I have a large sheet of something meant to keep the engine hood from shaking in my PC case.
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Dynamatt and a lot of automotive products work well in computers. back in the early days of water cooling we used heater cores for radiators. i say this a lot and people look at me weird, but it is true, if you can work on a car, you can work on a computer.
As a former automotive and diesel tech, I am fairly certain that this is because there is such a heavy requirement for a basic intuitiveness in physics to be successful at that particular job.
To know how a car works bumper-to-bumper, you not only need a strong understanding of mechanical physics, but also of fluid dynamics (including air), thermodynamics, and electrical knowledge both basic and in-depth.
Cars have all manner of equipment from mechanical and fluid pumps, to gear reducers and multipliers, and electrical generators and motors. How the geometry of the individual suspension parts affect movement, the variations in cohesion-of-friction between the road surface and tire treads as it constantly changes, using exhausted gases to power an air compressor that increases the oxygen density of combustion gases (turbo), and also the complex nature of the pressures involved in compressing a boiling liquid in order to transfer heat to cool things off (a/c). There are entire professions dedicated to each of those individually, but as an automotive mechanic you really need a baseline understanding of all of those to be an effective all-rounder.
When I came over to fixing computers and electronics, the first thing I learned was how they worked from the bottom up. Weāre not talking EE levels, but enough to get a general idea of what and where the power and data goes and does, as well as the relation of heat and the electrical consumption of the various components and what to do with it. Again, having a strong intuitiveness of physics helps greatly in understanding everything and I found many of those things to be very relatable to cars in one way or another.
setup clock speed in Adrenaline (if you donāt mind sacrificing 10-20 fps)
min - 1500 MHz
max - 2300 MHz
solved my Sapphire Nitro+ infernal coil whine at 2950MHz (base clock)
So basically turn off overclocking, maybe even underclock?
Not necessarily underclocking, more like nudging the frequency/multiplier outside mechanical resonance of the inductors.
Iām surprised that more manufacturers donāt have a slider to adjust clock generator parameters. Thereās usually several multiplier and divider ratios that generate a given average frequency.
The only downside to changing these parameters is that it may cause instability due to increased clock jitter (error caused by fractional frequency scaling).
You can see this in action with extreme overclocking. Making tiny adjustments to the core or memory clock can reduce performance, or even crash the GPU.
The vendor normally chooses the most stable clock generator value that meets their requirements. So youāll have to keep slightly adjusting the clock until you get the best result.
EDIT: Fixed spelling.
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I used an ASUS 750w PSU with a Powercolor 7900 XTX.
Experienced coil whine (and random psu surge protections kicking in, shutting everything down after 5-6 hr gaming sessions).
Replaced PSU with ASUS ROG LOKI SFX-L 1000W 80+Platinum - Coil whine and all problems completely gone.
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