I bought a Wasabi Mango UHD420 a week or so ago. Unfortunately, I did not realize there were two versions of this monitor out there. One with HDMI 2.0 and one without. I got the older version, but it's OK because it can still do [email protected] with DP 1.2.
The monitor is absolutely beautiful and pixel perfect. Very happy with it overall, but I'm noticing a flickering glitch at [email protected] similar to this (but not quite that bad and obvious). Apparently it's a problem with the scalar board inside the monitor, and I should be able to replace this myself if I have a replacement board. I contacted the seller to see what they say. I'm trying to avoid having to ship this back because that's gonna cost a lot.
From Wendell's review the newer model of the monitor uses a Kangjin K-4500 board and is looks like mine uses a K-4400 board. Is it unrealistic to expect replacing my faulty board with the newer model to give me HDMI 2.0 and Freesync and such? Should I just stick to replacing it with the same model board I have?
Yeah that video is mine. Few people have come forward with the issue now. Try and get them to send the V2 board, just make sure it can fit the V1 screen as I'm unsure myself.
Getting a replacement board is a better option than sending it back, I wish I did this because so far getting a defect free screen has been difficult to say the least. And yes the newer board should work just fine in that screen, IF IT FITS. Only Wasabi Mango would know for sure.
I may have to do some exploration to look at the mounting holes and such inside the monitor to see if that board will fit. They look like a similar size/shape in the pictures, but the listed dimensions are slightly different. The boards themselves look so drastically different also. It's a tough call to make.
How much do they cost anyway? Seller able to replace it for you?
Also someone might be able to give you a picture of one mounted in a V2 monitor so you can see what plugs are connected, and compare them to yours. Allot of the connections on the board may not even be used, just there for compatibility sakes.
I don't know how much the boards cost by themselves. I have the links to them, but don't know how to go about buying one. I only messaged the seller a few hours ago, so I haven't heard back yet.
I did some teardown and exploration of my monitor and took pictures. Apparently I have a K-4000 board instead.
The spec sheets they list on the Kangjin website are very detailed and they have diagrams of the boards on the final pages with measurements for everything. Doesn't look like I'll easily be able to mount a newer board into my monitor without a new mounting plate to accompany it.
yeah, so you have 3 boards in yours? it's hard to say which one could be to blame. Clearly a design fault. I would be keen to come up with a k-4500 upgrade solution as the mounting holes appear to exist. All you need is standoffs like how a PC motherboard is installed.
The thing you gotta make sure is that the 4500 is able to accommodate all the current connectors going to the k-4000. I do know that the V2 has the same LCD so really can't see a issue except for if the back cover will fit on correctly or not. Does the back plastic cover have enough space for a larger board to mount in or is it moulded to fit that smaller k-4000 board. (if not we can make it fit damnit).
The other issue is, will another K-4000 just crap out the same as this one making it kinda pointless to get a replacement board.
If someone has a UHD420 V2 and is able to remove the back plastic cover and take some screenshots, please do.
PS. When mounting a K-4500, near enough is good enough as far as I'm concerned :), if you get two bottom screws in to line up the connectors, then that should do.
You will need possible standoffs further up to keep the k-4500 flush and not touching the plate of cause (and the standoffs not touching any connections also). Oh and you will need to leave the shroud cover off clearly (we don't need dat shit!)
We could also just 3D print out plastic covers for the back sections needed and ditch the entire back plastic cover. :)
If I was in your shoes I definitely try to get the K-4500 installed. It can be done, just a matter of knowing if you need to flash update the board or not, and if it will take an update via USB port happily. Hopefully doesn't need a flash write adapter.
The control board is an LG TM120 UHD v0.6, but I think it's safe to rule this out because this gets put in a lot of other LG products. The cutaway for the back plastic is big enough. No modification needed. The shroud on the scalar board is in two parts: the main shroud, and then a smaller part that has specific cutouts for the HDMI/DP ports that this board has. The smaller part I would probably have to leave off, but the main shroud should work. I didn't look at the standoffs for the mounting place too hard, but it didn't seem it was quite as simple as screwing new standoffs in. It felt like they were riveted in or something, but again I didn't look too hard at it.
Well get a price on the K-4500 and see if its worth it.
Also contact the seller and tell them you wish want a replacement board. Then at least if the 4500 doesn't work you can just use the replacement scalar, and hope that it doesn't screw up also.
It looks like the problem may be as simple as a faulty DisplayPort cable being shipped with the monitor. I assumed it must be good, but I tried a new cable to rule it out, and thus far I haven't had a single glitch. I'm gonna keep an eye on it as my apartment is particularly cold today, and it was hotter when it was actually glitching, but I do think I may be in the clear.
Wasn't case for me, I tried 6 different cables, at least 2 of them where HBR2 certified!
Even with the old cable I can't seem to reproduce the problem anymore. I'm trying to heat up my room and see because that is the only variable that is different. I feel like temperature is an unlikely cause, but I don't know what else is different.
I had periods of time (hours) where the glitch went away. Was weird, so just keep using it, it will probably show its ugly head again.
by far the best "budget" DP cables are the sans-clips rubberized dell DP cables. They are nearly problem-free.