dude,
all im powering is my desktop computer and its screen
400 watts draw worst possible case scenario and even that draw is "at the wall"
each unit is rated @ 810w
like at the moment, which is most likely in a power outtagge situation,
im sucking down 153 watts
seems like, when my hdds idle down im sitting on 48w tv and 97w desktop
Yea, I know. I'm talking about stress testing.
You want to test it with a scenario tougher than you plan to use it. Only then will you have peace of mind.
Seems like you will only use 20% load normally so just test it at 50% load. That's more than double your use case and should be sufficient.
electrically, ive got to do the tests
this 150 watt load = battery time
vs the split load
48w on one and the 110w desktop on the other = battery time
does the efficiency of Splitting the draw/load between the units and discharging at a slower rate
outweigh the extra life of running 2x units in a chain and or with both sets of batteries connected to a single unit
next week in the news, man burns house down taking apart tesla powerwall
It's prolly best to just split the load.
maybe.
but until i void me some warranties THE WORLD MAY NEVER KNOW!
On Apr 29, 2016 6:56 AM, "Pietro Boggio" [email protected] wrote:
Daisy chaining anything with multiple outlets with anything else that has multiple outlets is a violation of electrical and fire code and will void your warranty.
Thank You,
Pietro Boggio
Senior Technical Support Specialist
[email protected]
CyberPower Systems (USA), Inc.
Phone 877.297.6937 ext 7914 | cpsww.com
[BR]
[BR]
Well that seems like a pretty generic response
Looks like they're worried about me using all 20 plugs and overloading the system
Well here we go mr. Warranty voider
my pure sine wave power supplies hooked up in series with each other
shockingly it appears that when I pull the power closest to the wall they both click in the battery mode temporarily
because of the sudden loss and response time of the first UPS
But then ups 1 feeds pure power to the second ups and it clicks back as if it were into Mains power
not being able to tell the difference between Mains power and the battery output of the first
as I had theorized all along
And mind you I went into each unit and set its "sensitivity" to maximum
So I suppose the main question is now which way will I choose to leave them and forget that they exist
Each UPS plugged directly into the wall individually
with a desktop on 1
& a computer monitor on the other
Or one UPS with the desktop and screen
plugged into another UPS plugged into the wall
Come to think of it I should really find a way to move my modem onto the backup power
But that split load would be
50 Watts on one and 250 Watts on the other
Very different run times on that type of setup
a true split load would be both plugged into wall then a series of Y plugs that pull power from both units at once for the connected devices. so
battery backups
[] []
Y cords for device
[]device
it would require making a special outlet by hooking up 2 sets of wires to 1 outlet and having each set of wires go to a separate unit. allowing for a equal power draw between the two units and giving a better total on time. if you need to know how to wire this up let me know i will be glad to give you a bill of materials and directions.
I am considering a similar setup but no way would I daisy chain UPS's together.
If you do that, all of the current draw is going through the unit plugged into the wall. That makes no sense from a redundancy or safety point of view. I am not even going to use the same outlet when I get 2 UPS's. I want to have the current running through 2 different physical wires in my walls.
I plan to have only my PC on one UPS and everything else on the other one. That will give me max run time for my PC and my screen. Right now my UPS is only handling my PC and my monitor. My printer, router, etc are using lowly power strips (oh, the shame). I am showing 18 minutes run time which is plenty.
Trust me... I'm an engineer.
That would most definitely end in a fire. ...or at least two burnt UPS's
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/pdu/metered-ats/pdu15mhviec12at
The CyberPower PDU15MHVIEC12AT, a 12-outlet (rear) 1U rackmount metered auto transfer switch (ATS) power distribution unit (PDU),
Dual power cords can be plugged into separate power sources to provide redundancy to single-corded connected equipment.
If power for the primary source exceeds the lower or upper thresholds, or if power fails, the PDU will switch to the secondary power source to ensure continuous operation.
The PDU will switch back to the primary power source when incoming power becomes stable.
The current draw for connected equipment is displayed in amps on the front LCD for real-time load monitoring.
i don't understand the issue in that ?
400 watts don't seem like much draw to me
That's a lot more than a Y splitter lul
I'm going to leave this here:
http://www.apc.com/solutions/display.cfm?id=59BFAC22-5056-AE36-FE722E8CC1311295&ISOCountryCode=gr
Q.
Is it possible to daisy-chain UPS systems together?A.
APC does not recommend that you daisy-chain two or more UPSs together. Each unit should be plugged directly into a properly grounded wall outlet for optimum surge protection.We do not recommend daisy-chaining UPS systems for the following reasons:
Daisy-chained UPSs do not provide any extra surge protection. A UPS is designed to remove any possibility of a surge reaching the output receptacles. In the event of a surge strong enough to damage equipment, the first UPS in the chain would sacrifice itself to protect the load. This would mean that power would be removed from the second UPS in the chain, forcing the unit into battery operation.
Whenever connecting a second UPS to another UPS, the chance of overloading the first one is greatly increased. The number of receptacles in a UPS is restricted by the power limitations of the UPS itself. Even if the number of receptacles was increased, the overall Watt capacity of the first UPS would remain unchanged. The capability of the second UPS would be inversely affected by that of the first unit. Therefore, the overall Watt capacity of the configuration is no greater than that of the first UPS in line.
In most cases, daisy-chaining UPSs does not allow for extra runtime. If you are using a UPS that outputs a step-approximated sine wave when running on battery, as soon as the first UPS goes to battery operation, the second one will also do so because it will see the step-approximated sine wave as distorted or bad power. Both UPSs will discharge together and will not provide any extra runtime to the load.
If you are looking for extra runtime, we recommend one of our Smart-UPS® XL products, which have the capability of adding extra external battery packs. If you require more runtime or VA capacity than you currently have, we recommend taking advantage of our Trade-UPS® program through which you could trade in your existing UPS for a unit with a higher VA capacity or one that has extended-run capability.
Thank You @DeusQain.
I used to work for SquareD (owned by Schneider Electric, parent company of APC) designing high-current circuit breaker installations. First of all it is not really feasible to have two independent circuits in a residential environment. If you have a power failure, the whole house is going off. The next best thing to do would be to have each UPS operating on a separate circuit breaker. Plug a super heavy duty extension cord in another room and run it to the second UPS, or better yet have an electrician install a separate circuit to a new orange wall outlet. Orange electrical outlets carry a universal meaning in the electrical world: it's an isolated ground receptacle.
That would be overkill though, your UPS is probably enough.
The stuff I used to design had sensors and pneumatic actuators to kick in a generator within a split second of a power failure.
While it might be possible to do that at home, the cost would be very expensive.
Do you really want this in your house?
Yes, can also install some kenotrons and mercury arc rectifiers for me as well 😊
a PDS would work as well but what i was thinking of was a bit more ghetto and basic.I could not tell you if you have to have a board to regulate or not. i am no electrical Engineer just a hobbyist that takes risks and sometimes play's "sparky" as a result.
but none of those reasons are applicable in my situation
Are you plugging one UPS into the other?