probably, but transferring it is a pain, so a thread’s easier
the goal is partly to reduce my time on youtube, it’s had varying levels of effectiveness. As long as mods don’t have a issue I will keep posting, it seems that people don’t engage at the time I post, but people browsing later seem to enjoy having it, so 
I had to sell my Toyota Starlet (my daily) 
Being a car guy you’ve got to keep your neighbors as very good friends.
Owning and parking 4 cars does not help with that i assumed, so the starlet had to make place for the Daihatsu Hijet.
The good news is, i sold the Starlet for the same price i bought it with.
I Loved the car because it had nothing. no powersteering, no electric mirrors, no abs, no open-able rear windows, not even a clock. I absolutely loved it! to bad they can’t make these kind of cars anymore.
And the car from 1995 had no rust on the chassis! trust me i looked everywhere.
Sad days haha.
Those cars are being exported most of the time.
Mostly cars that are financially totaled.
Around 400,- the starlet still got me 1300,- and i sold it within an day of listing.
Yeah those cars are still pretty popular for export.
Question – First coil on plug job. Same procedure with dielectric grease as you would with wires and a coil pack? So some grease on the plugs and then on the coil boots and right inside where the contacts are?
About ready for the job. Got the plugs and coils. Got a maf since it seems to be running rich and the values the maf reads don’t line up with engine displacement at idle – cleaning it helped a lot, and then it gets worse as it gets driven. It threw the codes once, and then hasn’t since, but Im seeing upwards of -20 on the short term trim and -10 of long term trim. So starting with replacing that and the coils/plugs need done anyways. Intake gasket too since that’s all gotta come off. Plan on checking things like the cold start injector while I have things apart.
What type air filter are you using? Oiled filters can mess up the maf.
And dielectric grease I use where there is rubber. I’ve always thought of it as a lubricant to prevent the rubber from sticking places it shouldn’t.
OEM air filter. Not oiled.
Everything I’ve done is OEM Denso (Excluding the air filter. Which is whatever the oem was. I let a shop throw it in last time.) I should consider installing a catchcan with the whole direct injection system, but I don’t know enough about it yet. Ill have to do me a learn on that bit. And figure out if places will inspect it with that. Along with anything else it affects.
Bro you need some K&N filters increased my HP, yea my MAF is ruined and yea I never reoiled it, and yea I’m sucking in road debris but other than that its been amazing. /s
Open velocity stacks is where its at bruh
Car people how are volvo parts etc in the US? Thinking I might go that route since Kona N Manual dream is dead
According to my coworker, you’ll find a decent amount of parts for everything except for the interior. Also pretty decent 3rd party market.
Depends on the area as well. East coast mountains where Im at volvo parts are everywhere. Lot of them on the road as well.
I think that Volvo parts should be plenty available.
Depending on which Volvo you are looking at.
But Volvo even has a factory in the US i believe.
found my next vehicle a toyota sequoia 01-07 range i think (did a bit of image searching). got it off my little brother for 2700.
Actually never heard of that car. 
it a clone and more reliable of a chevy traverse with 3 rows of seating and a midely large trunk space. or durango from dodge.
It’s a toyota so it should be pretty good.
Not fully sure if Toyota in the US is also using their CVT transmissions,
like they do in their hybrid cars?
nah this is a proper 4 speed gear box. with 4WD.
