That is why I like active stuff for desktop use. No additional box, hook up a source and you’re good. I also don’t like the ones that only work as a pair. The KRK ones are just single units, each with it’s own amp. So if one speaker implodes for whatever reason, you just have to replace that one.
The Rokits have basically the full set of analogue (analog? analogue? you know what I mean) connections. You will still need a DAC with volume control / preamp though. The nice thing is that many headphone DAC/amps with a line out will give you that option.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I’ll have a look at the links
@Zavar can you say anything about A5+ nearfield/low volume performance? As I will likely not be sitting that far away. Also sometimes I play something in the background, so I will listen at lower volumes more than anything else.
I’d also be interested if anyone has had their hands on Kanto YU2s, as those might be the closest contenders to A2+s that I have seen yet. (YU4, YU6 <-> A5+).
I’d like you to know that I’m thankful for all input, in the end I will however factor in size requirements and esthetics in my final decision (as was mentioned: likely anything here will will be a strong upgrade, and in the audio world I feel like there is always room for improvement later on ;D)
That’s actually pretty close to what I would likely do with them.
I was a little worried about the lower levels because you read everywhere just how loud they get, so thanks for letting me know.
I’ll keep monitoring this thread, and have an eye on deals (as I am in no hurry to purchase anything just yet).
I tried those out for a couple of weeks. Was not impressed at all. Really lacked bass, and the inbuilt DAC distorted with a Chromecast Audio connected via optical, even with the input sensitivity turned down as much as possible.
Also, the passive speaker connects to the active using a 3.5mm jack for power and audio. The stereo balance was terrible.
