WTS: Trunk-LOC by PAC


for sale is one used


for 15bucks shipped.

this lets you create an RCA output(left and right) for a subwoofer in your car (if your head unit doesnt have one or you have stock headunit that doesnt have one)

it takes the audio signals from your speakers (usually the rear) runs it into the trunk-LOC amplifier then into your subwoofer amp, into  your subwoofer. Even has  a remote wire so you can use that to turn on your subwoofer amp.

Here is the manual for wiring the PAC Trunk LOC. PAC-audio.com has it within their archived files and here it is...

(All this info. was taken from pac-audio's website archive file)
2 Channel Line Output Converter w/ Low Voltage Trigger Remote Output

Gray wire - positive right rear speaker

Gray/Black wire - negative right rear speaker

White wire - positive left rear speaker

White/Black wire - negative left rear speaker

Black wire, ground supply - ground wire

Red wire, +12v supply - wired to amplifier’s constant +12 volt input.

Green wire, (+) trigger input - wired to a lead speaker. Manuf. mentions "when radio is turned on, there will be approximately 6 volts DC on any speaker wire. The Green wire will trigger at minimum 0.8 volts."

Blue wire, (+) 12 volt remote out - wired to amp remote turn-on input. Manuf. mentions "this wire will provide +12volts when the Green wire is triggered. The output delays one second before turning on to eliminate any turn-on pops."

RCA cables are connected to amp RCA inputs.

Finally, adjust Trunk-LOC gear to match your speaker volume. (I guess there is a way of doing so on the equipment...?)

I recommend to everyone to avoid using "T-Taps". They eventually lose their connectivity over time. Professionals recommended you pull back the wire (use an automatic wire separator) and solder in the wire.

Don't cut factory wires, it's not worth the pain and agony!

Hope this helps.