First , Â what are you wanting to cool? Knowing what you want to cool is quite important , so you can check whether components are compatible with water blocks etc.
Second , is it possible in your case? Spacing for radiators and tubing is quite important , check around online to see if people have made loops in your case. If its a very tight fit or if it's not possible , you should look into buying a new case.
I know that some graphics cards have been revised and now have new PCB's. You could unplug your card , look for a long model number or look on the box and then go here:
Buy the water block that fits your card (I didn't check and bought a water block which didn't fit)
As for the fittings and tubing , they all need to be the same. I think it'd be worth reading up on how they all fit together too , just so there isn't any confusing. However , if you don't really want to do that , then it's a good idea to buy a water cooling kit with all the fittings and tubing.Â
thanks for the reply guys IM cooling a hadron air guys, im removing the top cover to mount the rad there, i pick the heat sink and pump combo because i dont know where to mount the pump so im kinda like doing a semi custom loop i pick the thicker rad because uhmm because im cooling a KARAOKE cpu, (i5-4670k bad ones) i unfortunately got the worst, im running it on 4.1 at 1.275 volts and i can set the voltage down because itll BSOD right away, i somehow manage to fit an old H55 in my case, for my temp i get 80c on load and for idle around 36-40c. im running push pull config too, the rad is mounted at top too. im not planning to water cool my gpu because its a gtx 670 mini and i dont know if theres a block made for it. i saw a modded hadron air with a pump and reservoir mounted at the back and i wish i know what pum and res is that so i can just copy it, and also guys i can only use amazon :'( i live in hawaii so shipping is kind a bit of trouble
polish it up and hide some wires, id charge double the msrp for that job the back 2 rads are now on hinges, sitting pretty all symmetrical like. they can fold flat to the sides of the tower
and that metal bracket on the gpu, was a d-wood bracket, from the guy that NZXT based its design off of (NZXT Technologies Kraken G10 Liquid Cooled GPU Mounting Kit)
This was my mad science build before I became sane (again).
Its amazing how cheaply you can watercool. My tuberwave, aquarium pump combo lasted three years. AlphaCool microblocks where so cool back in the day....
Well looks like your thread has been hijacked. There are build logs too show off your rig as ghetto as it may be. Back to the OP's question. We need to know more -- what case and components you have and intend to cool, and your budget. You will need a reservoir of some sort unless you spend flood the loop in a bucket of demin then install the whole loop at once into the case. I've done it for people and its a right pain in the dick. If you want the effect of an AIO cooler (h100) just buy one of those off the shelf and save some money. Youtube watercooling - Singularity computers, daz mod, OC3D, Jayz2cents etc. The internet is at your disposal for ideas. Being a noob at something is fine - remedy - educate yourself. Look at builds, assess your case, budget and cooling needs. Fittings and tubing comes down to personal preference - I myself dont use barbs and havent done for many years. Tubing wise - I personally like 1/2 inch xspc stuff. If your case and proposed loop will have tight bends then go for a smaller diameter tubing and matching fittings (barbs or compression). Pumps - those apogee block/pump units are ok provided there is a speed (voltage control) fitted as the last one I came across was rather noisy. You cant go wrong with a D5 vario and a nice block from aquatuning, ek or xspc. Coolant - demin water + liquid utopia (or another biocide addictive) is hard to beat. Beware the snake oil magical coolants that have flooded the market. Those monster rads are neat but you need the space and some good quality high sp fans to push through em.
hes already said what he is cooling, if you go back to his like second post, its an overclocked i5 and a mini gtx 670
hence why i posted cooling options of my old gtx 670,
smart money would be to take the old all in one watercooler and stick it on the graphics card since it sounds like its not cooling the cpu at all (a gtx 670 on a small all in one water cooler like that properly pasted and mounted should have LOAD temps of about 45c-50c, and idles of 25c-35c here is my old gtx 670 (the full size card, with the $35 antec 620 water aio cooler running furmark at 50c QUIETLY and for that cpu, you might as well change it to stock speeds. there really shouldnt be much it cant handle, at least untill we figure out why its running so warm
then it was mentioned about case compatibility with the radiators and whatnot, to which i replied, its your case mod the sucker. if the stuff wont fit, like with mine, just Make it fit. externally mount the radiators, who wants the heat inside the case anyhow
so no the thread was not hiijacked, in fact, i thought i was being rather supportive.
but yes TWO posts were gettin a bit off topic, i dont really call that a Derailed thread
PS: to the op, id be happpy to run down and help you with some more of the basics in case you want to create a true custom loop just make sure all your barbs and fittings are the same inner and outter diameter, and dont use dangerden brand for your tubing, only use distilled water inside it, with a drop or two of pt-nuke and drop a piece of pure silver inside the resovuar even if its a sodacan, use a resovuar plz premochill advanced lrt is what i had to change my tubes too, slightly more expensive but well worth it. i got clear tubes, and they are still clear as the day they were installed. if you can, whenever you can, try to buy parts that are made of the same type of metal. my radiators are brass, (a copper alloy) my blocks are nickel plated my fittings are nickel plated ect the more different type of metals inside touching water directly, the more risk you have to start corroding away the metals
i havnt touched my loop in months (cleaning wise) the dangerden that i purchased sorta melted or something and released chemicals into the water and even corroded some of the barb fittings