I mean, that’s the miata. 4th tops out around 100 IIRC, 3rd tops at 80ish. Still widely recognized as one of the best sub 50k sports cars out there.
Sure, but nobody uses CVTs.
Exactly, they suck the fun out of it while managing to feel like driving a rubber band at the same time.
But it would be reasonable to go from 40>70mph all within a single gear or maybe do one 2>3 shift at most if you really wanted to wring it out in miata.
Its a good feeling being in some swoopy canyons where you just stay in the same gear
Ive got news for you: electrics only have one gear.
But let’s be real, I run the tight mountain roads and I’m going between 2 and 3 in the miata all the time.
Well that good feeling in being in one gear without the torque tapering off as you speed up;
I think that tapering off feeling is part of what makes cvt’s so unlikeable. EVs are far far better masking that sensation because they tend to have alot of torque off the line causing a sensory overload… but given enough time you’ll get use to it and you’ll notice the tapering off feeling.
Makes me wonder if it can be “fixed” by tuning an EV to give that surging feel, kind of like how subaru programs in faux gear ratios into their CVTs.
I loved the honest take he had… similar experience to mine but it did way better in Florida
It never handled Space Force Base Construction right but that was the only part for me
Just throwing this out there
That one in the Netherlands there @MisteryAngel better not drive your alfa Romeo there 
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It was an accident but they actually used the shot in the movie.
It was one of the 007 movies.
Charger install cost ($350 charger prob + copper + circuit breaker + conduit if you need it) Would estimate $500-700 DIY
Assuming you do Level 2 at home
Ahh, right. I don’t think I’ll be able to get away with 120v charging at home. I need probably 40kwh per day in the office, which is Monday, Tuesday, Thursday.
$700 DIY ain’t bad. The panel is on the outside of my garage, so I can’t imagine it’ll be too difficult to install a 14-50 socket.
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Here’s the problem: it really sounds like you’re comparing bikes to cars.
There’s no comparison between a bike and a car. Hell, even a cruiser is way more engaging than a car at any performance level.
Sure, EVs can be “fixed” by limiting their power at lower wheel speeds, but that’s just going to make them slower and more annoying.
I really think you need to actually drive an electric and you’ll see. Go drive a model Y. I’d rather have that (or even a 3) than a M2 competition, or any of the german sports cars, for that matter.
Its not if you have any questions i just did a 60ft run. Only thing i would suggest is to make sure you torque all the contacts to spec as its a lot of current and thats where most of the issues are. (Spent $130 on torque screw driver for it, could have gone cheaper but rather buy quality tool)
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Bro, $190 a month in electricity. How?!
I drove 40 miles a day (1,200 per month) with my spark and it (no joke) cost me less than $15 a mouth.
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You might be right about that; but I still want a car as fun to drive as practically posible.
Did you see the video going around (video is impeccably produced, supperior to even TG in it’s glory days) of the lucid sapphire and the plaid racing and the lucid smoking it? By the looks of it the lucid might actually have that rush of top end acceleration so maybe its not all EVs with the tapering dynamic.
I’ve got a decent amount of electrics under my belt, which is why I’m fairly negative on their driving dynamics, but no electric cars that were released within the last 3 years or so, perhaps the newest generation got better? The ones that I haven’t tried out yet that I want to are the aptera and lucid.
$0.32/kwh. That’s how. And I’m assuming ~2400 miles per month, at 3.4 miles per kwh. Which, let’s be real. I won’t be getting that.
Then I looked at my solar panel’s surplus generation which came out to be approximately 120kwh per month, when averaged out over the year, and subtracted that.
So that 190/mo comes from the total kwh of charging minus the solar surplus, multiplied by my utility’s electric rate.
So I called my electric cartel rep and they told me that there’s a $0.23/kwh rate, but the on-peak rates are much higher. So I’m thinking: get the lower overnight rate, buy 10kwh of batteries, charge it overnight and shave the peak with the batteries.
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Wow, that crazy.
Our power used to be a flat 3 cents but I just checked and we are starting at 8 cents now. RIP.
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I’m just catching up here. You have a boosted bike? Nice!
I too have one, but she’s an old girl, and unlike yours you have to wait so long for the boost, you don’t get anything below 6k.
I’m currently working on her, so she’s not in one peace.
Don’t mind the speedometer as it has issues. You can hear one choo as I come out of 1st gear. Yes I was short shifting as this bike is still very new to me, and I heard there’s no rev-limiter.
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What needs wrenching on it?
1st thing was the battery was dead, so I had to take the fairings off to get to that.
2nd, not long after I got it running the fuel pump died. Smacked that around to get it working again, but ordered a new one to install.
3rd, fuel is leaking into the cylinders while it sits. This is a problem on these bikes (I don’t think these carbs can have overflows due to the boost presser), and I’ve ordered some stuff to fix it as well, but I’m sure that one of the float needles aren’t sealing completely, so really I should take the carbs off. Don’t wanna right now though. Lol
More on the fuel system. I want to make a video going over how Yamaha cheaply boosted these bikes using carbs, but in short, the aftermarket low presser fuel pump that is currently on it is only good for 8psi. Now I don’t really know what this bike runs for boost presser, but I bet it’s a tad over that (8psi), supposedly 15psi is safe and reliable.
Now the way the fuel system is setup the fuel pump must be able to over come boost pressor, and due to the low flow and pressor of this cheap pump, I think it’s causing the bike to hesitate before boost hits. I’ve ordered a high flow and pressor pump for it, but it seems to have had a problem in shipping.
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Oh dang! We’re a rare breed.
Mines fairly old too, a '95; my spool up is pretty decent because I have one of those variable geometry turbos that can “act” like a small turbo when at low RPM when there aren’t enough exhaust gasses to properly spool it up by adjusting vanes.
I’m supposed to be working on mine too, I’m having clutch slipping problems again through I think a combination of slightly worn friction plates and making more power in this cool weather we’re having.
Does the bike have a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator to control the fuel pressure the carbs see? Typically the float valves in them are only good for sealing maybe 2-4 psi of pressure before they’re overcome.
I had so much trouble with getting my fuel pressure regulator to match what the actual manifold pressure was I ended up installing a gauge to track the two against each other to ensure they never stepped out of line.
Carb flooding, or even running at too high of a bowl level can cause hesitation at lower rpm.
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I really want a variable geometry turbo in my Duramax.
Just so we know what we’re working with, my bike is an 1983 Yamaha Seca 650 Turbo. It is a factory built turbo bike.
One of the reasons I bought this bike was to reverse engineer the fuel system so I can boost more engines. I have a goofy goal to boost a 140cc pitbike I have.
It does have a boost reference fuel regulator on the fuel return line. The boost directly pushes closed the fuel regulator diaphragm closing the return line path, thus forcing fuel presser to build with boost pressure.
I think it’s very cool that you boosted your bike. I’m still learning how one can go about this. Like I have no idea if it’s normal to put a boost reference fuel regulator on the return line. Where is yours located?
If I can understand this well enough I might try modifying a car carb to be blow threw.
I’m fairly sure the hesitation is due to the extremely low flow fuel pump, so as the fuel regulator closes it take the fuel pump a second or 2 to pressurize the system. Not certain, but I want to upgrade the fuel pump before I move on to other things.
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