CPU overheating, how screwed am I?

My CPU is overheating, it is hitting 90c under load and idle. The AIO is making noises when the system comes powers up.
Pipes are insulated and very warm to the touch, and one feels like it is vibrating, not noticable until you touch it. I cleaned the radiator and even tried reapplied the thermal paste. I have already reached out to the PC builder for warranty, and they are sending a new cooler.

System is surprisingly stable at 90c, other than fan speeds, there is nothing to tell me that the processor is that high. CCD1 is at 90, CCD2 is at 75. I’ll be honest I am more worried about the processor being damaged by this. Anything I can do to see if this issue damaged the processor, or would it be best to wait for the replacement cooler to arrive?

As far as I can tell the rest of the system temps are fine, and as mentioned before surprisingly stable. Temps are 20-35c, and ambient temperature has been 70-72f, and immediate area doesn’t feel that much warmer.

PC Builder: iBUYPOWER
CPU: AMD 5950x
CPU AIO: iBUYPOWER triple radiator (I think this is the issue)
Motherboard: ASRock x570s pg riptide
GPU: MSI 3070ti

Yeah, AIOs are generally considered to have a ~2-3year lifespan and then the motors go, it sounds like it’s right on the edge of that.

I did get it about 2 years ago so that is what I was thinking

If your case can fit it, a $30-$60 tower air cooler can be a sufficient replacement.

Otherwise just replace the AIO.

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Sounds like a maybe-not-dead-but-probably-dying pump (or severely obstructed - AIO manufacturers are supposed to prevent that, but…). I doubt you wouldn’t notice a leak that drastically drains it, or that evaporation through not-perfect sealing would dry it enough for that to be the issue. Having said that, having too little water/too much air would be consistent with pump noises and high temperatures too.

Both of them or just one? What brand is the AIO?

If it seems like it’s working, has been dusted and has new thermal paste on it but the CPU is still overheating it looks like the coldplate got clogged.

Does it have a flow window. If so you can see the fluid to diagnose problems with it.

I have already started the replacement though iBUYPOWER

Just one, and it is a iBUYPOWER rebranded triple fan radiator model.

No it does not.

That was my thought as well, but the noise goes away after a short period of time.

If it doesn’t have a flow indicator( small clear chamber with a paddle wheel/ propeller)
Get an inline one and place an air bleeder valve at the highest point or place your reservior at the highest point in the case.

The flow indicator will tell you if the fluid medium is actually moving
Also pump speed can affect the cpu blocks ability to shed heat into the fluid.
Too slow and the heat isnt pulled away quick enough.
Too fast a flow and the heat transference to fluid cannot efficiently occur

Effective liquid cooling requires vigilant monitoring and tweaking of pump and radiator fan speed to reach an efficient transfer
So its a tradeoff between running temps and noise that the fan and pump will produce.

We used to use intercooler technology
(2 stage liquid cooling ).
It requires careful design and is a bit more expensive to implement but not bank busting expensive.
For a pc liquid cooler the first stage radiator would be connected to longer tubing and exiting the case.

The radiator would then be submersed in a 5 gallon bucket with a small water pump to slowly circulate the water in the bucket.
The cpu cooler pump would only circulate through the block, reservior, and external radiator.
Its extremely efficient when utilized properly.

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OP has an AIO. There is no reservoir, or anywhere to hook an inline device.

As Zorak said it is an AIO, not a custom loop. I have a RMA for the cooler, though iBUYPOWER but getting a better solution is in the plans just not financially possible till a few things change, and will have changed so long as it last as long as this one did.

best thing you can do is refuse a replacement aio and get a fin stack tower instead.(see if they will provide one as a replacement)
it will do the job well enough and will be way more reliable long term.

LEGIT? I’m still using a Kraken X61 from 2014 :eyes:

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Legit. It’s like Harddrives - most kick the can after five years but some specimen can last 15-20 years if used sparingly.

You sir have been one of the few lucky ones :slight_smile:

Are there even any reasonably safe way to open AIO loop to perform maintenance like:

  • inspection of remaining fluid for contamination/gunk
  • flushing the loop
  • refiling coolant with distilled water+glycol mix

I have since moved on to custom water loop, but I have two old AIOs that probably suffer from slow loss of coolant.

EDIT: of course some german site did it with panache

Have a listen at the before/after loop cleaning pump sound at the end of page.

EDIT2:That place is a goldmine, go check the other DIY watercooling series on the site.

Will I know when it dies on me? How will I know?

Edit : looks like the CAM software shows the pump RPM’s and it’s moving from 2400 to 2700 looks like it’s fine knock wood.

I bought a second-hand Kraken X60 on eBay, circa 2016-2017. I’ve use it on different setups, and finally on my home server from early 2020 until 2 weeks ago. In other words, ariund 3.5 years, 24/7 on, after who knows how many years of total normal usage. When I took it out, it was still working. It seems NXZT did something good with those things!

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An alternative to putting a pump in the bucket to circulate the water is to put an aquarium pump next to the bucket with an air hose and air stone in the bucket. That both circulates the water, and aids in evaporation so the water stays cooler, and better able to cool the inner loop.

By the way, check out “plate heat exchanger” they are often used in brewing to bring boiling wart (used in beer making) down to a temperature that won’t kill yeast. They often have the effective area of over a square meter.

That’s really weird. Both hoses should be hot just the same (or have an indetectable to the touch difference). I stand by my idea that some algea grew inside the loop and clogged it up. If you have a new unit on the way there’s no need to take it apart or anything. Just mount the new unit and be on your way.

After a few of the replies that was my assumption. The focus on the AIO should mean the CPU is fine, and should not use the system till the new one comes in. Thinking about it I may have even used it in this state for a week or two and everything seems fine for me except for the temps.

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