Some of the guys that run deep into the 200s that aren’t just doing Bonneville runs will shave some of the tread off of their tires and glue them to the rims, which makes the rims consumable after several mountings.
but yeah 99.999% of people do not glue, but tire sealant is a thing.
There’s also tire balancing beads which honestly sound like snake oil to me.
It’s nasty as fuck. I hate that stuff. Do you know how difficult it is to clean that off the interior of rims after it’s baked on by 50 C summer heat?
it is, and it gets all up in the tpms sensors, usually ruining them.
Right. No glue, just that pasty thing I assumed was glue. Glue would rip the rubber and make the rim need thorough cleaning with every change… silly me for knowing that and ignoring it…
I think I’ll move back to a squared set up on the vette once my rears are worn, I just can’t justify the price for the Pilot Sport cups. Amazing tires but there’s very few options that fit my wheels, and of course they are all bonkers expensive. $1200 for just the rears is just not worth it 
I run beads in my motorcycle I like them a lot. Don’t have to worry about throwing a weight and cleans up the look of the rim.
Also let’s you mount and balance your tires yourself without a balance machine.
I know a bunch of smart people that have good things to say about the beads, and I don’t think that many people can be wrong… but it just sounds like it wouldn’t work when described to my lizard brain
Weather has gotten nicer, so I’m working on my Seca turbo. Got the fuels system built, but I’m still having hesitation when boost starts building.
Where did you get that gauge? I’m looking around but I’m not seeing it.
Edit: well, I found your gauge, but it goes up to 150psi. Lol
Now that I know what the actual brand is I found some that go yo 50psi, but that’s still pretty high.
I feel the exact same way. Even FortNine did a video about it, and he claimed it works (at least with slime) and I’m sitting the like, HOW???
Also, that video was sponsored iirc, so I can’t put much weight in what he said about it.
What’d you end up using for a fuel pump? I ended up using a walbro automotive in-tank fuel pump and having to make an adapter for it.
Its a Hewitt Industries gauge, they still make the 30psi gauge but it looks like they are out of stock of it at the moment… also its 160USD now?!
Another option you could go with is getting a differential pressure gauge and plumb it between the manifold and the carb’s fuel inlet. You’d only want like a 4-5psi full scale gauge so you can easily see when it go over 2psi and causes carb float height issues.
Currently I have that high pressure fuel pump in it, but since there’s no change with the hesitation that might change, since I can’t fit my electric petcock and that pump in the spot I want.
I thought about this, but I really like the idea of a gauge that can both be the boost gauge and the reference gauge. I only have room for one gauge unless I make a custom gauge cluster.
Guess my options are limited, so I’ll look into a differential gauge
Edit: shoot, those are crazy expensive. Alright, guess I’m going to try throwing my wideband on it.
I’d be warry about using a high pressure fuel pump, I’m on a 12PSI nominal Walbro 5CA401, but in reality they pump out way more pressure than their nominal values:
Yeah the single gauge that does everything is super coinvent on a space limited application.
This is going to sound alittle weid, but you could also use aviation gauges, many of them are dual gauges like:
hunting around more you can get Ranco AN5772’s for ~50USD; they are a 3.25" gauge though which is slightly bigger than your stock gauges most likely
I don’t believe the fuel pump is actually building pressure due to the boost reference fuel regulator right? The excess just goes around in circles I thought. Maybe I’m misunderstanding. I’ll look into the pump you’re running, but I guess I could just through a low pressure pump back on as that didn’t seem to be the issue.
That would be fine as a temporary solution, but I don’t know if I want to spend a lot on something temporary.
Thanks for your help BTW, I really appreciate it.
That’s the way the boost referenced fuel regulators work ideally, but there are some non-linearities in reality where the higher the flow rate of the pump the more “extra” pressure the fuel regulators let through to the carbs.
-In this case I’m assuming a high nominal/rated fuel pressure pump is also putting out a high flow rate because it’ll be operating in the left most area, higher up in the y-axis, on a chart similar to that one I shared.
Us boosted bike guys gotta sick together, we’re among the rarest breed of gearheads.
I know my bike is supposed to take 15lbs easy, so I’m assuming I’d need a nominal pressure of 15psi right? I currently don’t ever plan on running more than 15lbs.
It’d be most ideal if you could get a pressure vs flow rate chart for the pump in question and just find out where you fall on the graph… but sometimes these charts can be hard to find.
I have a bleed jet setting to run 15lbs of boost on my bike when I can get 100 octane and my 12psi nominal pump is still alittle overkill for this, because at the flow rates the engine is actually consuming fuel at, the pump would be putting out over 25psi.
A decent rule of thumb is that an engine at wot will consume 1 gallon per hour for every 10 horsepower it makes, so bikes are only consuming 5-15 gallons per hour (50-150hp) of fuel at wot, which puts us way over to the right on the flowrate vs pressure chart.
-what I just said might sound contradictory to my last post but because of the boost referenced fuel regulator, the fuel pump is “tricked” into flowing a ton more fuel at a lower pressure.
I’m waiting for some rims to get back in stock for the Tacoma, and then I plan on going this route. A buddy went with 33’s and beads seem to be working just fine.
Ah, ok, I get it now.
I think my bike should be around here (green dot) at best.
BTW my bike is an 83 Yamaha 650 Seca Turbo which should have 90hp stock. Unfortunately I don’t know what the stock boost numbers are, but if I had to guess at least 10psi.
Think I’ll buy a boost gauge before I go much farther. I noticed I have room for at least 2 (probably 3) gauges.
That pump (5CA401) would probably be fine hydraulically, but it wouldn’t easily hook up onto a fuel line so I don’t know if I’d recommend it. It’s supposed to be an in-tank pump so it has a really weird connection on one end.
Exactly, that green dot’s your fuel needs; and as long as your on the inside of the solid purple line, your pump is sufficient (the solid purple line because realistically the pump will receive ~13.5v as opposed to 12v).
The further inside the purple line the green dot is the more “overkill” the fuel pump becomes and the more of those non-linearities with the boost reference fuel pressure regulator come into play.
Yeah it probably still means the end of the combustion engine.
