QNIX QN2710 review, overclock and impression

Alright, so first thing first, i picked up my qnix panel off of amazon after watching Logan's review of his X-Star.  Now i ended up buying the QNIX over the X-Star mainly because in the OCN forums, majority of people generally had more luck overclocking the QNIX over the X-Star.  This is mostly luck so i just went with the bigger odds.  I ordered my monitor from ebay through this seller: I will link everything during my post at the bottom so if you feel interested in making a purchase and doing the whole overclocking bit.

Now, i did pick this specific seller mainly because he was doing express shipping, which means 3-7 days.  Most sellers gave up to a month.  The added bonus was that this seller did a physical inspection for quality and gave a 1 year warranty and he guaranteed a pixel perfect monitor.  He even sent images for tests to make sure that i didnt have any bad pixels or even any major backlight bleed.  So the deal to me sounded almost perfect so i couldn't say no for $20 extra.

I got the package today about 5 hours ago.  I opened it up and fired it up.  I encountered an issue installing the drivers for the monitor because they are required to unlock the monitor to past 60hz.  I had to go into diagnostics mode and tell windows 8 to boot allowing drivers without certifications because windows will not see it and won't install it.  Once drivers installed, i went on my way.

I did do some tests first for frame skipping, dead pixel test, and so forth to make sure everything at stock was functional and working solid.  unlock the pixel clocker for my nvidia card.  After all this i now went for overclocking.  Most people in the forum say that 96hz is guaranteed on this monitor, so i started right off the bat with 120hz.  The monitor took it like a champ, no artifacts or anything initially showing.  So then i went to test the monitor for frame skipping, bleeding, ghosting, and dead pixel tests.  As far as i can see, everything was perfect, not one single issue at all.  Feels like i may have won the monitor lottery with this one.

Now...i felt a little brave, so i wanted to see how far i could go, so i pushed it to 144hz.  I was expecting this to fail miserably.  As a matter of fact, it took it like a champ.  Ran perfect and ran it through the same tests.  I'm really surprised how well built this monitor and video control board are.

Let's talk about what i think of this monitor.  Build quality i'm pretty sure everyone is aware may not be the best.  The bezel doesn't actually go flesh to the screen and has some slight bulging.  IMO it's not a big deal AT ALL because when you have the screen lit up and all, you won't notice a single thing.  The major issue for me was that i own a VESA dual monitor mount and it was a bit of a pain to remove the stand from the back.  I had to open the entire thing up and remove the screen from the frame.  It's actually seated quite poorly where its screwed on two brackets which aren't even glued or sealed onto the frame.  To remove the stand required to remove two screwed which are placed onto two plates and which hold the stand up. Once removed it was quite a pain to reassemble the monitor because of how poorly it was seated.  After about 5 minutes of tinkering and getting the brackets back in place, everything clicked real easily.  The monitor actually is lighter than most 27" because their boards aren't as filled up as more complex monitors.  I think the monitor weights about 12lb, so even a dual 24" mount which is what i used had no problem.  It is a little off balance but compared to its horrible stand, this is MILES BETTER.

Gaming i came across a little issue with ghosting since this monitor is a 6ms response time.  I found some workarounds to strobe the panel with strobelight.  The eye won't see the strobing because it will at 120hz.  This actually is a nice little program because you can get CRT quality refresh which means the ghosting is practically non existent.  For any twitch gamers, this is the holy grail!

After everything was set up, i personally feel that i made a great purchase considering i was on the fence with this and the ASUS PB278Q which is an amazing monitor with all the bells and whistles and straight out of the box perfect.  I got very lucky with my purchase considering that i had a flawless monitor running 120hz with no problem and without a single defect.  The color is vibrant but not over-saturated.  There really is no OSD settings so all you can do is adjust brightness and volume and that's it.  IMO i'm good with that because i personally believe that sRGB is the most color accurate preset anyways, i definitely prefer over ASUS Splendid bulls**t with all the color inaccuracies..  At the end, color preference is a matter of opinion, i just prefer realistic color portrait, many prefer exaggeration.


OCN Korean Monitor Club Thread has all the drivers and procedures you need to know about installing the driver, overclocking and dialing in the pixel timings to get a stable monitor overclock.  I had great luck with everything

Disclaimer: If you are going to do this for 24/7 build, make sure not to upgrade your drivers until you revert to stock settings for the monitor.  You will get weird artifacting.  Once updated, then you can reinstall the pixel clock patcher and then dial the clock back to your OC setting.  The pixel clocker unlocks the limits so that it allows to drive proper power to the dvi cable.  Hopefully if you are feeling like getting a korean monitor this may help for your decision making and help you overclock if you desire to get the best possible experience with a 1440p monitor.

I hope you guys enjoyed my post! Thanks guys!

Great review! Now I want to buy this thing :D

Very, very nice, dude! =) I just ordered an X-Star DP2710 (Matte, Pixel Perfect) screen on Monday and it just arrived to replace my old TN-panel fluorescent-backlit 1280x1024 monstrosity! (The backlight was failing on it, horribly.)

So now I have this epic replacement. I got my monitor to overclock up to 100Hz no problem, and at about 108Hz I start running into issues with minor color artifacts, and at 113Hz and beyond I start getting weird green lines. (I also bought an epic replacement DVI cable and a nice replacement PSU cable for my monitor. I'm hoping the higher AWG DVI cable might be prone to less interference, and might overclock a bit better.)

I just used some of those utilities you mentioned, like the NVidia Clock Patcher, and it didn't seem to help all that much (yet).

No dead pixels thus far, either. There's a lot of blur on my monitor at 96Hz, but at 60Hz it's still bearable. Matte coating is epic, though. No glare from my window makes me a happy dude. =3

Got mine from dream-seller on eBay. =)

I just have one question, @mafisometal : and that's how you got the workaround for strobelight to work on a non-lightboost monitor? Could you explain how you got it working? (I couldn't find it after several minutes of googling and checking the forum threads.)

So lightboost is actually a 3d monitor trick, but when any monitor hits 120hz, it actually strobes because of how rapid the monitor has to recreate frames.  This monitor is generally not a lightboost monitor but works on the same principle.  IPS/PLS monitors can do something similar to lightboost because all modern monitors use similar principle in refresh. Lightboost is essentially a secondary board for 3D and 120hz purpose so it can split it to 2 60hz subsequent frames to give a dual panel feel.

i forgot to post this link as well, but there's an override method to tell the OS that your monitor is capable of lightboost.  Though since the hardware isn't entirely dedicated like a lightboost monitor, you have to change the product id so that it believes it's a 3d monitor.  i would really first of all make sure your monitor can do 120hz because the software is intended for that specific refresh rate.  I would probably leave out a caution because my monitor was able to hit 144hz no problem that i was confident that the strain from the board doing strobelight.


Mine was only able to get to 100Hz, the lowest strobelight setting possible (at the moment). I could get it to 112Hz with no green line artifacts, but with color artifacts. Same at 108Hz as well.

I figured I'd keep it safe at 100Hz because that's a frequency that works with LightBoost and is stable. The question is, what method did you use to make it work? (I tried the EDID method, but I wasn't able to get the monitor to appear as anything other than "DUAL-DVI", and it wouldn't allow it to use Lightstrobe or to activate Stereoscopic 3D. The other methods wouldn't work, and I'm not qualified to disassemble my monitor for hardware changes. The CRU method is not going to work because GeForce Experience is required in the most up-to-date drivers and CRU can't work with GeForce Experience.)

The easy modification method won't work, because it isn't an ASUS or BenQ monitor, same with the second method. So only the 3rd, 4th or 5th would work, and software limits the third while lack of skills limits the 5th.

What method did you use, and how did you get it to work? (I'm using Win7 64-bit Home Premium and Nvidia 337.88 WHQL drivers.)

EDIT: I did fake Windows into thinking my monitor is an ASUS. But the driver isn't fooled as easily right now, so setting up Stereoscopic 3D doesn't show the monitor as being an ASUS, and the Nvidia Control Panel still recognizes my X-Star DP2710 as being "DUAL-DVI" rather than the ASUS model given my the .reg values and the .inf files.

it's fine if it says Dual-DVI, that's just the board but not the device itself. My asus says Ancor Communication which we all know is the manufacturer.  QNIX/X-Star are using a knockoff board so it's going to have a generic name, i wouldn't worry.

Method 4, worked for me, it's not entirely perfect but it does strobe consistently.  Doing this will lose quality in color and you'll probably have to do ur own adjustments because this isn't a TN panel, the settings won't be exactly like they suggest; also don't do vsync, i tried that and i had a pain in the ass trying to fix that, i was getting massive amounts of fragmentation and green lines.  It's a little choppy but if you know how to get consistent frame rates, it should work well.  I did it with CS:GO and i was using fps_max 121 and it worked pretty well for a good solid 60 minutes or so.  Then it started to give the white lines and the back of the monitor got a little hot.  Turned it back to normal and gave it a break, then did the strobelight again and worked fine.

Though since i know this is based for TN panels, i can't guarantee that it will work for you.  I think it'll be based on luck because my monitor had a flawless board which i could do 144hz which is REALLY rare, i believe only a handful on the OCN forum were able to do 144hz.  I left it at 120hz which gave me some headroom to get it to strobe.

I've been having issues with my monitor. I can get 104Hz with no color artifacts. 108Hz gets color artifacts (minor color lines which are odd). 113Hz and I get green lines.

When I tried to install the monitor driver, I had an issue. It gave me alternating full screens of red, blue, green, black and white. (Don't remember the order.)

I'll disable V-Sync, though. (Do you use Nvidia graphics cards? Also, is it still OK to use V-Sync within a game rather than in a driver, or to put a framerate limiter on the game (like in Skyrim using the .ini files) ?

My question is, how did you install the driver to make your monitor be recognized by Windows and the Nvidia driver as being an ASUS? (Could you guide me through it? I tried using the device manager to install the "LightBoost-Monitor-EDID-override.inf" and I've already added the values in the "ForceLightBoostWithoutGlasses.reg" to the registry. When I right-click the .inf file, the install option gives me an error. Doing it manually through the Device Manager causes the alternating full screen color flashing issue I mentioned earlier.

(I did get a much better, thicker, heavier Dual-Link DVI cable this morning, hoping that it was interference in the cable that was causing the issues I had before. Sadly, turns out the cable did nothing to help. At least it's longer, feels nicer and is sturdier.)

i don't think ur monitor is capable of doing that, that's pretty much what my procedure was.  I had a small little flash and then it worked.  I seriously think the reason i was able was because my monitor was able to reach 144hz, so it had headroom for performance.

Alright. Well, I guess I'm just stuck with 1440p@100Hz. Oh well. =)

EDIT: I wonder how many consoles can to 1440@100Hz? Oh yeah, that's right: #PCMasterRace

Double the resolution on watch dogs against XB1!

Unless you're on a nerfed version of Watch_Dogs, like all PC versions have been. I'm pretty sure that now I'm gonna boycott EA and Ubisoft, at least for a few years. Until they stop with the whole DRM and console-limiting nonsense.

Personally, here's how I see it: if you're gaming on PC, you shouldn't be able to run 1440p with all the sliders turned up all the way on a next-gen AAA game running just a GTS 250 from the stone age. A game studio that does this knows nothing of graphics, games, programming or PC users. I think settings should exist for those who want to tinker, and if someone can't run it on max on their setup than they need to pony up for an upgrade and stop whining.

Nerfing PC games to satisfy consoles is just sad, and rather pathetic. It shows a lack of commitment to game developing, to the PC platform and PC gamers as a whole, and it shows the most upfront lack of honesty and integrity that any PC publisher could (legally) demonstrate.

Although I have to say that my GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB is handling everything admirably so far. Starpoint Gemini 2 at 1440p at high? Yes please! 1440p@100Hz? Encore! Now I just need a replacement monitor stand so I can bring my monitor closer to my face, and it'll be amazing! (The arms on my chair and the included stand keep getting in the way.)

Nice review ! I am trying to wait for the asus and see how it compares if they ever launch that container of them to the US!  LOL

Yep , UBISOFT and EA are really looking at some hardcore gaming PC lost sales  from me ! I wish I wouldnt have bought watchdogs but that  will be the last I ever buy from them!