very very nice job. good luck.
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An idea for a user serviceable / replaceable USB power socket for the wall, via a PoE switch. I’ve used these for raspberrypi 's and they do a good job for years. Saves feeding a 240V cable that’s only used for 5V device. Still unsure if I really want a double socket for a single USB, but as the wall has acoustic protection, I don’t want too much stuff between the studs, or create the need to remove the backbox to replace the PoE splitter.
I could just as easily drop a 1mm cable mains cable split off the lighting circuit, but as this USB is to be used for an LED, I like it powered by the Switch that’s powered by a UPS (good in a powercut to keep the lights on).
@wendell comments welcome 
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Got the wall done, now moving onto the door openings
need to widen this original door, did think the white painted bit on the left of the door was enclosing pipework/electric, but investigated and it doesn’t. Phew.
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Bit of a shame this morning, had to remove this stud and the noggins behind, decided to widen the original door opening as it won’t be a door afterwards but an extension of the hall way.
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Need to reroute some cables as there is a switch on part of the wall that’s going.
Well I got some done, fiddly stuff though. Started with having to move this light switch, just over to left a few inches.
here’s the back of it, I had to remove one cable from it first
new switch position on left, used a flush mount backbox instead of the old surface mounted box, which I’ve left in place for privacy to the bedroom occupant
The problem I had was bearing the new end wall stud on something, this supports the floor joists in the loft above
I cut down 2 6x2’s which luckily sit on a steel beam below (the new stud will rest on them), you can also see where I’ve boxed up some previously loose connections (temporary as I might reroute them)
Setting out the new end of wall stud, now cables are set to the right of it
The problem I have of course, is the plasterboard on the back is screwed in to the old timber on the left. So I’ve packed out the new stud so some strong adhesive ‘should’ hold that board to the new stud to avoid floppy board.
I’ve temporarily moved the light switch to its new position
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glues dried so check fitting, using a temporary noggin to align it better, once glue is on back face, I’ll quickly put this same noggin in and then I can start measuring for all the noggins on the right hand side of it
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pre cut the noggins so I didn’t have to muck around with the existing electric cables
just need to screw them in, time for a cuppa tea though.
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Spent some time getting the stud attached to the new wall stud precisely plumb, making it easier to put the door linings on, hopefully I’ll do that tomorrow. So far I won’t have to trim the door down at all, as I put the effort into framing.
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There is a door opening where there wasn’t one
and a door fits in it (not hinged yet)
lining wasn’t straight, so clamps and levels
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wow you did a really nice job.
Thank you - 50% done at least!
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Bit of a delay since the last update, my bad, just work got on top of me…as usual!
Fitted the new WC door, will need to come back off for painting
Glued dowels which come off when it’s dried and put temporary stops on
started the floating shelf - she likes her books
Fitted new bedroom door (again, needs coming off for painting)
Put the first stage of acoustic insulation up (yeah, it’s just underlay, but it’s cheap and makes a difference especially once sealed up a bit where gaps are)
It’s draped on the floor, might be overkill but I’ll take floor boards up and have it go down to the top of the downstairs ceiling. I’ll also pack the floor voids top and bottom to avoid sound from the loo going under or over.
Next will be acoustic plasterboard to the bedroom side, then finish off floating shelf.
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Well that was annoying, the underlay was less compressible than hoped, so I’ve had to re-wrap it between the stud instead of over it 
starting with the acoustic plasterboard
primed the door linings to avoid the plastering sucking out the moisture and warping them.
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If that one of these collapsible aluminum stairs? I really want one. Care to give me a short opinion on it?
Is indeed, they are pretty good for light work (search word would be telescopic ladder), but a lot of tradesman distrust them as they are prone to collapse, especially the cheaper made ones from certain countries. That said, I’ve abused this ladder (carry heavy things while on it) for nearly 12 years and while it bends, it’s never failed. I hope that helps.
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