My headphones that I did a patch job on broke again. The repair I did failed to last. Admittedly it was a ghetto patch but I was having trouble getting it to work as it was.
I could just replace the headphones but Id rather not replace perfectly fine headphones that the only issue is the cable.
I cant afford to spend much on the repair but I can pay for shipping both ways. Ill include a return shipping label. All you would have to do is return it in the original box.
I am looking to have the cable replaced with a 3.5mm either male or female jack near the earcup effectively turning them into a quick-connect so that I can attach different length cables to them as well as replace the cable should it break. Also it will help protect the headphones should I trip over the cable.
Here are some photos I have taken of my Samson SR-850s.
You’re gonna pay more in shipping than what the headphones cost new, if you’ve got the supplies go for it yourself but expect to be shelling out for new headphones
You can by a cheap solding iron, solder, a female end cable and a male to male cable for less than shipping.
I know how you feel but I would say take a proper attempt at a repair. Worst case, you have functional tools and you now have to buy a new set 9f headphones.
It’ll be a pain in the neck to work on the cable so close to the headphones, but it can be done. Add heatshrink to that list. And in case we could possibly persuade you to take another go at it, what went wrong with your first attempt? One of us might be able to give some advice.
What I’d do is take the cup apart and solder the remaining cable onto the contact points inside it, tie a knot to take the strain and screw the cup back together. That’s what the manufacturers do.
No they don’t. Or at least the one I have doesn’t. It will require soldering, which is fine. I know how to do that. I just don’t know what type of cable exactly to get, and how to solder on said cable (caveats).
It should just twist to the left and pull out of the headphones. If not you can just buy a 3.5mm extension cable and cut one of the ends off and that should work.
Well, it all started when the 3.5mm male end snapped in half. So, I was like…damn. All because I tripped over the 10 foot cord. I figured, why not fix it and make it safer? Move the jack to the earcup and make it a quick-connect so that If it gets caught on something, it can disconnect without A) Ripping the headphones off my head and B) destroying the headphones or cables.
As to what failed from my first attempt, the channels started flipflopping and then when I started to unwind the electrical tape I had wrapped it with (ghetto wrap - who has a heat gun?) the solder joints just came free like FREE WILLY!!!
Also, for those who say it would cost me more in shipping to the CONUS…these cans run ~50-70 dollars new. Flatrate shipping through USPS is dirt cheap and they are lightweight. I kinda doubt it would cost more to ship than to buy new (which would defeat the purpose of saving perfectly good cans that just have a cabling issue).
Well idk what to tell you it says on the sennheiser site that its removable. Have you tried to remove it?
This is the same model you have and you can see you just twist it left with a bit of force and then it will pull out https://youtu.be/TQROYQkJWYw?t=30
The thin leads for headphones can get that thin because the wires are coated with a super thin film for insulation, so as to save space. Thick insulation is not really needed when a minimal amount of volts run through them. However, this film is a pain when soldering. Use solder acid to wipe the ends before soldering, or burn it off with a butane lighter (don’t use candle lights, they expel a lot of sod, especially the cheap ones) however, certain places, like contact points can be tricky to burn, so use soldering acid on a q-tip. Also, apply plenty Flux, even if it is added to your soldering material, it is often not enough in my experience. This should provide the best conditions for your solder job to hold.
Edit: Actually, don’t burn the wires clean. Most if not all wires like that you’ll come across is copper-aluminium-clad, which will burn away. Only burn if it’s pure copper.
I’m so happy, I haven’t been able to listen to these in almost 2 years!