Replacement key switches on a Corsair K68 (Cherry MX Blue)

I have been having some issues with double presses on some of the keys. The quick fix of using rubbing alcohol in the switches seemed to resolve the issue for one of the keys. I have yet to open up the key switches and have a look but wanted to source some replacement switches if possible as the issue seems to be happening to more keys. Just last night I saw one of the keys stuck in down position and not returning. After a couple presses it eventually returned to the up position. I have been looking at replacements from amazon but they seem to have mixed reviews. Anyone have any experience with these replacements?

Honestly I am no keyboard aficionado and only ended up with this keyboard a couple years back as Corsair sold these on amazon as “new” for 50US when it was actually corsair factory refurbished. After the first set of reviews came out reflecting this, it was instantly de listed. I believe that the cherry MX blue version was only for the Europe market at the time so it was kind of strange to see it sold on amazon US. Initially it only had problems with the back light not working on certain keys but as I don’t use the back light it was a none issue. Now that more keys are giving issues I was actually considering going back to a m…me…membrane. lol I still want to attempt to repair this before making any decisions.

You will need a soldering iron and a desoldering pump. As for switches you can check what’s in it, probably cherry, by pulling a cap off an reading the name on the switch. I don’t really know why someone would have issues with new switches.

You can however go with whatever switch matches you wants, another manufacturers blues. Or if you really want to be adventurous, desolder all of them and the put entirely different switches in.

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My previous keyboard was a Rosewill RK6000 so I am accustomed to de-soldering switches :joy: I believe that had Alps clone switches. I use to have to occasionally open up the switches as the springs would become misaligned. I would then use some rubber grease to help center them…that keyboard was a real POS. I would assume those were akin to cherry MX reds but honestly not sure. I had a hard time typing on that as the slightest touch would register as a press and my hands would hurt after a while.

I was actually considering to replace with browns as from what I read they are supposed to be “quieter”. Unfortunately there are no shops where I live at to go and test first hand all these different types of switches so I can only go based on information found online and it seems like browns would be my preference. I do like the tactile feel of the cherry MX blues but the clicky clack, while satisfying can also be annoying at times. While they are supposed to be quieter of the bunch they all sound loud to me when my only reference is a youtube sound test video.

Browns would be quieter than blues in that there is no click from the switch half way through the travel. Odd that you mention it as red brown and blue switches are all similar softness just with different feeling and sound. I get what you mean about the reds though, very easy to press. Browns would also be easy to press but with a slight tactile bump in the travel, not a lot but enough to know you have moved some distance. They can and will still make noise if you bottom out the switch from the cap hitting the switch top and they all make noise on the trutrn as the switches stem hit the inside of the top of the switch. Only silenced switches which have some rubber built into the stem internally are quiet on both end of travel by default. You can also get o-rings which quieten the down press but not the return. A video should show you what that sounds like too compared to the standard.

I like the much stronger tactile bump from the likes of the MX Clear and its many many clones and recreations, like the Zealio and internally silenced zilent from Zeal PC (expensive) and recently the different tactile feel from the Gazzew U4 Boba, where the bump is round rather than sharp and starts right at the start of travel, sometime related to the tactile feel of membrane rubberdomes.

Touch is unfortunately something though that cannot be described in text accurately and you have to try for yourself. I understand the frustration of not having one to try yourself. I ended up getting a Switch Tester, which was about $20 for something with 8 different switches when I got it which I feel is quite a bit, but does let you feel a range of standard switches. There are much more comprehensive ones out with up to 63 different switches to compare which work out better value but are also more expensive too.

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I think for now I may just buy a 10 pack of blues to replace the keys that are having issues and also a pack of browns. Maybe use the brown to replace a couple of the keys so I can get an idea of the feel.

I mistyped a lot with the RK6000 as those keys seemed to have lighter actuation force so based on this I assumed I would be better off with keys of a higher actuation force. Thankfully I don’t mistype with the cherry MX blues. The alps clone may have been more akin to cherry blues than reds from what I had previously mentioned. They were tactile but with very light actuation like a red maybe. Unfortunately I never found specs on those.

Really and truly, the sound of the blues is only an issue when I am using a headset to talk to someone. I only begin to notice the noise when the person on the other end says that the keyboard is real loud. The o-ring seems like a cheap fix I can try out.

I was looking at the clears but I am not sure if the actuation force may be too much. I do bottom out when typing so this may be better suited to me but I can’t really tell unless I try it. I did see some decent package deals for Kaihua clears on amazon, 70 pack for 45US. This is another option I am considering.

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Yeah I am very bias toward heavy switches, like I buy Clear or the counter parts and then replace the springs with heavier ones. Though I can and do still occasionally type on reds just fine, it just irritates me a little after a while.

I flipped the keyboard upside down when overlooking how to open it and realized that the double presses have stopped well at least for now. Most likely debris stuck in the keys got jostled around. Will still purchase replacement keys just in case.

I thought that I may have been able to do something with the RK6000 and get something similar to the cherry clears only to find out that it is not really possible to get Alps switches anymore. The biggest problem with the current alp switches on the RK6000 are they wobble like crazy. Upon further inspections it seems that the wobble actually seems to come from the stem itself so I don’t think I would be able to remedy that.

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I am 99% sure that the RK6000 does not use Alps switches, they should just be MX switches.

As for wobbling that is just the switches like you have found one, some are better than others.

Not sure on your keyboard, but my Amazon RedDragon mechanical keyboard even shipped with a key switch puller tool (they’re user replaceable). (In addition to the keycap puller tool).

It was also like $60 Australian, I’m pretty impressed :smiley:

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I see most of the reviews referring to it as alps clones and visually it looks like alps with a blue stem. (Rosewill's Striker RK-6000 mechanical keyboard reviewed - The Tech Report)

If the physical contact setup of the clones are the same as the cherrys then that would be a bonus although that would probably require new key caps to fit the cherry stem which may probably be more trouble than it’s worth.

Oh wow okay they really are! Huh sorry about that I had done a search and found blue switch, which is usually cherry terminology.

You can get replacement switches for those too. Matias make them in a few varieties, I got some QuietClick ones recently and like them, though they don’t click at all really, at least not when compared to an MX blue.

The contacts are different unfortunately. And yes getting caps for Alps switches is difficult enough. They exist but not nearly with the ease and variety or MX caps.

Interesting, I think I may look into the matias switches as the price isn’t bad for the quantity they offer.

I was trying to remember the ALPS keys that are relatively common and easy to get. Its Tai Hao, they make an ABS set which are okay, maybe not super quality but they are different and fine. Always nice to have options. I am sure there are more out there too.

Yep, sometime after I found a post on reddit where it was claimed that the switches used on the RK6000 were indeed Tai Hao. I was still considering the Matias quiet click switches as they seemed to be a drop in replacement. Just considering the cost, 50 USD for the switches, 10 USD for stabilizer and hook set, 10 USD for shipping to my skybox then import, duties and freight charges to get it into country kind of deters me from doing it. It may be better spent purchasing a new keyboard although not necessary at the moment. There also seems to be no keyboards under the 100 US price point with cherry MX clear switches.

I do rather the old school look and fonts of the RK6000 to the Corsair although it did have a funky layout especially with the backspace and enter key. When looking at the value of keyboards now I do regret stupidly dumping my old buckling spring keyboard back in the day for a Xtech membrane keyboard :roll_eyes:

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best way to clean your switches is with a compressed air can with the nozzle removed. you just squirt it into the depressed key. enough to flood it, then when it evaporating press the key a few times. you should see crystals freezing and this will loosen the debris.
then blast it again to clear that…
just a quick second blast. should do it.

if that doesnt completely cure it. then there’s 1 more option… go colder.

WARNING BUTANE IS HIGHTLY FLAMABLE! SO EXTREME CAUTION! is advised and i just making the suggestion its on you if shit goes south.
so if you do this, do it outside near no flames or cigarettes vapes or anything else that sparks.

ive used butane gas… aka ligher gas.

it freezes at a lower temp so will remove even the most stubborn grease/oil/skin/hair that get in the switches. just apply it the same way as i said with the air.
but FFS BE CAREFUL!.

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