Yeah, I just wish last summer's models were available this summer. UHD420 or those AMH models.
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You have to be sadistic to turn 40 inch monitors vertically/portrait. Or a Giraffe.
I start to realize you are right about this. I rotated my Dell 27 inch screen 90 degrees and my neck already hurts.
Imagine you'd do this with a 40 inch screen...
With a large, deep desk, it's pretty awesome having 3 of these side-by-side in portrait mode.
You are talking about a really deep desk. At least 70cm away from yourself. My eyesight is really good and with my 27" screen at 130 ppi, 50-60cm away feels about right. The point im trying to make is; yes you can buy a 40" 4k screen and twist it vertically, but to be able to see the the top and bottom, you need to push it further back, which reduces the amount of pixels you can see clearly.
What matters, I guess...
- distance away from the monitor
- the dpi of the screen.
- your eye sight
- field of vision.
And probably some other things.
edit: this is just a really long way to say, what @gmoney was saying before: ie. you gotta be a giraffe.
It seems you can rotate you screen 180 degrees to get RGB again. So maybe the 43 inch models are they way to go. Thanks for pointing me towards them, @jann.
Some people also like their TV monitors, like the U400 and the Cocot402ut. So bad there is not a really good candidate at 40 inch. (60hz, display port, rgb, no serious inpu lag, no pwm, matte display).
http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/peripherals/f/3529/t/19541142
Ok, here is my experience/mini review and some observations I made after 1.5 days of usage. I will mainly be covering monitor/calibration settings and latency test using various options.
I brought the Wasabi Mango UHD400 from AccessoriesWhole exactly last week, and it took till the end of the 5th business day before it arrived at my doorstep in Perth, Australia. I brought the Pixel Perfect listing, though my monitor has 4+ defective pixels and about 1 or 2 dead pixels as you can see in a picture above. I’m not going to complain about it in this review, but just a warning that you may get defective pixels even if you purchase the pixel perfect option. (Save yourself some cash and get the normal listing)
The monitor itself was configured in English out of the box and my GPU (ASUS Nvidia Geforce GTX 680) did not list the 60Hz option when ran in 4K and ran the latest firmware (Real4K0222VS).
I had to create a custom resolution profile to force the panel to run in 60Hz. It also supports YCbCr444 colour format, the actual 4:4:4 Chroma subset which is great.
The panel out of the box has one of the worse calibrations I’ve seen in any monitor. The picture modes that came with the panels are trash and the whitepoint has a very blue/green tint colour, even at 6500K setting mode. The good news is the panel is actually very decent to use after calibration, it has roughly 100% sRGB gamut coverage (my one measured at 98.3%), which is nice. Most good panels these days are 100% sRGB, so it’s nothing to be impressed with. It has 68% Adobe RGB gamut coverage, which is pretty average with the other panels in today’s market. (Though you can’t really expect a TV 4K panel to have more than 100% sRGB)
(Calibration done by DisplayCAL 3.1.4.0 and X-Rite Colorimeter)
Monitor settings:
Brightness: 100
Contrast: 75
Saturation: 60
Hue: 50
Gamma: 2.2
Aspect Ratio: 1:1
DCR: Off
Color Bypass: Off
Picture Bypass: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Temperature: User
Red: 100
Green: 76
Blue: 68
Response Time: Off
Freesync: Off (I don’t have AMD GPU)
HTML measurement report output:
http://puu.sh/qkXsB/0d7d159dae.html
Calibration files:
http://puu.sh/qkWX6/98cad31e5c.zip
(I recommend installing it using DisplayCAL, as it handles installing ICM a lot better than Windows does and also use my monitor settings if you do)
I should note that if you have a colorimeter it is better to calibrate it yourself, as every panel is different (colour wise).
Also, I will post a new calibration after a month or two of usage. As the colour of a panel changes over time.
Interesting observations when calibrating:
Monitor by default is set to at 50 Saturation, however at 50 Saturation you actually lose some Gamut Coverage.
98.3% sRGB vs 94.2% sRGB
At 60 Saturation, the colours look closer to my IPS panel and pops out a bit more. Though it does not have the colour clarity of an IPS panel, but however has no IPS glow (though my panel has a bit of backlight bleeding, but nothing too serious to even notice) and blacks look way darker as the contrast ratio is impressively high as it is a VA panel.
Latency wise, with all image processing turned off and response time turned off. It’s about 16ms slower than my TN Panel (TN panel is about 16-17ms slower than a CRT). So you’re looking at a latency of about 30-40ms compared to a CRT panel.
With response time enabled, the results are way worse than with it off:
33ms and 18ms.
With response time enabled, you suffer from more severe ghosting and is far more noticeable than initially:
With response time ON:
With response time OFF:
Wasabi Mango UHD400 notes/issues & weird quirks:
Monitor’s metal frame where the logo is located gets very hot.
Panel is semi-glossy, not true matte.
Picture bypass just turns off Noise Reduction and Super Resolution. (Greys them out) Leaving them all off is best if you’re not upscaling.
Colour bypass turns off Whitepoint Color tab, I do not recommend you turning it on. Better to let the monitor handle Whitepoint as it’s more accurate than using your GPU.
Image picture processing doesn’t impact latency, at least with the 20+ photos I have taken using various different settings.
Response Time enabled can impact latency, making it slower at times and causing visible ghosting. (Useless feature, DO NOT USE).
Need to increase Saturation to get more gamut coverage.
Really bad colour calibration out of the factory.
It is not flicker free, it has PWM, though I use 100% brightness so I don’t really notice it.
350cd/m^2 is BS, after calibration using those above settings, at best it’s 195cd/m^2 (hence why I use 100 brightness, at least it’s flicker free, amirite? xD). It’s about 300cd/m^2 with default whitepoint colour settings with 100% brightness.
Final thoughts and conclusion:
Overall, I’m quite happy with the Wasabi Mango UHD400. The build quality is a lot higher than I expected and the panel after proper colour calibration is quite the joy to the eyes. Though with only 1.5-2 days of usage, I cannot say much more other than what I have done tested so far with the monitor. I will however say, it’s a great monitor at this price point, but please do keep in mind with the issues I described above before making your purchase.
I know this isn’t a full review of the monitor, but however I do hope I helped out a few people with this mini review.
My final setup:
If you have any questions regarding the monitor, feel free to ask them and I will try my best to reply.
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Thanks for the great update! I'm sure that it will help a lot of people with purchasing this panel. :-)
Also, it gives me some ideas on calibrating my Wasabi Mango UHD 430.
In case anyone is interested about the defective pixels, I posted this in another forum:
I brought this monitor recently from AccessoriesWhole and I have some dead and defective pixels even though I picked the Pixel Perfect Version.
Perfect Pixel WASABI MANGO UHD400 REAL 4K HDMI 2.0 40" Samsung PVA Panel Monitor
I have contacted the seller asking for a partial refund. I will see how that goes and keep you guys updated about that.
That's just one example, there are other defective pixels. I'm still waiting for a reply, expecting one in a day or two as I sent the question over the weekend. Will post back whether I get the partial refund or not.
Totally agree on factory calibration.
How do you get the calibration to stick? As I've written before, mine resets each time the monitor goes to sleep or is turned off. And the only way to get back to calibrated profile is to turn the Color Bypass on and off (so that's a lot of annoying button/remote pressing multiple times a day).
What are your steps to calibrating this (or any) monitor? The Picture tab settings you use?
I got a calibrator just after buying this panel, so any info would help a lot! :)
Which tab in the OSD menu settings are you talking about not sticking? Because the monitor settings actually stick through sleep and a hard cold switch off at the wall. I'm not sure why it doesn't stick for you, I take it you're on the latest firmware version?
If you have a colorimeter, it's always better to calibrate yourself. As every panel is different and the colours can't all be the same on every panel, but they are similar. Hence why using other people's calibrated profile may look better at times, or even make it worse depending on the panel.
Can you tell me the brand and model of your colorimeter? Because if it is supported by ArgyII CMS then you can use DisplayCAL (also known as dispcalGUI) then it is recommended that you use that tool. As ArgyII CMS is open source with many features and functionality that is way better than the default software that comes with your colorimeter.
As for the settings for it, it's subjective. Personally I like color accurate results that you see in real life and photography. So therefore the whitepoint would be 6500K, gamma of 2.2 and 120 CD/m^2. Though 120 CD/m^2 is pretty dim in a bright room, so I generally use closer to 200 CD/m^2. 120 CD/m^2 is pretty good for indoors and low light conditions.
I guess I could post the settings I use for DisplayCAL, but it's pretty self-explanatory. But feel free to ask if you need them or any other pointers.
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I have a X-Rite ColorMunki Display.
I used the bundled software, so maybe that's a problem. During calibration, the UHD400 turns off for a moment, while my Dell U2713HM doesn't do that. I'll try DisplayCAL tomorrow, as it seems my device is supported.
Can you post the Picture tab OSD settings you use? (and Color too, if those in the photo aren't final).
Don't use the included software for that Colorimeter it's horrible.
There is a lot of reading to do for DisplayCAL http://displaycal.net/
I recommend you read that, as it covers everything you need to know before calibrating.
The settings I used can be found in my mini review. But I do not recommend you use them, if you're calibrating yourself using your own colorimeter. As the whitepoint accuracy is different from panel to panel. However I do recommend that you turn up your saturation to 60 before you calibrate and leaving your gamma at 2.2. I tested it and it seems to give more gamut coverage. The other settings do not matter much, i.e. hue, contrast, brightness is all subjective to people to people.
Also when you're installing the ArgyII CMS USB drivers, you will need to disable driver enforcement signing before you boot into Windows. A lot of people don't do that and their Colorimeter will not work with DisplayCAL.
Does this forum have a DisplayCAL or dispcalGUI tutorial? If not maybe I can make one up that might help introduce people into using the software.
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Great news! AccessoriesWhole gave me a partial refund of the difference between the non pixel perfect listing and the pixel perfect listing which is $73USD.
Overall I'm very happy with the support they offered, they were very fast with their response and processed the refund straight away.
Definitely the seller to buy from!
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Great news!
After recalibrating with DisplayCAL, my UHD400 doesn't reset to factory calibration after rebooting, etc.
I'll probably mess with calibration now a bit more, but overall it's finally usable for me!
So thank you again wavezero for the writeup on DisplayCAL ^_^b
No worries, though I been a bit busy to do a tutorial. Plus, I feel I would butcher it when it comes to explaining the details, compared to the excellent write-up by the DisplayCAL's team on their site. Very polish and easy to navigate site if you ask me. All I can do is give what settings I use and that's it. Besides as you see, the program is pretty self-explanatory, even with the advance option turned on.
All the best with tampering with the settings, I notice calibration quality is still quite good with faster speeds. So I wouldn't worry too much. Personally I use medium speed.
Those of you who have purchased one of these recently. Is your panel aligned properly with the bezel or is there a extra thick black bar on the top and left sides of the panel? I have a friend interested in buying one and this was one of the things that made me return mine. I'm not paying $600 for a monitor that isn't even in the center of the bezel.
Seems to be aligned just fine on my monitor. I guess it's a QC issue, though I did pay premium for a Pefect Pixel option (though I have dead pixels).
Awesome thanks. Myself and a few others in this thread had ghetto oriented panels way back when these first became available. Looks like it will be OK to purchase now.
I recently purchased the UHD400 Pixel Perfect from NewEgg as a replacement to the AMH A409U that was returned due to two clusters of dead pixels. This monitor seems to be almost perfect except I'm noticing that it has these faint vertical lines everywhere on the screen. It is very visible on plain or continuous flat spaces with one solid color. What I'm trying to determine is this a bad monitor or is this what every one of theirs looks like? I have attached a picture to let you know what I'm talking about.
Edit: It is quite hard to see from that picture but it is much more visible in person and when you view the full resolution of the picture you can tell.
I don't get that with a white background, looks very noticeable on yours. Are you using 100% brightness? As your camera will pick up the PWM lines.