per month for 3 years with a 12,000 mile per year mileage allowance. It almost seemed to good to be true.

We had never leased before, but just for shits and giggles we compared the lease on the ID.4 with a comparable lease on a brand new 2025 Tiguan, and the lease on the Tiguan came with almost twice as high of a monthly payment.

Normally I would have been opposed to leasing, as it used to be considered a terrible financial decision, but these days with the automotive landscape changing so fast that residual values are highly unpredictable, coupled with the fact that neither of us drive as much as we used to, it seems like a smarter decision than it used to.

…especially since you never know what battery or other inventions are coming over time making that brand new EV practically obsolete in 3 years time.

With the lease, if that happens, you just hand in the keys and move on.

Anyway, so that took owning our first BEV from impossibly unaffordable, to shockingly reasonable.

I still think the only reason this is, is that Volkswagen/Audi Credit is purposely over-estimating the residual values on leases.

When you lease, the leasing company is estimating how much the vehicle will be worth at the end of the lease period. They then finance you the difference between the new price and the residual value.

I suspect what they are doing right now in order to move these unsold BEV’s off of their lots is to vastly and intentionally over-estimate the residual values in order to artificially lower the cost to the lessee. This means that when it is time to turn in these cars at the end of the lease, VW/Audi credit will take a loss on the difference between the lease estimated residual, and the actual market value of the car, but that’s a VW/Audi credit in three years problem. That’s 12 Quarterly Earnings Reports away. it can probably be written off as an operating loss/tax shelter, and besides, It will probably be some other executives problem. :sweat_smile:

Either way, long story short, we got a great deal on the lease of that car, in part because of the $7,500 tax credit which is subtracted from the purchase price, and in part because of the crazy lease deals.

With this, us having BEV’s would likely not have happened.

A similar thing happened with the Audi.

After riding in the ID.4 as a passenger, and driving it a few times, I started to really like it, and because of that I started doing some research on what I could sell my existing car for.

It was a 2017 Volvo S90 T6 sedan with a Polestar package and only 45k miles on it. I had owned it since 2019 when I bought it with 16k miles on it. The pandemic and hybrid work arrangement I wound up with meant I was driving significantly fewer miles than in the past, so my 8 year old car which I had paid off in 2024 still looked absolutely fantastic, and had relatively few miles on it, which likely drove up the price.

They gave me enough for the Volvo that I could pay most of the cost of the lease on the Audi straight from what they gave me for the Volvo. The rest would pay for itself by not having to buy fuel and do maintenance.

I figured that in 3 years time the Volvo would likely be at that point in time where it gets awfully expensive to maintain, so I decided it was probably a good idea to move on, and the EV lease deal was too good to pass up.

So yeah, we are not the kind of people who can typically just go out and get two new cars on a whim, especially not expensive battery electrics, but the ridiculous lease deals made this possible.

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Definitely agree.

Like you, I am handy and capable with DIY stuff and electrical work, so I was able to run conduit from my panel through the wall out to where I installed my own charger, so that made it quite a lot easier for us.

Our town here in Eastern Mass has a Municipal Gas and Light company which had an offer to give away a free level2 EVSE charger, but it came with strings attached.

1.) You had to sign up for a plan that allowed the Power Company to remotely throttle your charging when their grid was at high load.

This made me a bit nervous. What if I really needed a charge when this happened or I would be stranded the next day?

2.) You had to have a licensed electrician install it. They would only give the EVSE charger to your licensed electrician with wire permit in hand. Having to hire an electrician would immediately take this from a reasonable cost to a completely unaffordable cost

So for those two reasons I passed on the free charger offer, and just installed my own. I wound up going with a Grizzl-E Smart 40A charger. I like it, but with hindsight being 20-20, I probably would have passed on the smart model and gone for the cheaper classic instead, as the smart model offers no feature I really need, offers very little useful data (other than usage tracking by date and kWh) which is nowhere near worth the potential privacy pitfalls of having a smart device on your network. (I did set it up on its own isolated VLAN though, so at least I am minimizing the impact)

Our municipal power company also has an off-peak charging discount per kWh, but the way they have it set up makes unrealistic for anyone to actually use, unless they do almost an industrial amount of EV charging.

They require you to install a second power meter on your home, branching off upstream of your existing meter. This second meter housing then gets a fancy digital meter from the power company and is then dedicated for your EV charging, and gives you a discount of 5 cents per kWh if you charge off-peak. They reassess what peak times are annually, but it has stayed at 4pm to 9pm since the inception of the program a few years ago. if you do charge during peak times, there is a peak time charging penalty that is many times larger than the discount. So the incentives make sense, shifting people away from peak times, and if you have a charging emergency you can still do it, but it will cost you.

The problem with this - however - is that having a second meter installed is expensive. it requires an electrician willing to deal with the main power drop, which is far from all of them and is usually the more experienced and more expensive ones. It would also require a service shutoff while the meter housing is installed.

They offer you a one time “up to” $1,250 credit if you have this done in order to offset this cost, but from the quotes I got, it would cost me between $4,000 and $5,000 to get the meter installed, so I would be out approximately between $2,750 and $3,750 up front in order to take advantage of this discount only to get a paltry 5 cents per kWh discount.

Per my estimates, we each use ~180kWh per month for our vehicles, so that’s a total of 360kWh per month for both cars, so the 5 cent discount would save us an estimated $18 per month.

Spending between $2,750 and $3,750 just to save $18 per month is nowhere even near worth it. I’m not even sure it would make sense if they gave the power away for free during off-peak hours. The payback would be so far out into the future to make signing up for the plan a fools errand.

So instead we just charge at the regular fixed rate.

Wow. Power in Vermont is surprisingly cheap, especially with the Time of Use discount.

Though, are those rates just the cost of the supply, or do they also include transmission, distribution and fees?

Our power in our town, thanks in large part to the municipal gas and light company is much cheaper than the rest of Massachusetts, but we still pay a lot more than that.

We have a $6 per month fee just to be connected, whether we use any power or not.

Then after that we get charged:

Distribution Charge: 0.0442/kWh
Energy Charge: 0.1633/kWh
Energy Conservation Charge: 0.0075/kWh

So in total (except the monthly fee) we pay about 21.5 cents per kWh.

If we did get the 5 cent discount, charging the cars would cost 16.5 cents per kWh.

Interesting.

We don’t have a garage at our current house either, but the Grizzl-E EVSE chargers are rated for outdoor installation, so there was no need for a garage. I just installed it on the corner of our house near the driveway.

But yeah, the public charging stations in Europe seem like they are priced unrealistically high. Even here they cost quite a bit more than the local residential electric rates, and that’s even after local cities and towns offered financial incentives to get the companies to install them…

That said, even when charging at home, I don’t think there is a financial argument in favor of electric cars.

You’d have to drive a lot in order to make the savings due to paying for electricity instead of fuel reach any kind of breakeven.

At least here in the U.S. where fuel is still relatively inexpensive.

At my local discount station, these are the current prices:

  • Regular fuel (87 Oct U.S., equivalent to ~92 Octane in Europe) currently costs us $2.81 / US Gallon (~ $0.74/liter USD)
  • Premium fuel (93 Oct U.S., equivalent to ~98 Oct in Europe) currently costs us $3.61 / US Gallon (~$0.95/liter USD)

Many people in Europe make fun of U.S. low octane fuel, calling it trash, but it is only because they don’t realize that octane is measured differently in the U.S. and Europe. There are two main methods to measure Octane. The Motor Octane Number (experimentally derived from a standard test motor) and the Research Octane Number (established using chemical lab testing). In Europe Octane at fuel stations is measured using the Research number or RON. In the U.S. we take the mean of the Motor (MON) number and the RON.

This results in the same fuel in the U.S. being labeled with a ~4-5 octane (usually closer to 5) lower number than in Europe.

The most common octane fuels in the U.S are:
- Regular (87 Oct)
- Mid Grade (89 Oct)
- Premium (most states, 91 Octane)
- Premium (some, mostly colder states 93 Octane)

So, the European equivalents here would be ~92, 94, 96 and 98 Octane respectively.

Anyway, I digress.

The main point here is that even with our relatively reasonable electric rates compared to most places in Europe, it is difficult to pay for the additional cost of a car with an expensive battery in it through fuel savings alone.

(It also helps explain why Americans are rather fond of their large vehicles, because it costs them so little to drive them compared to Europe)

Most of the difference is due to taxation. Europe reasonably taxes its fuel in an attempt to make drivers think about how much they are spending on fuel, and thus keep emissions lower. (though it did kind of back-fire and drive lots of people in many countries towards choosing comparatively dirtier diesel cars)

In the U.S. we have a small federal tax on fuel, but it hasn’t changed in over 30 years, and it was low by international standards even when it was set. All states charge an additional fuel tax on top of the federal rate, but even with those all U.S. states have lower gas taxes than in Europe.

And that is unlikely to change. Voting to add additional gas taxes in the U.S. at either the federal or state level would essentially be political suicide for any politician who chose to do so, both on the right and on the left (with the exception of in a few very secure strong left bastions)

Americans are simply irrationally sensitive to fuel prices. While people are more sensitive to inflation in food and housing costs today. Historically these non-fuel prices could dramatically rise over time, and almost no one would say anything, but even minor changes in fuel prices could bring down entire governments.

I have no idea how this came to be, and why we as a country are so different from the rest of the world, but I imagine it comes from a combination of identifying the large American car as an icon of what it means to be American, and a direct representation of high standards of living. Additionally, a large majority of Americans equate driving anywhere and everywhere they want, in a vehicle any size they want any time of day they want with fuel cheap enough that you never have to think about how much it is going to cost to drive there as an important part of their personal liberties, and any attempt to make this more expensive can be seen as a direct attack on their personal liberties.

I remember back in August 2005 after Hurricane Katrina wreaked havoc in Louisiana and caused fuel distribution disruptions briefly having to pay $4/gallon (the national average only hit $3 per gallon, but the northeast was apparently particularly susceptible to the post Katrina supply disruptions). The only reason I have such a strong memory of this was because I had recently been laid off from my first post college job, and was moving out of my apartment and back to my parents house with my tail between my legs. I had rented a U-Haul (a large national self move small truck rental company in the U.S.) to move my stuff back home.

With V8 engines, and the aerodynamics of the broad side of a barn, these trucks used a lot of fuel. I remember being a little bit overwhelmed at having to fill it up with almost 40 gallons of fuel at $4 per gallon.

That said, with my ordinary car at the time, it wouldn’t have been a big deal to me.

But I remember seeing people in the news being interviewed about the gas prices, and having them all give panicked looks, very worried about the cost of fuel. I remember one woman from a new segment who exclaimed “I don’t know what I am going to do. I am going to have to think about where I drive now!” Apparently she had never considered the cost of driving places before. Fuel was just cheap, so you didn’t have to.

And to be fair, I remember a few years earlier when I first moved back to the U.S. from Europe (1998) visiting a fuel station across the river from New York City in New Jersey, and the regular fuel there was 69 cents per Gallon. IN the years immediately after that That is kind of what people were used to.

I went to college in the U.S. after moving back here, and in my time in college in western Massachusetts regular fuel prices ranged from ~$1 per gallon in late 1999, up to a high of ~$1.45 per gallon in 2003 by the time I was graduating.

So, $4 per gallon in 2005 after Katrina was a bit of a shocker for some, even though it seemed laughable compared to European prices.

Anyway, I got completely side tracked on this one. My point was essentially, that with U.S. fuel pricing and electricity pricing, and considering how expensive BEV’s are due to their batteries, moving from an ICE vehicle to a battery electric vehicle almost never pays off from a financial perspective. You’ll never save enough money in fuel costs to pay for the difference in price between an ICE vehicle and an equivalently equipped BEV. You won’t even get close.

And this explains the relatively limited adoption here compared to many parts of Europe.

Some people want to do it because they see themselves as not wanting to harm the environment. Others want to do it because they love the technology. But no one in the U.S. is saving money by driving an EV. They aren’t even breaking even. They are paying much more to drive an EV than they would to drive an ICE vehicle, even with the tax incentives.

People have concerns about things like range, charging, battery longevity, etc. everywhere, but in many places were fuel is comparatively more expensive, these things might seem like a risk worth taking due to the fuel savings. But here in the U.S. many understandably view it as an increased cost, with lots of risk and no reward.

And that’s why electric adoption has mostly stalled here. Those who both want a BEV and can afford to buy one, as well as live in their own home and can thus charge at home have largely already made the switch.

My friends I grew up with in Sweden tell me that electrical vehicles ere starting to completely take over there, accounting for some 60% of all new car registrations both in 2025 and 2024, with something like 12% of vehicles on the road now being electrified.

(It is notable that these numbers include both plug in hybrids and fully electric vehicles)

Apparently the oil price shock after Russia invaded Ukraine, combined with lower cost Chinese EV’s starting to enter the market there both had a significant impact.

Over here in the U.S. - however - only 10% of new vehicle registrations in 2024 were electric, and that number has dropped down to 7.5% in 2025 to date. The percentage of the fleet on the road is only about 1.4% to 2.1%, so they are still a significant minority.

And this is - as previously mentioned - likely largely due to the combination of the expense of BEV’s making them somewhat of a luxury product, and the affordability of oil based fuels meaning that there are much smaller fuel savings here.

We also do not have any of the low cost Chinese car brands on the market here, so if you want a BEV, you are buying a Tesla, BMW, Mercedes, Audi, VW, Cadillac, Chevy, etc.

Polestar is on the market here, but they are designed in Sweden, and priced in line with other European brands. None of the true Chinese brands you get in the EU are on the market here, like BYD, MG, NIO, Xpeng, Zeekr, Geely or Lynk & Co.

While some of those Chinese brands are going for the more premium market, many of those brands are some of the cheapest BEV’s on the European market. And since they are absent here, the more established western brands also omit their cheaper competing models from the U.S. market. So we don’t get cheaper BEV’s here in the U.S. from western brands, like the Dacia Spring, Citroen e-C3, Hyundai Inster, Fiat Grande Panda, Skoda Epiq, Volkswagen ID.2 or Renault 5 E-Tech.

The cheapest models here in the U.S. are the Nissan Leaf (~$29k), Mini Cooper SE (~$31k) and Fiat 500a (~$34k) all of which are considered by most people to be much too small and have wholly inadequate range.

The Hyundai Kona Electric (~$32k) is still considered too small by most, but the range is a bit better.

The more realistic size/range market entry point thus comes in the $34k to $40k range with the Chevrolet Equinox EV, Hyundai Ioniq 6 and Volkswagen ID.4.

But guess what? Dealers have very few of these actual base models. Premium equipped models are higher margin, so while they put low speced ones on the market so they can say “yes we sell an EV for $34k” good luck actually finding one.

One of the other EV’s my better half looked at before getting her ID.4 was a Chevrolet Equinox EV. Aside from the fact that she didn’t exactly like how it drove, living where we do where we get 4 seasons including snow, she wasn’t thrilled about not having AWD, so we only looked at AWD cars. Cheapest ones with AWD are supposed to be $48k, but they didn’t have any of those. Once you add in the premium packages all the vehicles were equipped with the only ones available to us were at the $55k level.

Even the ID.4 she wound up with was the cheapest one with AWD we could find in stock anywhere, which was the AWD Pro S model, at $55k. If not for the spectacular lease deal, she would never have gone for it. A traditional buy and finance for a $55k car would have been WAY more than she wanted to spent, especially with today’s interest rates.

So 3-4 things are at play here:

1.) The cheapest models available in Europe are absent here. And because of this, most western competitors to those cheapest models are also absent here.

2.) You can in theory get a base model Chevy Equinox EV for $34k, but good luck finding one without the added packages that brings it up to $38k. They simply don’t want to sell those, because they don’t make them enough money. They seem to exist on paper only, or at the very least in small enough quantities that they are always sold out.

3.) If you feel strongly about having AWD, this is usually bundled with all sorts of other packages you don’t need to bring the price even higher. This means a Chevy Equinox EV with AWD skyrockets from $34k to $48k.

4.) But this $48k model is also the “exists on paper only” model. If you actually want one, you have to agree to lots of extra premium equipment levels on the models the dealers actually have, and before you know it you are in the $55k range.

So, yeah. That awesome Chevy Equinox EV you thought you could get for $34k? Realistically you are going to spend $55k if you feel you need AWD.

…and no Chevy on the planet is worth that much, IMHO.

If you are going to spend that much, you might as well go for the Cadillac or some other premium brand. A $55k Chevy just does not make sense.

There is a bit of hope though.

I have been reading a lot about the Slate pickup truck/SUV which is supposed to be on the market in 2026.

It is designed to be modular, without all of the expensive packages. It even comes with manual crank winds in its base configuration. And the way you buy them you start with the base model, and spec the addons yourself making them truly a-la-carte. You can even order the modular upgrade parts after the fact, and install them yourself, which is really cool.

They were apparently initially targeting a price tag for a base model in the low $20k range,but that was factoring in the $7,500 tax credit which is now going away, so they will be more expensive.

But still, these could be cool little local utility vehicles. Depending on where the price winds up landing, I may even pick one up to use for hauling stuff from the local hardware store for home improvement projects, moving furniture, etc.

It probably won’t happen, but it is a cool thought.

I have a 25 year old Volvo wagon in great shape I use for this type of hauling right now, and its weird, but I have actually seen first generation Volvo V70’s appreciate in the last year or so. If that trend continues, I may cash out, divest of it, and replace it with one of these little slate trucks for my local hauling needs.

I would like to maybe get an EV at some future point before I die… but right now… there is a real compelling reason I don’t drive a BMW … same follows for EV’s

I’m also not sold on the whole total cost of ownership being fully realized by 90% of all people driving an EV. I like to by my ICE cars and drive them for 5+ years AFTER they are paid off. I just don’t believe the EV’s can last that long without battery replacements that effectively total the whole car.

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always interesting to see the different viewpoints over the pond!

To compare, in the netherlands prices are 1.90 euro per liter, with places like france or germany being much cheaper. Cars are also more expensive here than in germany.
What makes adoption better here is tax incentives for company cars (which is most of the new cars) and the fact that ICE cars are taxed on emission and are already incredibly expensive. A brand new ford puma ICE is 33.000 euro and a brand new puma-E is also 33.000 euro. The VW golf starts at 37k and the ID4 at 40k.

I was just looking at it, Some of the chinese ones are really cheap! a new dongfeng box is 24k euro, that is cheaper than a new ICE equivalent. I understand why they are selling so well.

A thing to note about prices, historically here we don’t buy cars with loans, (altough it has changed a bit). Most people drive second hand cars and buying a new car is really a splurge. This is partly because of wages, Wages are on the higher end in the netherlands compared to the rest of europe but wages seem a lot more levelled than in the US. If you do well here and have a good job as for example an engineer, that would mean earning about 60k euro per year and get taxed for 20k euro.

I was sure the cost of a whole battery every ten years, was supposed to be accounted for in total cost of ownership calculations?

Offset by less costs for maintenance, and potentially cheaper fuel

Why would anyone think the battery magically lasts forever?

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Yeah i´m exactly in the same position it´s just way to expensive to drive an EV.
Next to that it is also way too impractical as far as i´m concerned.
I don´t have a house with a drive lane where i can put my own charger,
so i would be depending on public chargers which in my village are non existent.
And those public chargers in cities are almost always occupied.
Or i have to use expensive fast charging stations next to a highway which i won´t do at nights
For me a BEV is simply too impractical and too expensive.
And next to that most of them cannot properly tow a horse trailer.

So yeah i will stick to ice for a while i could consider a plugin hybrid maybe.
But on the other hand you could argue how much sense those cars actually make.
Because the electric range of a plugin isn´t really anything to write home about.
And next to that the extra weight of battery pack and the additional cost,
don´t really add up against fuel saving.
So basically a ice or mild hybrid is still the smarter buy at least for me.
But for those who can afford it´s nice i guess… :slight_smile:

What people forget is that batteries don’t usually just stop working, they lose capacity over time. @mattlach had calculations in his first post that showed that his battery should last ~250k miles with the worst charging practices, and ~475k miles if he’s smart about charging. And that’s not to failure, that’s to 90% capacity. So after 250k miles, a car that originally had a 300 mile range would now have a 270 mile range. The efficiency would still be the same, the car would just have less range.

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It makes sense that the cells would start failing and cause a gradual decline in charge and range. I am assuming that once it starts to go it will deteriorate rapidly. So you’ll get a warning but I doubt it is not a sharp curve of failing cells.

I am assuming part of this I’ll admit.

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What is that reason? (I can think of many, but I am curious what yours is.)

I think the concerns of battery degradation - at least on competently built BEV’s - are mostly behind us.

Yes, they do degrade, but with modern BEV’s it is much slower than people fear.

Early BEV’s (like first generation Nissan Leaf’s) had crazy battery degradation problems, but that was mostly because they (like a cellphone) didn’t have proper temperature conditioning on the battery during charging, and didn’t have a battery management system that throttled charging speeds when the temperature was outside of the optimal charging range. It also didn’t help that the total battery capacity was so low, that in order to extend range, people frequently charged them to 100% and drained them down to below 20%. (much like how many people use cellphones as well)

These batteries degraded much faster than modern BEV’s.

In modern BEV’s the coolant system goes through the battery module regulating its temperature.

Prior to charging the system preconditions the the battery by warming it up to the lower part of the ideal charging temperature range (if it isn’t warm enough out for it to already be there) and then during charging when the battery produces lots of heat, it switches to cooling mode to keep the battery within this ideal range.

And if it is hot enough where you are charging that it cannot keep the battery at an ideal temperature for charging, the battery management system then reduces the charging speed to minimize any wear on the battery.

(The fan on my Audi A6 E- tron goes on full blast during a DC fast charging session as the heat pump tries to keep the battery cool enough to stay in the optimal charging temperature range)

I found this study at Battery University very helpful to my understanding of the topic.

In particular this chart:

DST-cycles-web2

What you are looking at in the chart above is the capacity when fully charged (on the y axis) expressed as a percentage of capacity when new, and the number of charge cycles (assuming proper charging temperature) on the x axis.

The easy conclusion by looking at this chart is that smaller charge intervals wear batteries less than larger charge intervals, especially if they are kept away from the extremes (below 20% or above 80%)

This part seems kind of obvious. What I wanted to learn from this - however - was if it was better for me to charge a small interval every night - OR - to keep driving it until it drains down lower, then charge it back up to a higher state of charge and do it again.

(And in the process I learned some interesting things)

On the one hand, a smaller charge range (like 65% → 75% like we see in orange in the chart above) results in less wear, but it also gives you fewer miles of range for that charging range. A larger charging range (like say, 25% → 80% in green on the chart above) wears more on the battery for each charge, BUT it also gives me many more miles of range for that one charge, so I can get away with charging much less frequently.

Typically in the battery industry, a battery is considered worn out when it no longer can maintain at least 90% of its “when new” charge. So, I followed the 90% line across from the left, squinted a little bit, and estimated just how many cycles of each charging range result in degradation to 90%.

I estimated the following:

Max	    Min		DST to 90% CAP
100%	25%		1000
100%	40%		1250
100%	50%		1550
85%	    25%		2125
75%	    25%		2875
75%	    45%		4500
75%	    65%		8875

Then I did some basic math, computing the charge range for each (max - min) and then multiplied this range by the number of cycles in order to normalize the usable charge to the size of a full charge for analysis.

Max	    Min	 DST to 90% CAP	 Charge per cycle	Full Cycle Equivalent
100%	25%	 1000	         75%	               750.0
100%	40%  1250	         60%	               750.0
100%	50%	 1550	         50%	               775.0
85%	    25%	 2125	         60%	              1275.0
75%	    25%	 2875	         50%	              1437.5
75%	    45%	 4500	         30%	              1350.0
75%	    65%	 8875	         10%	               887.5

Since I was curious what this would mean for my car specifically I used a fixed value for the EPA estimated range for my car (333 miles) and then multiplied the charge per cycle, times the total range to get the miles gained per charge, and then multiplied the number of cycles to 90% times the amount of charge per cycle, times the estimated 333 mile range of the car to establish how many miles I could drive under each charging scenario before the battery was degraded to 90% capacity.

Max 	Min		Miles per charge		Miles to 90%
100%	25%		249.75          		249,750
100%	40%		199.8           		249,750
100%	50%		166.5            		258,075
85% 	25%		199.8	            	424,575
75% 	25%		166.5           		478,687
75% 	45%		 99.9            		449,550
75% 	65%		 33.3            		295,537

So, what I concluded was, that once I factor in the fewer necessary charging cycles due to larger cycles, the charging regimen that resulted in the most number of miles driven before the battery is reduced to 90% capacity, and that was charging from 25% → 75% at ~479k miles.

479k miles!

How many cars have you driven that far before retiring them?

So, yeah, shorter cycles wear the battery less, but you have to do them more often, so the ideal range is somewhere in the middle. Not letting it discharge to empty and charging it to 100% again, but also not charging up every night, even when you drive a very short distance.

I wish the Battery University had more charging intervals in their test. I would have liked to see 20% → 80% figures, and some others like 20% → 60% and maybe 25% → 55%

Also, these numbers are going to skew slightly high for at least two reasons.

1.) Charging temperature is not always going to be a fixed 20%. Even with heat pumps and coolant it is impossible to keep the batteries at those temperatures.

2.) Charge and discharge cycles are not the only source of degradation. Age also is.

Now, admittedly, with Lithium Ion technology, age degradation is rather minor compared to charge/discharge cycle wear, but it still exists.

I did read somewhere else in the study that for long term storage, a charge of ~40% is ideal as it degrades the slowest while aging at that charge level.

So what I figured I’d do is center my charging range at around 40% average by draining it down to and charging it up to an equal amount on either side of that 40% for my regular driving.

I’m still deciding if I want to do 20% → 60% or 25% → 55%, but either of these ought to be pretty close to minimizing wear.

This still gives me about 133 (or 100) miles per charge, and since I only drive about 20 miles a day on average these days, it should give me between 5 and 7 days between charging, and allow the battery to last for a long long time.

For my driving habits (which are admittedly low these days) with a 20% → 60% charge this battery should last some 3000 cycles before I hit 90% capacity. And charging once every 5-7 days that means the battery will last between 15,000 and 21,000 cycles before hitting that level. That’s between 40 and 60 years :sweat_smile: The age factor will start bringing it down faster than that, but it will still be much longer than I’ll ever keep the car, even if I buy out the lease at the end of my 3 years.

Don’t get me wrong. If I have a larger driving day (locally) coming up the next day, I’ll prepare and charge it up to 80%. And for the few times a year I drive the 120 miles to my parents place for holidays and birthdays, I’ll probably even give it a 100% charge and try to do the whole round trip without charging.

These higher charges will wear the battery more, but each individual cycle is relatively minimal, so only doing it once in a blue moon is mostly negligible.

I mean, if I look at Battery University’s chart above, even if I were to be extreme and discharge the battery down to 25% every day, and charge it back up to 100% every night, I’d get ~1,000 cycles before hitting 90% capacity. That’s 2.7 years of doing it every day and night. But that is ridiculously extreme, because with the range of my car, that would involve driving ~91,158 miles per year. Even when I was younger and drove my most (which was considered high) I never exceeded 35,000 miles in a year. Even 25,000 miles in a year is considered “a lot of driving” here in the U.S., and we drive a lot compared to other countries.

These days that I have hybrid work and only go into the office once or twice a week I only put about 7,500 miles a year on my main car. (I also have a secondary old Volvo I put ~3,500 miles a year on for local errands, running to the hardware store, home improvement projects, etc…

TLDR version:

So, quite honestly, I’m not concerned about battery degradation anymore. It was a concern of mine in the past, and it probably would have been appropriate on a first generation Nissan leaf or the like, but in the almost 15 years since the first gen Leaf was announced, automakers have learned A LOT about how to take care of batteries and manage charge cycles.

The Nissan Leaf, due to its unheated/uncooled battery that didn’t throttle its rate of charge when outside of the ideal temperature range, and also due to its low range was frequently charged to 100% and discharged down close to 0% by owners, would degrade at a similar rate to the battery in your cellphone or laptop, which also is not heated/cooled or throttled and also gets charged up high and drained down low by most users.

But a modern BEV is way more advanced than that, and as long as you don’t do something stupid, like constantly charge it to 100%, it should last you a long long time.

Heck, you don’t have to get as anal as I have, and nerd out with Excel and do all of these calculations. Even if you just plug it in at home and charge it up to 80% every night, a modern BEV battery will likely last you a long long time. I’m guessing north of 400,000 miles before degrading to 90%.

Who drives any car up to 400,000 miles?

I don’t think I’ve ever kept a car past 160k miles before I get the upgrade/replacement itch due to such things as creaks, rattles paint chips and degradation, worn interiors, etc. and just a general desire for something newer.

So battery degradation? Not worth worrying about anymore. That is so 2011.

(and yes, it is really shocking and scary to me because it feels like just yesterday, but 2011 was FOURTEEN YEARS ago now :sweat_smile:)

Also, my apologies, I realized not everyone is fluent in miles. Every time you see miles in my post, just miltiply by ~1.61 to get KM.

(So, the 400+ miles to 90% capacity figure is 640k km.)

We have had a BEV in the family since 2014, got rid of the last gas car in 2023.

Did we have “range anxiety” back in 2014?, yes. The car had a 70mile / 112km range and needed about 6 hours to charge.

Do we still have “range anxiety”, no. The current cars are 300+ mile / 482km, sub 30 min to charge.

Where it gets interesting is all the years we had both a bev and gas car(s). For a long time there was a BMW M, Audi RS, and a chevy Spark in the garage. The Chevy got taken on most local trips. Why? It was more responsive due to instant throttle response. Also, you never had to worry about stopping for gas. If it was a short trip, you just did it and went home. With the others, how much gas is in it today, do I need to stop?

Every morning the car is full or close to it depending on your preference.

In the last year I think we have stopped at a public charger once. The year before might have been 10 times because we were moving.

A lot of trips have gone like this. Leave the house, do whatever we are doing, then on the trip home it has been close a few times. Should we stop and charge, or just slow down a little bit and make it home near empty (usually ~10%). Slowing down adds 5 min to the trip, still faster than stopping for gas. Sure we get home empty, but next morning it’s full again. Try that with a gas car where your only option is stop now, stop latter.

The thing that matters most though, they are simply better to drive. The low CG of BEVs makes them handle and ride better than comparable gas cars. Back when I was helping with the classification system for the BMW autocross club and BEVs came out, they literally broke the way cars were classed because they performed better than the specs indicated they would. The reasons are long, but they are very real.

They stay cleaner (almost no brake dust), anyone who has had to deal with brake dust from a German performance car will know how much of a PITA this is.

I’ll never have another gas car, they simply feel like antiques. Noisy, sluggish, dirty, and in constant need of maintenance.

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It’s true if you get past 200k in a car these days without basically rebuilding it you are damn lucky.

You mentioned your normal range is only 20 miles.

That is another area of wildly different use case. Here in the flyover states ( for the non-miles fluent that means all of the USA other than New York and California ) I probably drive twice that. Still probably comfortable in the “modern” BEV ranges but I’m sure there is a divide between rural and urban needs.

Meh. Not really a point I suppose but a different charge cycle frequency.

One thing I am hearing from you, and this is kinda a common mindset from EV enthusiasts, is that you buy new cars and that you buy them on a whim. I think the vast majority of people buy used cars.

I’m not thinking a used BEV is a safe purchase.

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The BMS in a car is not like a phone. Also how the batters are use is nothing like consumer electronics. What degrades batteries fast is high temps, and holding a high state of charge.

The usage patterns cars provide the battery is turning out in practice to be far easier on the cells than a phone for example. The reasons are the batteries are actively thermally managed in all modern cars. They rarely operate near 0% or 100%, in fact most cars don’t even allow that. What they show as 0% and 100% is actually more like 5% and 95%. Each car has it’s own buffer size.

Then there is the part that surprised me. It turns out that cycling a modern cell from 50-70% multiple times is less stressful than the a single 0-100% go. I don’t have a link to the study but IIRC, it’s mostly due to reduced mechanical stresses on the internal of the battery.

Only our 2014 car ever showed battery degradation after years. That car was used really, really hard for what it was. It also didn’t have a managed battery. The concerns are far overblown.

Also note, it’s not like gas cars don’t have wear items. Had a valve fail in the BMW v8, that was not fun. Had it happened out of warranty it would have cost about what a battery would.

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I would not touch a used Leaf or Smart. However, any of the liquid cooled cars, which is almost all of them, are pretty much safe buys.

Our second EV was a used one, kept it about 3 years and never had it serviced. No issues, just maintenance things like tires and wiper blades. We would still have that car if we didn’t move. Instead we sold it for basically what we paid for it and saved the hassle of moving a 3rd vehicle when we had 2 drivers.

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I’m totally with you on this. I had a $10k down payment on the original Tesla Model S back in 2011 before it launched, but for a variety of reasons and changes to my life I was forced to cancel it.

In that time I saw Tesla do things to their designs I really didn’t like (over-simplifying the interior, single center display without instrument cluster, yoke, incessant obsession with self driving technology at the expense of everything else, not to mention the more recent political entanglements which put a lot of people off) and I wondered if I would ever get an electric car.

Sure, there are more manufacturers than Tesla, but most - at least in the U.S. market seem to only want to make crossovers, SUV’s and trucks, OR err on the other side of things, and make some efficiency-hunchback reminicent of some annoying little Toyota Yaris or something like that.

I kept wishing that someone would just make a normal mid to large size sedan, just electric instead of gas. The Audi A6 E-Tron is the closest I have seen to date (Except maybe the Lucid Air*) and that’s why it was time for me to jump in now.

I would have loved a Lucid Air. I briefly considered getting one, but the previous year models apparently had a lot of teething issues, so buying used was out, and the new ones were just too damn expensive. I could have picked up the very base model for similar money to the A6 E-Tron Quattro, but that very base model is only RWD, and I would prefer to never fishtail up a hill in the snow again, especially since our house is at the top of a hill.

I still have some minor concerns, primarily regarding the fact that they seem to be into microtransactions and subscriptions, which I will absolutely never do for a car (or anything else if I can avoid it) and the privacy concerns about their digital in-car systems leaking data about me to the manufacturer for uses I disagree with (hint: all of them) but the truth is, this is every car these days, not just electrics, so I guess there is no getting away from it.

That aside, the actual aspect of driving and charging the car are amazing.

I’ve become used to driving the Audi very fast. I’m three weeks in tomorrow, and already like 2 weeks ago I had become used to it to the point where getting into even a fairly recent ICE vehicle felt like going back in time (and not in the good way).

It’s amazing how fast you get used to perfectly linear throttle response, quietness and a lack of vibration. Any ICE vehicle feels instantly outdated once you do.

I still have one ICE vehicle. It’s a 25 year old Volvo wagon, a bit of a nostalgia-mobile for me. I sued to love driving it, even more than my new (ish) 2017 Volvo S90. The S90 was a great car, fast and modern, but there was just something charming about driving the old wagon.

But since getting used to electric vehicles, driving that wagon feels like a chore.

It’s amazing how fast your perspective can change.