Oof that 6BT what a engine that keeps on cummin just like the 7.3 keeps on strokin
Bad joke?
Oof that 6BT what a engine that keeps on cummin just like the 7.3 keeps on strokin
Bad joke?
Now that is true, poor engines have to breathe their own exhaust.
Plug the EGR, delete the DPF, let that boy breathe.
Yup i was mainly looking at the 6 cylinder diesel engines,
that are available in the EU cars.
In the US there are cummings those are bullet proof.
But i don’t think that there are any european sold cars with a V cummings.
I’ve always had a interest in the Mercedes 5 cylinder diesel. Does anybody know how those are those?
I know they’re used in sprinter vans, so I assume they’re pretty good.
Went through the frame on my '13 'yota with a wire wheel and painted it. Small sample of before and after
Will also be getting a fluid film (like oil) spray before winter.
My understanding is that painting over rust isn’t a good idea, even if it’s a tiny bit, but I live in SoCal, so maybe someone who knows more can chime in?
Didn’t paint over it I took it all off with a wire wheel guy
But yes you’re correct. They make special paints for mild surface rust (which I used even though the wire wheel took off 99%) but anything more than that it’s no bueno
Those little spikes are ruining everything. Something on the tach signal is ringing throwing off my counts.
F
They are pretty decent when they are maintained well.
The only real common issue with cdi engines are leaking injector seals.
But thats pretty much it.
It’s also pretty easy to notice if a said car is having the issues,
because you can hear and smell it.
In SoCal its split- if its a stock “average” subi, its a mature driver that just blends into the traffic. If its a WRX and/or STi- best to steer clear of that vape cloud of douchebaggery.
#firstgenbestgen //truth
Hmm, I couldn’t tell ya why…
Seems to me you’ve got interference from another signal in there, it’s a pretty standard pattern.
beginning to look for bucket seats for the miata
Thinking about the Corbeau A4 or the Sparco Chrono Road
Anyone have insight?
6 point is up next.
Well since every person is a different shape en condition,
it’s likely a matter of self testing which particular seat fits you the best.
I know that sparco is used allot, or recaro.
Yeah, my friend has a set of brides in his fd, but they’re a $2800 set. No thanks.
I’m definitely gonna head down to the warehouse and give em all a good sit.
Brakes were still a hair sticky, so I took everything back off and filed the ears on the pads down a smidge as well as relubed the sliders.
Fluid film is love, fluid film is life.
Thats what ive been hearing… though I havent had much trouble with my all aluminum body car
When you can’t decide if you want a muscle car, or a 4x4, but you also want to be able to haul the gang.
Using interrupts triggered by rising or falling signal. A low pass filter helped cut out most of it.
I still need to tweak the circuit then drop any anomalies using the program but its pretty good.
Can’t get too complex though, even writing to serial throws off the timing. I’m using one arduino to read the coil, generate scaled tach signal, read vss, generate scaled speed signal.
Hmmm I’m not so convinced a filter will Help.
If you don’t choose a pretty precise cutoff you may filter more than the spikes given that your counts also happen at a certain frequency. It’s worth a try though
Are the little spikes regular or spuradic. The way to tell is can you trigger on them and isolate them without them having much variance
Am I understanding it right that your attempting to make your own tachometer? Most controllers are either PI or PID for tachometers. What’s your circuit like. Is it optical based or hall effect (similar to abs sensors)
It can be done with a hardware filter. The aftermarket and the OEM tachs do and work well with the same noisy signal.
The signal is generated in the ignition coil. My lpf is some random value ceramic cap off my desk and a 1k resistor.