I'm looking for a thermal glue to mount an AIO water cooler to a laptop CPU. I'm looking for a non perm solution that can be removed later on. Is there such a thing? most of the ones I've read about are permanent.
I'll probably get the Corsair H80 or H75. If you're curious why im bothering with all that. is because i have this nice laptop with an (i7 4700mq, 16GB DDR3L, SSD+HDD and an RX470 eGPU) as a desktop replacement but its stock heat sink is too weak for the processor to run at full boost speeds (3.4-3.6 Ghz)on all four cores. I have already replaced the thermal paste and used MX-4 compound which helped a lot in the thermals but still cant run all four cores any more than 3.0 Ghz without hitting thermal throttling.
if you have any alternative idea, please share it. ill appreciate your input. Cheers.
You can't take off those kind of adhesive with ease, especially off of something as fragile as a CPU die. There must be some mounting points on the board that were made for the original cooler. Why don't you try to use those with a custom back plate made from some scrap metal? I think would work a lot better. Or you could use some zip ties in a cross pattern. The die is really small so you can get away with having more pressure in the center than at the sides. Btw an H80 or an H75 is overkill to cool a notebook CPU, you can get away with a much less expensive cooler, even those low profile ones.
I like your suggestions, they seem more reasonable than thermal glue. There are 3 mounting points around the CPU socket in a rectangular shape so a custom made bracket is possible but wont be easy.
There is another way but it will be less effective, i can zip tie the cooler directly on the heat pipes and use copper shams and/or thermal pads as an intermediate surface between them, that would save me the trouble of taking it apart. But again I don't expect it to be very efficient.
The reason for using water cooler because it would easier to mount and it is lightweight compared to normal coolers which i think would require a support mechanism so it doesn't break the mobo. plus i don't mind paying extra 30-50$ for an AIO.
But only if the stock cooler surface that mates to the CPU die is copper.
Mounting an AIO is going to be sketchy at best. The screw holes for the stock cooler has a proprietary screw pattern which means you have to use/make an adapter.
Is it really worth it to you? Why not just get a desktop at that point?
yeah it is worth to keep. and even if I get a new desktop (waiting for ryzen), i don't plan on selling it coz where i live it wouldn't sell for more than 400$. so ill keep it anyway.
the cooler has a copper die so it will def be better than the mx-4 but I really wanna get rid of it, coz even if that worked, I would still have to bear its loud fan noise.
If the two holes in the top (first picture you attached) have a "standard" distance making an adapter with a piece of metal for the standard bracked of an AIO is going to really easy I think. Just a straight piece of metal that screws in two holes and has one in the dead center, done. Sure, the AIO is much easier on the motherboard than an air cooler.
I meant is it worth it to attach an AIO? You're effectively defeating the purpose of having a laptop to squeeze ~13% out of it and have a quieter fan of course.
The other thing to think about here is how to power it. You have to power a pump and fan, which were designed for a desktop. Thats not a small amount of power you can dismiss. If you used both fans in the h75 or h80 they could draw upwards of 5-6W plus whatever the pump is going to draw. You dont have normal fan headers either so you basically have to have an external power supply. Those AIO's are going to want a 12v rail. CORRECTION: the h80 will need one, the h75 you could probably use USB.
They dont. Well they technically do, but only for the manufacturer of that laptop. If you look at the memory slots above it you can roughly guess they are about 2" apart. SODIMM being around 2.66" in length. I checked with the adobe measure tool and came up with 1.95" C.C.
I like where you're going here but it would need to adapt all the screw holes. Were talking about using something made for desktop sockets. Those screw holes are much further apart than the ones pictured. Take for instance socket 775, which is the smallest spacing I think is supported, thats 2.84" C.C. Then theres the ram slots and other components, you would have to work around those. And lets not forget about the thickness, it has to sit perfectly parallel on the CPU die and be fairly sturdy.
Not saying it cant be done but I think its going to take a little more work than drilling some holes in a strip of metal.
Sure I know that but I know that I made it look too easy. I guess some planning and precision can make things work out. To be honest I wasn't so aware as you are of all of those specifications regarding holes distances. Sturdiness it's not too much of a concern if it's not moved around too much. Also the base of the cooler will make contact directly with the DIE so the pressure required is surely less than the one needed for a CPU with lid.
I am using the laptop as a desktop replacement and it already has an eGPU connected to its PCIe 3.0 x8 connector along with a 600W PS. I can connect it to that PS since its already there.
the extra performance should make few fps diff specially in games that needs the extra CPU clock, currently it runs @ 2.8 Ghz (all 4 cores) @about 75-80c without throttling. It can be pushed to 3.5-3.6Ghz boost if thermals would allow it.
So I guess the diff would be worth it. the specs are okay for 1080p gaming. it has 16GB ram, m.2 ssd and two sata ports.
I can also make a pwm controller easily to vary the fans speed using some 555 circuitry or an Arduino if it doesnt come with a usb port.
so I'm not that worried about its power nor controlling its fan/pump speed.
I just thought that there is some kind of thermal glue that can be removed with some force without causing damage Coz I really hate perm stuff =.=
I appreciate all the replies. gimme more of your opinions. I'd like to hear y'all before I go and buy the parts. cheers.
If you can get one of the original H80i v1, it only required a usb header for power. That would be fairly simple to implement.
Theres stuff like this:
I dont have any experience with removing stuff like this though. Its meant for a different purpose entirely, so cant say I'd recommend it. Seems like after its cured though you could probably get it to come off.
Doesn't the stock heat sink cover more than just the CPU? I guess if you were planning on bolting the AIO to the stock pipes as an auxiliary cooler it wouldn't matter but if not you've probably got GPU and vram (maybe?) to deal with as well.
Regardless of what you end up doing, please provide updates... this Frankenstein project is an intriguing one.
Ill just put some small heatsinks to cover the vrams and gpu and most importantly the PCH. I dont use the dGPU bcoz i already have eGPU as a said before. and it is disabled anyway. but im going to install small (heatsinks that are originally made up for a raspberry pi) regardless.
Thanks for following. ill prob make another post with photos showing the final result.
