I fucking hate strap wrenches, hand tight is plenty good for oil filters no need to tighten them to the point they dont come off easily. Just throw some oil on the gasket thats on the filter and it will come off easy.
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So putting a hitch on the legacy was a win/loss when its loaded down hitting a decent bump will cause the bottom of my bike hitch mount to strike the ground. Probably not an issue when not loaded down, but was interesting the first time it happened i was like wtf was that
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Just power really… maybe a bit of extra UBHC emissions but thats it. Unless your tail pipe is black or your EGR is getting clogged I would not worry about it
I’m trying to decide whether or not to get a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. I was going to just get the black interior out of it to put in my TDI, but the guy wants $200 for me to strip it out. He wants $400 for the entire car.
Problem with the car is the previous owner chronically overfilled the oil. Apparently all the seals are “blown out.” The guy selling it said he was able to start it once and it “sounded like a tractor.” It has like 135k on it.
I could either try to fix it, or strip the entire car and sell parts. Probably could make up what I buy it for and get a free interior.
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I got approved for a home loan, which means I need to come up with 5-6k cash, so I’ve been struggling with the decision to go on the Gambler 500, and after talking with my family, and buddies, I’m going to pass this year.
Also the guy that I was going to ride with when my Jimmy blows isn’t going to have enough room for me, which was the final nail in the coffin.
RIP for this year, but I can’t wait to have a place to work on my stuff.
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Probably rekt piston rings and other seals. Probably also oil in the combustion chamber causing it to diesel like that.
Worth it dude, you gonna be a property owner!
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that just for closing…
or will that cover 20% so you dont have to pay for PMI?
Idaho has a first-time buyers assistance which pays all (or nearly all) of the 20%. I’m not sure if I’ll need PMI.
Honestly I should probably make a thread, so I can get tips from people that have already bought a house. I’ll do that when I get a moment.
Just gonna leave these here. you be the judge.
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These are list of things car manufactures need to put back into cars and truck again.
Wood paneling.
About 20ft long.
Underpowered V8.
RWD.
Chrome everywhere.
And no airbags.
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Yep, reasons I need a rotary.
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Just get a Donny
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The Patriot was manufactured at Chrysler’s Belvidere, Illinois assembly plant alongside the Compass . God bless America. From 2007 to 2010. They don’t suck as much if they are American made.
I mean, my miata doesn’t spit flames but the 2step on it is pretty rad. I should post a video one of these days.
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This Jeep is built Ford tough.
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AC doesn’t stay cold. It also doesn’t get very cold in general when it’s above about 90 degrees outside. Sometimes when I’m driving the air will get noticeably warmer for several seconds and then go back to being semi-cool. And the radiator fan seems to run much more often than it should. It pretty much runs any time I’m not going fast. Other cars I’ve owned only really did it when they were initially cooling down after starting the car or if idling for a long time, if I remember correctly. Fluid temperatures and pressures indicate fine. What does L1T think I should I do?
- Take it to Ford to see what’s wrong.
- Buy an R-134a recharge kit first and see if that fixes it.
- Other
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If it improves above 90 degrees. Then it probably has a leak. More refrigerant might damage it. Do a purge test first before anything.
It gets worse above 90 degrees. It pretty much feels fine if it’s below that, and part of that may be that my body just doesn’t need it to be super cold if it’s not that hot outside, but it seems like around 90+ is when it starts to have issues keeping up.
Could also be an old battery or alternator. Age of the vehicle helps. But eyes on the vehicle help more.