Video signal goes out when playing

When playing games recently i have had my screens go blank with fans spool. audio that is not part of game still plays. I think either the gpu is going bad or the psu is going bad and cannot supply enough power during spikes.

when using PSU calculators I get results all over the place for what I should have.
I currently have

silverstone 600w psu SFX
4 fans
1 ssd

no overclocks.

Also the psu is over 7 years old I heard that with use power supply degrade over time.

What do you think it is?
Im currently leaning to upgrade psu and case while im at it and hope for the best.


edit Just happened again :frowning:

edit Figured I should add more info.
I started about a month ago. happened at end of match in world of warships. happened 2-3 times before I lowered settings. was fine until today happened once at match end and once in the middle of the match.

While it is possible for a PSU to keep kicking over 7 years, being one of the most important and potentially dangerous components of any computer, it is a good idea to proactively replace it. I tend to replace mine with at least a bronze-certified model every 3 to 5 years. When they start to falter, they can damage anything they’re jacked into, so better safe than sorry.

I’m not saying it’s your power supply, but even if it isn’t, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace that sucker ASAP before something worse happens.

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I’ve had a similar issue in the past and it was due to a bad HDMI cable.

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Driver crash will do that. That could JUST be driver bullshit, could be related to GPU hardware problem, could be PSU voltage drop…

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could be hpet needs enabling in eufi or bios…
enter bios/eufi and check hpet (high precision event timer) is enabled.
it often ships in the default off but is an essential hardware clock for some versions of windows and linux.

also the last 2 nvidia driver updates have been black screening like the driver stops and then restarts…
but normally that happens with a windows chime of new hardware detected…
but the last two. it just went blank. and then came back. no chime.

and while your psu is old.
its still well above requirements at 600w and from a top tier manufacturer.

all told the system has drawn maybe 450w maximum load.
so even with degradation your psu would still have headroom today.
although at 7 years old its 2 years outside warranty so would be a good decision to swap it out for a newer model.

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Cables are cheap enough will order some when I get the PSU.

Will update drivers again. Did not realize that 2 in a row were bad.

Figured this would be the best solution.
Would you suggest 850 or 1000 for something with longevity and headroom?
also would it be worth getting the new 12vhpwr connector or just upgrade psu again if i get new gpu down the road?

not the best idea mate you can over spec your psu and as a result run it at way less efficiency than its rated for…

most decent psu’s hit there peak efficiency between 50 and 80% load.
but below 50% load the efficiency drop off can be dramatic, with some falling well short of even 80+.

his system 650w would be perfect.
giving 200w of headroom as his system draw will average above 50% doing anything above idle and 70% at peak load.
sitting in the peak efficiency part of the psu’s power curve.

850w even at full load it would be struggling to get the psu to 50% load and as a result struggle to maintain the 80+ efficiency.
1000w the load would be around 35% max and the psu could be pulling as much as 650w from the wall where as the 650w would be pulling 540w max.

so basically just by choosing to over spec the psu your probably increasing your power consumption.

isn’t 600w pretty low for a 2070 Super?
20 series was where you started seeing problems with transients and power supply related stability.

Power supply efficiency ratings are for 20% on the low end for white through plat, and 10% for titanium. Your idle power will be slightly higher, I don’t think it’s that big a deal to be drawing 65w instead of 55w. It doesn’t usually even fall off that badly until you’re in the <50w range.
Generally, a power supply will remain within the 80% spec or close to it down to 5~10%, and drop down to maybe 50% only at the lowest loads. We don’t know what kind of power supply it is, so it might be a crazy bad lemon, but I think being a crazy bad lemon is worse than being somewhat less efficient at the lowest loads.
Also, the lowest loads are unrated, but not necessarily inefficient. Many power supplies with 80+ bronze will remain fairly efficient down to 5 or 10%, but a 80+ gold rated unit that does meet 80+ gold spec might still end up with 70% or 60% efficient at 5%. If it’s a good quality unit, you can expect efficiency at low load to be more or less a non issue.
1000 watts might be a bit much, you could be hitting <5% at desktop idle and drawing 50w instead of 30w or something, but I think modern systems typically see 40~60w+ on the idle state.
650w “should” be fine, but it’s probably a good idea to go for 850w just to mitigate potential problems with ever increasing power draw of modern GPUs. Maybe 1000w, but there should be more priority given to quality than to wattage in your budget.

12vhp is in a bit of an odd place right now, where there’s some issues with the connector specification, so it may be revised again, but I think if you get a unit with 12vhp and the spec is revised, there will probably be adapters you can use to comply with the new spec, or even modular cables you can buy that will be less than a new power supply.

I’d go with something with the new connector if it’s not too much more money. Likewise, I’d aim for platinum or titanium efficiency these days. Gold is the new bronze; it’s fine on a budget, but if you want to buy something premium, buy something premium. If it’s new and not platinum or better, it’s not premium.
Heck, even platinum is sort of midrange these days for power supplies.

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I ended up Buying this

Not enough 12vhpw psu available and more than i want to spend for a standard that might not have a future with its current launch.

Also a 5 pack monoprice DP 2.0 cables

Will have to set psu on top of pc case until the new case come because wont fit Ncase. Did want to switch to full atx PSU anyway. Bigger fan and more selection with better prices.

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tiz a bit overkill but will likely serve you for your next build too…

Just a Update.
I turned down the settings while waiting for the parts and it stopped.
then today it happened once. i did not have the case so i just have the new psu next to my Ncase. Has not happened again. even turned the setting back up.

Whatever was happening i don’t think it was my psu slowly degrading. seems to be going downhill fast. Will probably try to convert it to lab bench power supply duty.

Still waiting on my new Case XprotoL to get here from China.

Thanks for the suggestions.