They have tons of videos some specific to what youre looking into.
Take on a project, you can buy or build all kinds of electonic kits to put together including amplifiers. Some good equipment helps, but I started with a cheap radioshack 40w iron. Now I use a nice Hakko. Some solder comes with a rosin core but extra flux is really handy. Flux just cleans and helps the metals accept solder. Little bit of wick to clean messes and you're all set.
Remember to turn off the iron when you're done or away...
Needle nose pliers, side cutter, magnifying glass (somewhat optional), tweezers, soldering iron (get one of the better ones, Weller or Metcal for example), ...
Software tip: If you want to work with microcontrollers or plan your projects in general, take a look at this: http://fritzing.org/home/
big clive, eev are good if you want reviews of some meters soldering irons and and stuff.
maybe couple sizes of solder a small thin one for the pcb stuff, and a bigger one is nice for doing more general or larger stuff, like guitars, speaker cabinets etc. spools of various guages, colors of insulation wire heat shrink various sizes maybe various colors wire stripper(s) soldering iron station or holder the tip cleaner jar or whatever flux desoldering braid/desoldering pump or whatever definitely a multi meter
@CrossCarbon There's definitely good static irons out there, but then you're stuck with that one temp, esp if op want's to "get into" electronics he should get one that allows adjustments - some components might get damaged by too hot temps, and it's also alot easier to work with controlled melts instead of going all balls in instantly, also helps preventing cold joints esp with lead-free solders. And as @Skelterz said squid arms or whatever you call them are defo better, just something that helps precision is a must.
Flux makes life easy, also a desoldering pump, cheap but effective, and some desoldering wire, expensive but a good last resort option when everything is screwed up lol A decent variable control soldering station is about 6-7 EUR nowadays, they make really decent ones in China. The most important feature is a flexible wire, because a stiff wire between soldering iron and station is awful. If you're in the EU, you have to use leadfree soldering material, and you will destroy stuff because the temperatures are always high. No need to go invest in expensive super precise variable temperature stations, because they're designed for anything but RoHS compliant soldering. Better get a decent cheap station with a bit of power, if you fry it, just get a new one for 7 EUR, it's cheaper than a replacement stylus for a premium brand station, and you can get decent French or German made styli for not too much money that fit on the cheap Chinese irons so that you get a premium soldering experience from a very cheap soldering station. In the EU, because of RoHS, you just have to factor in the extra cost of destruction of parts, so spending less on a soldering station is usually a safe idea budget wise. The extra cost of destruction because of RoHS is really high. In fact, I use new old stock lead solder for prototyping because RoHS compliant solder is just too bloody expensive, it really make a lot of difference. Of course you can't sell anything if it's not RoHS compliant, so you can only use leaded solder for prototyping.
First tip is to not buy a garbage soldering iron. Don't feel like you need to spend $100+ on an iron if you're just starting out, but I also wouldn't start out with a $5 one. This is what I'm currently using and I am quite happy with it. It's not the best thing out there but it's cheap. If the tip goes bad then new ones are about $5-10.
Next I would highly recommend getting a tub of flux. It is often the difference between soldering being a nightmare and a joy.
I have a 1lb tub of this stuff and have been using it without issue. It's not made for electronics soldering but I've been to lazy to buy anything else thus far.
Third, I highly recommend getting a soldering iron tip cleaner. If you use it regularly it will keep your tip in good condition and keep it from getting corroded and ruined. It is 100% required IMHO.
Next we have solder types. As @Zoltan pointed out, some places don't allow you to use anything but lead free solder for certain applications. If you're only prototyping then it shouldn't matter but keep that in mind. I personally use leaded solder because it's a lot easier to work with. I highly recommend staying away from silver solder as it corrodes and turns to shit within seconds, making it virtually impossible to work with as a beginner. I personally have some old rolls of Radioshack 60/40 lead solder lying around that I use. Solder thickness is also important. This depends on what you intend to solder. for medium sized electronics I would recommend 0.8 - 1mm(0.03~") solder. Much thinner and you need really long pieces of it and much larger and it becomes impossible to work on small welds.
Lastly I would recommend some decent wire cutters and strippers. Mine are the cheapest crap I could find on Aliexpress and I have no shame. I have replaced my flush cutters a few times now but that's the price you pay for buying $2 cutters.
Other miscellaneous things I would get are shrink tube, wire tape and a mini butane torch.
As far as precautions go, don't solder in a closed space with no airflow unless you like lead poisoning. You should be fine if you do it in a bigger room with decent ventilation for small amounts of soldering. Otherwise I would get a fume extractor. Basic point is, don't breath the fumes.
Make sure your work area is clear. You will inevitably touch something with your heated iron that you didn't intend to. Make sure it's not something important or highly flammable.
You are going to burn yourself. It's not really a question. Just be careful and conscious of your irons location, how much pressure you're putting on things and where the iron might go if it slips so you don't burn yourself too badly. Also on that note, if the solder takes force to melt then your iron is too cold.
If you're working with large amounts of solder you need to be especially conscious of where it will go if it drips off of the thing you're working on. It's best to stand while you're working on things like this, that way the solder will drip off of you/your clothes and onto the floor without causing too much damage. This is why it is also important to wear shoes. If you are sitting while working with large amounts of solder then you have to be careful of what the solder will drip onto. Have a surface that will catch the solder but won't let it bead and roll around. Heavy wood should do the trick as it will be hard to ignite but will allow the solder to stick and not roll across the table and off into your crotch.
I think that about covers my general recommendations. Soldering is a lot of fun to get into if you have the right tools. Just be careful not to burn yourself.
From the OP it seems like you're on the audio side. I'd consider practicing and then working on point to point wiring ( like guitar pots) and then moving on to boards. There are lots of books and kits to make things like class A or AB tube amps and the like that are good practice and practical to start off with. Solder your own distortion pedal kits, etc...
I would have added that except I almost never use it. I usually am working on something small enough that I can use a wire. That or I use a pump. It's not really essential IMHO.
On that toppic however, Gootwick is spoken highly of. I like to rub the wick I'm using in flux to help it pick up solder.
For whatever reason I have never been able to get solder wick to actually work. I have no idea why. I've even looked up videos on how to use it properly and still nothing.
@Gwenc9998 Pretty much everything has already been said, but I'll reiterate.
Watch some videos on soldering. EEVblog and bigclivedotcom are my go-to channels for advice like that.
Helping Hands, an Octopus holder thing, or a Panavise will make soldering so much easier.
Adjustable soldering irons are nice if you are working with different types of solder and/or different materials being soldered. Stations with a stand and space for a sponge or other tip cleaner also makes life easy (and safer).
Flux will ensure better everything in regards to soldering.
You'll want tweezers and flush cutters at a minimum IMO. Unless you're working with sensitive ICs you won't really need ESD safe tools. Solder wick or a solder sucker if you bugger anything.
Hookup wire, heatshrink, and wire strippers if you are working with wires or panel mount stuff
As for types of solder... Either 60/40 lead stuff for simplicity or something like SAC305 if you need lead-free solder (i.e. RoHS compliance). 0.032" to 0.048" solder I find is good for most through-hole stuff. Go larger for heavier wire or large surfaces, go smaller for SMT stuff.
Buy good equipment at first. I have wasted good money on junk soldering tools and learned the hard way.
Something I keep in mind is that the two workpieces you are joining and the solder all need to come to a same high temperature, so you need the solder to "wet" the bits you are joining to get good thermal contact, if the solder is balling up its not getting the workpieces hot and you will get bad joints I'm talking about through hole soldering but expect surface mount is similar.
You want to bridge the iron solder and workpieces altogether. you do not want to add heat for a long time, just long enough to form the joint. as soon as the joint wets and runs your done, you do not want to cook the joint as it will kill parts at worst and could make damage that fails later on if you are heavy handed with the heat. Parts to solder need to be clean.
it really is a bit of an art but you will soon get it if you practice. Practice on some cheep parts,
I was engaged in a sublime, but a little in a specific field, I do cosplay and sometimes I have to figure out how to craft some high-tech elements that should shine. The last thing I did was the staff of the Angel from the overwatch, it was hard - there, in addition to the light, was also a drive for it to opened\to close at the touch of a button on the handle. If someone is interested - I can share my little experience in this field.
What about the necessary tools - you’ve already been advised everything that is really necessary, I can only add on my own - try to properly and reasonably arrange a workplace when sitting in one place you can reach everything you need with your hand. I did it by hanging everything around the table on the hooks. And be sure to provide enough light - I have problems with eyesight so I know what I’m talking about. Well, the last is a magnifying glass. If you work with small things, they will be useful to you. In the staff I talked about I had to use very small chips and soldering them was quite difficult.
Concerning the soldering iron, you have already advised a lot of good things - I can only recommend reading this article about choosing soldering irons and what should be paid attention to. There also some of them a listed with comparisons of different manufacturers and models. https://www.bestadvisers.co.uk/soldering-iron
Your input is greatly appreciated, but please allow me to direct you to this post. All new users please read this post Thank you for your understanding.
