Motherboard: ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming (WiFi)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
Cooler (old) : EK 240mm AIO Cooler, D-RGB All-in-One CPU Cooler
Cooler (new) : CORSAIR - iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX CPU Cooler
Power: Corsair CX750F RGB, 750 Watt, 80 PLUS Bronze
RAM: G.Skill , F4-3600C16D-32GVKC RipJaws 5 Series Noir 32 Go (2 x 16 Go) DDR4 3600 MHz CL16 (2 of these)
Tower: Corsair iCUE 4000X RGB Mid-Tower ATX PC Case
Motherboard: ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming (WiFi)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
Cooler (old) : EK 240mm AIO Cooler, D-RGB All-in-One CPU Cooler
Cooler (new) : CORSAIR - iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX CPU Cooler
Power: Corsair CX750F RGB, 750 Watt, 80 PLUS Bronze
RAM: G.Skill , F4-3600C16D-32GVKC RipJaws 5 Series Noir 32 Go (2 x 16 Go) DDR4 3600 MHz CL16 (2 of these)
Tower: Corsair iCUE 4000X RGB Mid-Tower ATX PC Case
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 XC Gaming, 12G-P5-3657-KR, 12GB GDDR6, Dual-Fan, Metal Backplate
I started with an overheating CPU. It would boot to the bios, quickly heat up, and shut off. I checked the AIO speed in the bios and it said N/A. I was able to get to the bios and update it. It crashed once during the update but I was able to install an updated bios. I still had the overheating problem but was able to boot into the bios. I figured I had a bad pump for the cooler.
Got a new cooler (CORSAIR) and installed it. Now the motherboard has a solid yellow light (DRAM issues) and will not boot to bios. Before, the lights would cycle and I would get into the bios. The cooler fans start up slowly, they shut off, and then speed up to what seems to be a decent speed.
When it was in the case:
I have tried only using one stick of RAM in multiple slots.
I have tried resetting the CMOS without the battery.
Without the hard drive.
Out of the case:
I decided to take the MOBO out of the case and completely start all over (reseated CPU, all cables, RAM, etc) Still stops on the yellow light .
No video card.
I have tried resetting the CMOS without the battery.
I was able to use the bios flashback button and it worked just like it said in the manual. Powered on and nothing. Not sure if updates it from the USB but if it did, it is now Bios Version 2604
I also tried a stick of RAM that was working in another computer. Still no boot.
I also noticed that with my old cooler, I only plugged in the 8 pin connector. Then I added the 4 pin. Both configurations were able to boot to bios (8 and 8+4). When i took it out and set it up on the box, I only had the 8 pin and I got a red light which indicated I didn’t have enough power for the MOBO. I added the 4 (8+4) and that light went off but then the yellow light came on.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 XC Gaming, 12G-P5-3657-KR, 12GB GDDR6, Dual-Fan, Metal Backplate
I started with an overheating CPU. It would boot to the bios, quickly heat up, and shut off. I checked the AIO speed in the bios and it said N/A. I was able to get to the bios and update it. It crashed once during the update but I was able to install an updated bios. I still had the overheating problem but was able to boot into the bios. I figured I had a bad pump for the cooler.
Got a new cooler (CORSAIR) and installed it. Now the motherboard has a solid yellow light and will not boot to bios. Before, the lights would cycle and I would get into the bios. The cooler fans start up slowly, they shut off, and then speed up to what seems to be a decent speed.
When it was in the case:
I have tried only using one stick of RAM in multiple slots.
I have tried resetting the CMOS without the battery.
Without the hard drive.
Out of the case:
I decided to take the MOBO out of the case and completely start all over (reseated CPU, all cables, RAM, etc) Still stops on the yellow light .
No video card.
I have tried resetting the CMOS without the battery.
I was able to use the bios flashback button and it worked just like it said in the manual. Powered on and nothing. Not sure if updates it from the USB but if it did, it is now Bios Version 2604
I also tried a stick of RAM that was working in another computer. Still no boot.
I also noticed that with my old cooler, I only plugged in the 8 pin connector. Then I added the 4 pin. Both configurations were able to boot to bios (8 and 8+4). When i took it out and set it up on the box, I only had the 8 pin and I got a red light which indicated I didn’t have enough power for the MOBO. I added the 4 (8+4) and that light went off but then the yellow light came on.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.