So up until the twenty teens, most Logic ran on 3.3v, with the odd system using 5v. If you supply 5v, you will more than likely kill it so don’t do that.
If it is second hand, more than likely something happened to it, like corrosion, moisture, or the like. I would look for burned traces, or corrosion, or water damage first. If everything else seems to be working, it is more than likely not the IC. If you can find the trances, you can bypass them and go to the IC and see what happens.
Unfortunately, there is not enough information to really help you troubleshoot. Maybe see if there is a repair manual for this thing out there on the NordicTrack site?
That’s the thing, I got down to the actual PCB solder points that go to the switches, and found a legit good ground on the PCB, and “shorted” the various 3.3v high sides to said ground directly therefore replicating what the switches would be doing but cutting out all of the middle men parts.
So it makes me think the internals of whatever IC is being used as the drop down detection of its own 3.3v out is going bad.
Additional notes:. Did a workout yesterday and used the capacitance keys this time to change resistance, the hand bar buttons didn’t work. So I guess it’s a good thing the capacitance buttons are going to a totally different controller that then talks to some brain as to telling the android screen what the resistance is at plus putting the servo to that setting.
Yeah a better techie could probably do circles around this thing and take this as an opportunity to upgrade. I think I’ll rock the quick settings buttons for now as I’ll likely brick something if I work on this more.