http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Cdog3773/saved/3CQL i plan on getting a 780/780ti and or 800 series card when they come out
was wondering if i could get better parts for that general dollar range.
I plan on gaming on very high/ultra at 60+fps at 1080, and maybe in the future 1440
if you are going for a high end system then yes those parts are good.
is there any difference between the 4820k and 4770k? they're about the same price and the 4820k appears to be better, whats the deal with that?
You could do a little better on the case, styling asides do you really plan on lifting the thing with one hand because fully loaded that your PC will weigh over at least 16kg or more and I doubt you need fans on your hard drives, they are just going to get noisy as time goes on and either have to be replaced or you'll just switch them off.
You also don't need a 750watt PSU, no harm to have it and will come in very handy if you go for a crossfire / SLi upgrade but not necessary for an i7 and a single GPU.
hey thanks for the info, do you have any suggestions when it comes to a psu and case?
PSU for single GPU : XFX 550W, Seasonic S12II 620W
If you want modular, you could get RM550/650 or XFX 650 modular version or Seasonic M12II
Or a Seasonic X650 if you can find one at a decent price.
Its a socket 2011 part, quad channel memory and generally its a bit more for workstation scenarios, motherboards are also more expensive.
Its probably faster than but not necessarily leagues ahead in every way especially for gaming compared to a 4770k.
hey, i noticed that it was 80+ bronze, isnt it better to get gold? or is there a difference at all
oops, i meant the SeaSonic S12II 620
and i was also wondering how much draw slight overclock would take and if it would be better to have some more headroom when it comes to power there
a quailty 550w would suffice but a 600+ will definitely be fine for a single GPU. It has already headroom even with a quailty 550w
80+ bronze is considered as preferred(as minimum) as it can show the quality of the components in the PSU. Gold is better especially in areas where electricity is expensive but you can't really go wrong with most 80+bronze
550 or 650 watts is more than enough to overclock the cpu and gpu with a good amount of headroom. Also the 4820k is slower than the 4770k. The 4820k is clocked higher but that doesn't mean its faster because the processing architecture is less efficient. The 4770k vs 4820k, the 4770k will be faster if the 4820k was overclocked and the 4770k was at stock. The architecture on the 4820k is really out of date and is being revised with the new X99 platform and processors that will have an updated architecture and features.
What do you want from the case Stylish and functional? Sleek and quiet? or very well ventilated?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147158 Big ass fan on the side panel, appears to have great cooling performance http://www.anandtech.com/show/4648/rosewill-thor-v2-the-god-of-cooling-and-silence/5 and the price seems to be fairly good for a case like this. If you look at the "Assembling the Rosewill Thor v2" page of the AnandTech review you can see the enormous size of the case. I used to own an E-ATX case back in the Athlon64 days and you'll never have an easier time routing cables.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/bitfenix-shinobi-enermax-ostrog-gt-rosewill-r5-zalman-ms800,3501-9.html Zalman ms800 looks quite good, I like the tension bar for supporting large GPUs and how they get around the cramped HDD space by having HDD's insert from the front.
Those are two cases if I had to chose I'd seriously consider but you have to ask yourself what do you want on your desk / in your bedroom and what features do you want like cable and HDD management, PSU placement, clearance at the top, bottom and front of the motherboard, GPU clearance how many fans you can mount on the chassis. I've got a CM 690 II http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower-cm690-series/cm-690-ii-ver-2/ it comes in a USB3 version, has a very handy GPU tension assistant mount, easy HDD access and a SATA mount on top for quick docking and removing of SATA hard drives, the internal lights are shit but there's a button to turn them off, it comes with 3 fans (the one at the front has the lights in it) preinstalled all of which I'd recommend replacing with quieter versions, 120mm on the back, one 140mm on the top in a duel 120/140mm mount (with space for a second) and a 120mm in the front, PSU position means my 8pin CPU power cable goes over top of the GPU but thats just my board and PSU being meant for the older top mounted configuration rather than an actual problem with the case.
Any reputable brand PSU at 600-650watt or more will be more than enough for whatever single GPU and CPU combination you want asides from some crazy FX9000 stuff and dual socket workstation boards where you might get close to 75% of the PSU's capacity. As I said earlier its absolutely no harm to go with the 750watt you selected you'll just pay a little more of an upfront cost than you need, your power bill will NOT be any higher because of this. The only thing I'd say you should pay special attention to is the cable lengths, there is nothing worse than having a poor cable layout because you're an inch or so short of keeping things tidy.
thanks for even more info, that thor v2 looks great. i think ill stick with that and the 750W, not too concerned about saving 30 bucks. what about the RAM mobo and cooler, would you change any of those?
Cooler will work out great, the ram will be great for anything you throw at it for the next couple years but remember with the consumer / enthusiast transition to DDR4 in about 1-2 years time you may face a very steep bill trying to get four 8GB DDR3 sticks because the price will continue rising from now until demand begins to dry up so if youre considering anything like a later 32GB upgrade maybe a pair of two 8GB ram sticks will work out a fraction cheaper and give you room for a later upgrade, just a thought so don't read too much into it because by the time you'd need (that's require not prefer) more than 16GB for a game you'd probably be replacing everything anyway.
The motherboard is a typical Asus, jam packed with features and what not. Can't fault top end Asus boards really, there may be better value boards out there but Asus build their top end stuff like a brick shit house.
Try to work a nice shiny new SSD for Windows into your upgrade, it makes a massive difference to general windows use and load times, doesn't do much for your frames per second but you'll really see the difference and windows will be several times more responsive.
thanks man, what ssd's would you reccomend?
At this stage they are all pretty good, much faster than a mechanical drive and about as reliable so you won't go wrong with anything released in the last 1-2 years.
Oh and don't let anyone tell you the performance degrades to unusable levels after a lot of use, the performance drops are about 5% over a years use and some of that can be restored by reformatting correctly.
I hear the Samsung 800 line has been well reviewed but expensive and remember its by no means required for a gaming PC (just recommended) and best of all when the price comes down for the 256GB models you can spring for one in a years time and get a nice general use upgrade.