Flickering with HDMI 2.1 EDID KVM.. how to stop it

Hey all,

Bought the HDMI 2.1 EDID kvm switch 1 monitor 4 computers. I can’t figure out why but it constantly randomly black screens then comes back. Usually when I am starting/stopping a game, but also while using browser, or starting apps. I have Windows, Linux and Mac systems attached. Does it on all three.

I spent the $550 on this to prevent this sort of thing, and I gotta be honest, this happens WAY more often on this KVM than my cheaper one I had prior. I bought this specifically because of this issue on the cheaper one. I thought the point of these with EDID was to fake out the monitor/keyboard/mouse as if the computer never changed. But the fact that while doing many different things seems to cause it to blank then reappear after 5 or so seconds has me wondering WTH am I doing wrong. I have TB4 and TB5 USBC cables in use. I assume those are PLENTY good for the USBC side of things. For HDMI cables I have tried 2K, 4K and 8K (generic/cheap) ones. I assumed given the 4K support if my cables going from computers to the KVM as well as the KVM to the monitor (32” OLED, previously a 40” OLED) were of good quality that would avoid any cheap wiring/electronics in the HDMI cables.

Sometimes it holds steady for hours. Sometimes it randomly blanks/reappears. It does it a LOT when I am playing a video game or switching apps though. It also seems to do it a bit when I switch computers.

The only thing I can think of is the computers somehow are adjusting as I switch to them when this occurs when I switch computers. Like its adjusting refresh rates or something?

So.. is there some way to “save” the monitor hardware settings in the KVM so that as I switch computers and/or games, etc.. it wont constantly do this flickering thing?

The symptom is Classic ™ interference from bad cables. Try club3d brand. The strategy with amazon by cable makers is to flood amazon with lots of randomly-named brands where the brand is literally just a string of letters that is vaguely sayable. It is the same wire, sometimes in different packaging, always marginal quality.

If you routed hdmi cables with something else, like a power cord, when something ramps up to play a game it emits more noise than usual, the noise is picked up by hdmi, and it cuts out.

The symptoms are Classic Bad Cables, though, whether actually bad, or just cables that don’t shield from interference and being cable managed too tightly.. I am about 95% sure if you get some not-super-long club3d cables it’ll be fine. Ideally the TOTAL length (cable A + cable B) is 10 feet or less through the kvm (NOT 10 foot cables on both sides of the kvm!)

EDID should help prevent renegotiation when switching systems, but the fact that it also happens while staying on one computer points more toward an HDMI link/VRR/refresh-rate issue. I’d test with VRR/G-Sync/FreeSync and HDR disabled, then lock the display to a fixed refresh rate and resolution. If the black screens continue across Windows, Linux, and macOS, I’d also try certified HDMI 2.1 cables and check whether the KVM has a firmware update.

I just replaced my prior Level1Techs 4 PC DisplayPort KVM with the same HDMI 2.1 EDID KVM, and I happen to have (what sounds like) the same issue. Everything generally works great, but perhaps once or twice a day, I get a brief blackout. This is with one PC and two Mac Studios (nothing on the 4th port).

I wanted to buy the club3d cables, but they weren’t available when I tried to order them. So, I ended up with 3ft and 6ft “Anker HDMI 2.1 Cable,4K@240Hz HDMI Cord, 48Gbps Certified Ultra High-Speed” cables. I’m guessing that I should also try to replace those with the club3d versions to see if that fixes the issue.

Could also be interferene, got any other cables routed with the HDMI cables? Blackout once or twice a day suggests marginal signal a transient signal taking out the HDMI. Remember when cel phones caused buzzing in speakers? This is the video version of that instead of audio.

Could try some ferrite clamps too that might help. Generally just need one of those

I usually default to Belkin, Cable Matters, or StarTech at work when I need a cable that actually meets spec.