Cleaning out the electronics lab downstairs and found some keyboards. Not sure if these are collectible, although keen to see if the IBM still works after 25+ years of abuse.
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From the glory days when every desk had an ashtray!
I am sure the work. Many of the PC’s they plugged into still do
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If it has an IBM sticker on it, you can’t kill it.
Middle one looks like Alps switches. Rubber domes on the others? I think mechanical boards are generally more collectible than others.
I recognize the full-size DIN connector. It’s the same pinout as a mini-DIN PS/2 plug, but in a larger form factor. If you buy/make a passive adapter, you could connect those to a modern system.
Almost forgot, there are a ton of tutorials on restoring yellowed plastic online. Can’t vouch for any one in specific.
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Yeah, I’ll hang on to the IBM board - having a good PS/2 board never hurts…
Methods of Treatment:
Pure Hydrogen Peroxide with no additives.
This is the easiest method and perfect for small items. The peroxide strength ranges from 3% to 12%. Higher concentrations above %3 can only be purchased from Hair Salon stores. This is the simplest method IF the item can be completely submerged. Weaker 3% peroxide requires longer application time.
Hydrogen Peroxide Homemade GEL.
This method has many names online: Seaglow, sauce & Retrobright. Recipes & more info available online. Honestly I dislike to complicated process.
Hydrogen Peroxide ready made GEL.
This method is perfect for large items. The peroxide gel will stick to the plastic during application.“Cream Peroxide 40Vol” 12% Strength.
Its found in hair salon stores. Simple, cheap & works.
Note: Some versions of Cream contain unwanted bleaching agents that can have unwanted effects on the plastic. Test your Cream before applying to your beloved item. I have also noticed the same issue with retrobright recipes.
The key seems to be exposing the keyboard to UV light (outside) so the chemical reaction can react with the bromine that turned it yellow.
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